Till 30th September it was festival for ten days in India. Though we live in Oman,  we still follow some of the traditions. The celebrations of the festival of Dussera or Navrathri or Durga puja is different from region to region and culture to culture in India.
We follow the tradition of – Arranging in steps various forms of Gods and Goddesses from Hindu mythology. This is enhanced by daily offerings [food] to Gods and honouring women and children who visit our home during this period, and chanting various slokas – which will give worldly things.
It was hectic for ten days.
Though embroidering was done whenever I could find time it was not much. Taking pictures was also not that prompt. The challenge stitches need to be addressed during this week otherwise, they could pile up. I have an idea of using Roumanian stitch as Indian filling stitch on a pattern for a pouch. That’s how much I have worked on SSS challenge!
I could complete a small project. Square mirrors were stitched on this brown and block printed combo tunic.
The whole tunic
The work on blue jute cotton was completed and ready to go to the tailor.
This another sewn mangalagiri tunic in mustard or fenugreek yellow with copper colour zari border. Small embroidery scattered evenly along the border is the idea for this tunic.
WIPW149- muscopt-1
Hoping to have more progress this week.


The story of this yoke starts with this striped cotton fabric.
Thinking all these colours can be used for embroidery on a cream base, a cream cotton fabric was chosen for the tunic. This cream mangalagiri handloom cotton fabric was given to the tailor for marking the front and sleeves.

And  a simple border design was embroidered on the sleeves.
The pattern for the same.
The embroidery for this mirror work started with green colour skein. The mirror outlines were worked n chain stitch, the curls were worked in stem stitch and the leaves in leaf stitch.
The second stage was to work the orange colour skein. Chain stitches and buttonhole stitches were worked with this thread.
Next in line was the antique violet colour skein. The triangles around the neck were worked in buttonhole stitches and the second mirror outlines were worked in chain stitch.
The last outline around mirrors were worked in polyester gold colour thread.
The diamond shaped mirrors were outlined with variegated polyester thread.
The remaining chain stitch outlines were worked in yellow colour skein.
The same yellow skein was used for working all the mirrors.
Oval shaped gold bead was the last detail to be worked on this embroidery.
The pattern for this yoke.
The completed tunic.
cream mirror work tunic
This was the story of this tunic in 2014. After two and a half years, the same yoke became a part of another tunic. Which will be narrated later.

I am in Chennai, India for vacation. Embroidery is not part of this routine. Still some small assignments are worked in between other work. This tunic was worked in the summer of 2016.
After working two tunics in lemon green and white combination some pieces of lemon green fabric was lying around. A kutchwork embroidery seemed like a good idea. There was this tunic fabric in half white cotton block printed with the same colour.
I wanted to add another colour to this white. A medium majenta thread was chosen.
Drawing diagonal kutchwork on 2mm graph paper gives a dainty look. The border pattern-
The pattern below the neck-
I started with the first sleeve border.
Making the anchoring stiches was not so difficult. Care was required to work the stitch at the precise point and moving over or under the thread had to be accurate. The interlacing was not so easy, because of the daintiness of the pattern.
This is the same story in the second part of the journey, still it was better to work the outer squares.
Instead of looking for another colour, the single line kutch border was worked in green. An idea of working this border in white was considered and rejected.
I moved on to the yoke at this point. The kutch work in green thread.
The basic kutch squares worked in majenta.
Worked the border in majenta and the back stitch outline was worked in white. This piece was completed.
The border on another sleeve was worked.
The embroidered pieces and the tunic fabric was given for sewing.

white green majenta kutch tunic
The detail.
white green majenta kutch tunic-det
After a while, a cotton fabric with same lemon colour tones was bought for salwar [ Indian  pants].
white green majenta kutch tunic-salwar
I wore this tunic set last week. It was cool.

This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally,  the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tunic.
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
The threads used were-
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
The detail of the tunic.
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.

The black yoke with mirror work in three colours is completed.The colours  used are lemon yellow, medium green and medium mauve. the yoke outlines are done in cream.
The yoke when placed over the chanderi fabric before the tunic was sewn looked like this-

cream&black chanderi tunic-2 yoke

The tailor designed the neck based on the yoke pattern and the sewn tunic-

cream & black chanderi -tunic

I could have used many colour combinations with this cream and black background.I could have also embroidered over the printed pattern on the fabric too. This is just to think of different options.
The tunic would have looked good even without any type of embroidery. If that were the case , there wouldn’t have been anything to blog about, it would have just been worn.

Now that the embroidery is completed, I have added the antique sequins. A leaf shaped sequin is attached to the centre of the motifs. The rest of the sequins are usual ones.
I designed this yoke keeping in mind the different sequins, it was just a matter of choosing the different stitches, which would go well with the sequins. The border patterns would work well for decorative seams too.

blue tunic yoke - completed

The tunic material is dark blue chiffon .I couldn’t find the exact colour material for the yoke.[After embroidering directly on georgette earlier for two tunics,, I learnt my lesson well. Not to do it again for a long time! ].The material was another dark blue with shades of violet. As you can see, it was not too different.

blue tunic- with sewn yoke

After wearing it, I realized that it would have been better if it had been lined with another fabric. Also never thought that the sequins would stand so prominent in this colour.

Iam still detailing this blue tunic in this post.
The small motifs are done in stem stitch, straight stitches,and detached chain.
The border outlines are done in back stitch, buttonhole stitch variation and rows of arrowhead stitchor zigzag back stitch.

blue chiffon tunic-2

Whenever I see any motif block printed fabric, I get fascinated. All kinds of different embroidery ideas float on my mind, to embellish them. For this yoke, I chose a simple motif pattern, and worked three different stitches.
When I was busy getting inspired by the tunic on fashion show, I overlooked a small detail- the yoke was printed with the motifs! The embroidery was done only for the border. This detail I found after completing this tunic! it would have really saved time.

I worked on this a few years ago. Even though, the size doesn’t fit , it still hangs in my wardrobe,.
The fabric is mangalagiri handloom cotton in cream with zari border. Golden yellow salwar[Indian pants] completed the set.
The embroidery was worked on a sewn tunic.
I mixed and matched two , three designs to get this embroidery pattern.
All stitches was done in two strands of cotton skeins.
The stitches- chain, stem,buttonhole, herringbone, raised herringbone, chain and stem filling, fly, satin

The centre close up-

cream tunic-1

Close up of the side-

cream tunic-2

The tunic-

cream tunic-3

After all the stitches were completed on the yoke, I stitched some antique gold seqiuns and beads for embellishing. The picture of the completed yoke and sleeves-

green&yellow kutch- beads

Now for the tunic itself, the tailor had stitched beautifully the yoke and sleeves to the tunic, with the neck pattern . I wanted a deep neck for the back, with a crossed cord made with the green fabric.

green&yeliow kutch- tunic

Whenever other people made comments about the design or embroidery, it was either the tunic was good or the embroidery was good, or else the colour combination was nice.It is very interesting to see how each one’s taste differs.
Very rarely, the tunic, design , embroidery, colour coordination, all together would be a success. This tunic is one of that kind.

This tunic I started a few months ago. The tunic fabric was in cream printed with green, yellow , orange and red colours. I chose a light green fabric for the yoke, sleeves and salwar[Indian pants].
I wanted to do a continous kutch embroidery pattern, and some fillers with other stitches.
The continous patterns in kutch embroidery, is done in one thread. A variegated thread can be used, which will have slightly different effect . When one colour is used , it is sure that, only that colour will dominate the whole pattern. I wanted to study and work this aspect in this tunic piece.
With the green base for yoke, I chose yellow for the kutch work[because that colour will accommodate red and orange for filling patterns]. The other colours were- red,orange, copper orange, medium green, and cream.
The embroidery done on sleeves-

green& yellow kutch- sleeves

I’ll continue with the yoke on my next post.