I worked on this a few years ago. Even though, the size doesn’t fit , it still hangs in my wardrobe,.
The fabric is mangalagiri handloom cotton in cream with zari border. Golden yellow salwar[Indian pants] completed the set.
The embroidery was worked on a sewn tunic.
I mixed and matched two , three designs to get this embroidery pattern.
All stitches was done in two strands of cotton skeins.
The stitches- chain, stem,buttonhole, herringbone, raised herringbone, chain and stem filling, fly, satin

The centre close up-

cream tunic-1

Close up of the side-

cream tunic-2

The tunic-

cream tunic-3

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After all the stitches were completed on the yoke, I stitched some antique gold seqiuns and beads for embellishing. The picture of the completed yoke and sleeves-

green&yellow kutch- beads

Now for the tunic itself, the tailor had stitched beautifully the yoke and sleeves to the tunic, with the neck pattern . I wanted a deep neck for the back, with a crossed cord made with the green fabric.

green&yeliow kutch- tunic

Whenever other people made comments about the design or embroidery, it was either the tunic was good or the embroidery was good, or else the colour combination was nice.It is very interesting to see how each one’s taste differs.
Very rarely, the tunic, design , embroidery, colour coordination, all together would be a success. This tunic is one of that kind.

This tunic I started a few months ago. The tunic fabric was in cream printed with green, yellow , orange and red colours. I chose a light green fabric for the yoke, sleeves and salwar[Indian pants].
I wanted to do a continous kutch embroidery pattern, and some fillers with other stitches.
The continous patterns in kutch embroidery, is done in one thread. A variegated thread can be used, which will have slightly different effect . When one colour is used , it is sure that, only that colour will dominate the whole pattern. I wanted to study and work this aspect in this tunic piece.
With the green base for yoke, I chose yellow for the kutch work[because that colour will accommodate red and orange for filling patterns]. The other colours were- red,orange, copper orange, medium green, and cream.
The embroidery done on sleeves-

green& yellow kutch- sleeves

I’ll continue with the yoke on my next post.

I had a block printed material in medium beige colour.I also bought a same combination on duppatta too. For this , a maroon tunic was bought and designed, then the tunic was given away, may be, because, it became too tight!
I found this double colour-peach and beige- fabric. This tunic, being the second choice, needed to be simple.
I had some dark brown [wooden]beads. After the tunic was sewn, I did a row of cross stitches in maroon and brown. Then the beads were attached to the space in between. Small straight stitches were worked , spurting away from the beads.

peach tunic with wooden beads

I wore this for some years , then the pants were discarded, the duppatta waited to be made into a tunic!

Actually,This tunic is the last of the series, these pictures were hidden some other place!
I had two dupattas-1. red , block printed in black.2. An ikat weave-in black,red and white combination.
They were bought on two different occasions, couldn’t resist both.
I wore a plain black salwar set, and another red salwar set –to go with the duppatas.
An idea came- to have a white salwar, embellished with embroidery in red on black cloth[ this cloth to be attached to the salwar as yoke and sleeves]
I wanted full sleeves for the tunic[salwar] with 8 inch embroidery, and a small yoke.
One inch border patterns were chosen. Later another idea came, to attach a red fabric in between with black embroidery on it.
Embroidery-kutchwork, herringbone filling , variations of a few line stitches-chain, fly, chained feather, stem.
The pattern for the sleeves was drawn on graph and the pattern for yoke was drawn on blank paper.
The top half of the sleeves-

red kutch on black detail-1

The bottom half-

red kutch on black

The yoke-

redkutch on black-yoke

Wearing full sleeves with embroidery is not ideal for hot cities like Muscat or Chennai, still I try to wear this set as often as possible. Ironically, I don’t wear those duppattas for this set, it is too heavy!. I wear it with black, red or white plain chiffon duppatta!

This is the last one in this series old kutchwork projects.
I had a plain orange Bengal cotton saree with zari border.For this, I co-ordinated with plain green blouse.
Few similar shades of orange , light green and red thread were chosen for the kutchwork embroidery on sleeves.
The pattern was two kutchwork borders intercepted by single row of kutchwork.
A wide motif was done in the centre- a few common motifs added together.
The mirror image of the two borders are added at the bottom.
The whole pattern was drawn on inch graph paper.
Along with kutchwork, rows of chain stitches were also done.

Green& orange kutch- blouse

The top-

green&orange kutch-top

the centre-

green&orange kutch-motif

The bottom-

green&orange kutch- bottom

This was a big project for me,earlier, I just did small motifs are borders- these pieces I don’t have them with me
. The unavailability of kutchwork designs and ignorance of the sources led me to design my own kutchwork patterns. I did not even have similar samples to compare them with.
I am so happy to share with you all these projects . It brought back so many memories-
While designing, transferring,embroidering,sewing[tailor] and wearing them.
After writing so many posts on kutchwork, Iam itching to do kutchwork now!

I had a red south handloom cotton with a yellow border. I asked the tailor to attach the
3-inch thick border in front[horizontally]and the sleeves. This type of tunic design was popular at that time. This colour combination was common on kanjeevaram silk sarees.
The border already had temple[pyramid] and checked pattern .
For the neck, the stitches were herringbone and detached chain.
On the other side of the border, I worked a row of cross stitch and a variation of fly stitch.
Then, for the central yoke-
I chose a diamond kutchwork pattern and repeated it in medium yellow, to form a small border, in between did some small kutchwork motifs in darker yellow and green.
Followed by rows of decorative stitches-
Stem stitch, herringbone, detached chain,chain , buttonhole[ with varying heights]
Small kutchwork in green and dark yellow on the valleys of buttonhole.
Then finishing off with a variation of the diamond kutchwork motif.

yellow kutch on red tunic

The closeup-

yellow kutch on red -closeup

The green thread looks like bluish green in the picture. Choosing colours for this tunic was very easy[ traditional].I wore this for a long time. Since , I don’t want to say I had gained extra weight, let’s declare that , the tunic shrunk after a few years!
I wore a yellow[ border colour] Indian pants for this tunic.