The ikat fabric was bought at a sale in Chennai. There was an exhibition of woven and embroidered fabrics from Indian states at Valluvar Kottam complex. My sister in law wanted to see the sarees that were on sale. But I bought two ikat fabrics, while she did not buy any. These fabrics were intricately woven and they were expensive, but worth for the work done. This ikat I matched with antique violet handloom fabric with woven stripes.



I had with me this woven border fabric. This was used for the sleeves and front of the tunic.

goikatviolettunic-borders fabric

goikatviolettunic-borders fabric

Traditional Indian motifs were drawn for the embroidery. Surface embroidery stitches- fly, chain, straight, buttonhole, running stitches were used. This picture is of the embroidery detail before working the outlines in white. Cotton skiens were used for this work.



The tunic-

gold ikat violet tunic

gold ikat violet tunic

Detail of the front-



The ikat fabric is finer count than the violet fabric, so it clings a bit, the back is with violet fabric alone

After the yoke pattern was worked with threads, small antique golden beads and red zardosi tubes were stitched on to the yoke. A part of the yoke-


The other part of the yoke after working the zardosi embroidery.


The pictures are not very clear.
The completed yoke, placed on the tunic fabric looks like this-


The sewn tunic with zardosi yoke.


Close up of the tunic.


I have worn this tunic with red salwar[Indian pants]. The block print pattern on this tunic is very rare. It impressed me a lot. it can worn be as saree, shirt, short top and other western dresses also. The fabric was transparent and required lining, for that matter. I find any white based fabric requires lining.
I looked for inspiration from traditional Indian patterns and drew this yoke pattern.

The embroidery details of the yellow yoke on white chanderi tunic. After working with green colour threads, I started with red colour thread. This being the colour of the zardosi beads, the outlines were worked stem stitch and chain stitch in this colour. The central part of the design was worked in satin stitch and straight stitch. The picture is not very clear though,


With the tunic fabric in white, the rest of the design was worked in white thread. The stems were done in white along with other small details.


The zardosi details on my next post.

While shopping for tunic fabrics, I found this white block printed chanderi fabric.


It had small zari border.which is not seen here.. I had some zardosi tubes in red, which I wanted to use on this tunic. With white background, I cannot use white fabric for yoke, light green colour was very minimal on the tunic to be used for yoke, so the decision was to use golden yellow fabric for yoke.
This was a traditional Indian pattern, it is easier to incorporate zardosi on these type of patterns.
I started the work with gold colour silk thread. Satin stitches, straight stitches and chain stitch were done with this thread.


The next colour silk thread was olive green, and the light green was done in cotton skein. Leaf stitch, stem stitch and buttonhole stitch were done with these threads.