TAST 2014. 36.130. Double lock stitch

The working of this stitch is on Pintangle.
This is also a simple stitch with lots of possibilities. In this piece I did not do much of experiments. An element of a traditional Indian design was chosen to work this stitch.

36.130.double lock stitch1

An outline with whipped and laced buttonhole stitch was also tried on this piece. It was started with buttonhole and straight stitches.

36.130dlockst-1

Straight lines were stitched to work the double lock stitch.

36.130.dlockst-2

The side motif with two versions of double lock stitch worked in variegated perle cotton # 5.

36.130.dlockst-3

Double lock stitch and some textured stitches inside the paisley.

36.130.dlockst-4

Trials of alternating whipping and lacing. The first one on the left was chosen to work this piece.

36.130.sample outline

The final result.

36.130.double lock stitch2

This pattern was not ideal to work variations of double lock stitch. But working on this, helped in experimenting a new way to work this buttonhole stitch outline. The lock stitch was instrumental in bringing out this idea, I suppose.

 

Work In Progress Wednesdays-11

This post motivates me to work on projects that would otherwise would become UFOs. Visit pintangle  to see how others have made progress on their projects.
I am currently working on a tunic, which was completed and has been given to the tailor. The mirrors have helped in taking the attention from the white thread. Initially it was not in the plan to use these bright colours, later felt this tunic would be very dull even with the embroidery and brought out the colours.

11.wipwednesdays-lgreentunic3

The stitch on TAST challenge this week is woven trellis. I had worked this stitch sampler on previous challenge. And yet to start on working on it this week. I was also looking for some leaf stitch other than detached chain on my crazy quilted hussif.
I used this stitch on the seam along with stem stitch with two colours and metallic thread. As Sharon suggested, this polyester thread does not bring out the beauty of the stitch.

11.wipwednesdays-hussif1-seam5

I wanted to work this stitch on feather stitch. Straight stitches were worked on feather stitches.

11.wednesdays-hussif1.fspray5a

Woven trellis stitches were worked on these after that. The flowers are worked with oyster stitch and french knots were added to the base.

11.wipwednesdays-hussif1- fspray5

I have drawn a pattern for embroidery on tunic. It also has mirror worked borders, a simple border to incorporate the mirrors was also drawn this week. Now eager to see what others have been working on this week.

 

Violet zardosi on cream crepe tunic

I like working Indian ethnic embroidery on traditional Indian designs. The motifs are ideal for working zardosi work, chikan work, kantha work, Kashmiri work. I worked zardosi embroidery on this tunic. The pattern-

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic-pattern

Cotton skeins were used to work the embroidery. Stitches worked were, stem, chain and french knots.

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic- embroidery

After attaching the zardosi beads and stones-

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic- zardosi work

Yoke detail on tunic-

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic

I wear a salwar on deep violet [same as the yoke fabric] with this tunic. A synthetic crepe dupatta in violet completes the outfit.
The fabric and print did not require any embroidery. when I was in a mood for some zardosi work, this tunic got hit!

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic

 

Maroon and blue georgette tunic

The colour of this georgette fabric is a mixture of maroon and dark blue. Because of this it looks like violet. But the colour varies under different lights. It  has zari dots all over. I felt, to embellish this tunic, metallic gold was vital. Instead of working with it, the yoke fabric was itself gold colour satin fabric.
 

maroon blue georgette tunic

A simple traditional Indian pattern was drawn for this embroidery.
 

maroon blue georgette tunic-yoke

The yoke pattern-
 

maroon blue georgette tunic-yoke pattern

The sleeves-
 

maroon blue georgette tunic-sleeves

The simple pattern of scallops-
 

maroon blue georgette tunic-sleeve pattern

On reflection, I could have refrained from using the dark pink beads. They are too big for this work with silk threads. They are really popping out of the embroidery. It was done in the last leg, when I was keen to finish the work, rather than search for other suitable embellishments. This tunic being quite festive looking, maybe I can wear a net dupatta [scarf] to subdue the effect.  And I learnt a lesson.

 

Mango colour chiffon tunic-2

The red crepe stole which has very large printed paisleys with decorative borders.

man crepe stole

The neckline was part of the embroidery pattern for the centre. The florals had spaces to work the red stones. Silk threads red metallic threads were used for the embroidery. Cotton skeins were used to attach the stones and zardosi beads.

mantunic-pat

The embroidered yoke-

The embroidery was worked on yellow silk cotton fabric. These embroidered pieces were later attached to the tunic[by the tailor, ofcourse!]. the completed tunic with the stole

mango tunic with stloe

 

Mango colour chiffon tunic-1

I had this crepe stole with traditional Indian design printed all over it. It has many colours, but red was the background colour. It suited well with t-shirts, plain tunics.
Last year I saw this chiffon fabric. It had both orange and yellow shades on it. Because it looks like a well ripened mango, it is often called mango colour. These kind of colour combinations are quite common on silks[kanjeevaram].the most popular are-
Peacock neck[blue/green],tender mango leaf[maroon and green], fenugreek[golden yellow/red],onion[dark pink/cream],berry[nagapazham-violet /brown].
From this point of view, this tunic colour is mango.
A packet of red stones also was waiting to be used. A traditional Indian pattern was drawn for the yoke. A simple border, where these stones could be incorporated was drawn for the sleeves.
The pattern for sleeves-

mantunic-slpat

The embroidery was worked with red silk and metallic threads.

man tunic-sleeves

 

Black and pink yoke-2

After working with the green and golden colour thread, I proceeded with pink thread.
All the flower outlining were in stem stitch with pink thread. For the centre, chain stitches were worked in pink thread.
I don’t have the pictures of the work in progress. Once the embroidery was completed , I started with the beads- the beads used were medium sized round pink beads and oval pink beads. A pink stone was stitched to the centre. The petals were filled with pink zardosi beads.
The yoke detail-

black&pink yoke- detail

The completed yoke-

black &pink yoke-completed

When my nephew saw the yoke like this, he said it looked like a cow[the neckline looked like horns for him!] LOL!

 

Black and pink yoke-1

I had worked on a black yoke , for a pink tussar tunic, which is posted here.
When my new niece saw this , she wanted one like that. So did the same combination for her.
So , Iam just posting the yoke here. I did not take pictures during the WIP stage , though.
She wanted a small yoke, the pattern and the progress of the embroidery-

black & pink yoke-WIP

I started with light gold colour thread and green thread. The stitches used were back stitch, buttonhole stitch, stem stitch and chain stitch.

black&pink yoke WIP detail

Zardosi beads and oval pink beads were added in the next stage. Those will on my next post.

 

Blue and green tunic-3

With this detail the yoke design is complete. The length of the yoke is 18 inches. The neck is not part of the design.

Whenever I work on these type of traditional designs, I generally cover the area with embroidery and embellishments . But for this design, embroidery was worked on the traced lines only. Mirrors were the only addition.
The embroidery was used just to enhance the colours on this tunic.
The last part of the yoke-

blue green tunic closeup-3

I wear a light green mercerized cotton salwar [Indian pants] for this tunic.
The full yoke-

blue and green tunic

I am fond of paisley designs, this pattern has 6 paisleys. This pattern would also work for –kashmiri embroidery,bead work ,kantha work and sequin work.

 

Tunic with brown yoke-4

The last item that was embroidered on this motif pattern is the outlining in back stitch with cream thread. I thought I‘ll outline all the filling stitches in this motif pattern,.
Few curves were also worked in back stitch. Thus the whole motif yoke is completed.

yoke motif -completed

The close up picture of the completed motif-

yoke motif- closeup

Now for the final result-
After completing this, I had gone to India, where I bought a few brocade materials for embellishing tunics. One of the material was in peach colour, since this motif has peach in it, I thought of attaching the brocade to the tunic .
The idea was to stitch the tunic with alternate panels with the tunic fabric, attach a chiffon fabric for the sleeves with brocade border, attach the yoke with the brocade fabric outlining the yoke.
The tailor also had an idea of lining the body part of the tunic,and so with so many layers- lining, tunic fabric , brocade , the yoke, the tunic is very thick and heavy, but the sleeves with the chiffon[without any lining], is kept intact only with the weight of the brocade border. The tunic looks pretty funny, and definitely Iam not laughing!
Lessons- If Iam doing motif patterns for yoke, they have to be arranged in a different manner.
Maximum of only 1 inch outlining allowed with brocade material[ it is too thick, too bright]
The yoke fabric should have been in complimenting colour
The embroidery work and thread colours should have been bold not subtle for this pattern and colour.
The tunic now-

tunic with yoke motif