I have been working on this sewn tunic this week.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht
The kutchwork pattern was traced onto the tunic with white carbon. Not a very bright idea.
The pattern-
WIPW127.oryelkutcht-pat
When a time was conducive I started with brown thread. The design was very light after so many weeks. The brown thread in Chennai sunlight did not match so well as in Muscat indoor light. Still eager to start the project, I started with the basic stitches with brown thread. While working on it bought red and yellow threads. After ensuring the points are covered with brown thread, started with the yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-1
The basic stitches in brown are interlaced with red thread. This looks much better than the dull brown. Controlling the urge to work mirrors.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-2
The four motifs below the neck was worked in red thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-3
The pattern is now is worked with yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-4
The centre and other spaces are worked in half white thread. By this time the design from white carbon has completely vanished. This pattern was also drawn on 2mm graph paper.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-5
The project is completed without mirrors.
WIPW127-orange yellow chanderi kutch tunic
The embroidery detail-
WIPW127-orange yellow kutch tunic-det
The tunic looks nice even without the embroidery. An outline stitch around the neck would have been sufficient.
The 17th stitch on SSS challenge seems like an easy stitch. Started working on the sampler today.

This is the latest tunic where blue is matched with yellow and orange. In Muscat, Oman, we get oxidized silver accessories. Most of them have beads on them. Different shades of corals are available and they are coordinated with turquoise beads. These are feast for eyes in the souq. Mind slowly started generating patterns for projects built on these inspirations.
This tunic started with the yellow fabric printed with orange motifs. A kutchwork design with allowance for mirrors was drawn along with two other embroidery designs. The choice was to work the embroidery on yellow fabric or orange fabric. With the orange fabric being available yellow was the first colour chosen. The next choice was green. The fly stitches on the leaf pattern.

yelorbluet-1

yelorbluet-1

Two kutchwork motifs were worked in orange thread which was lighter than the fabric colour.

yelorbluet-2

yelorbluet-2

Another motif pattern had an option of being worked in two threads, the central diamond are worked in maroon thread.

yelorbluet-3

yelorbluet-3

Starting with the idea of incorporating blue into this design, the corners of this square motif was worked in blue thread.

yelorbluet-4

yelorbluet-4

The yellow from the fabric was the next colour, the same motif pattern which was worked in lighter orange was now worked in yellow thread.

yelorbluet-5

yelorbluet-5

The fly stitches are outlined with buttonhole stitch in lighter green thread.

yelorbluet-6

yelorbluet-6

Open chain stitches are worked in white thread to outline the mirrors inside the orange and yellow kutchwork motifs. The piece itself was outlined with back stitch.

yelorbluet-7

yelorbluet-7

Mirrors were worked in the same fabric yellow in the space between the leaf patterns.

yelorbluet-8

yelorbluet-8

Square mirrors in blue thread are worked inside the square motifs.

yelorbluet-9

yelorbluet-9

These blue beads are made of wood and dyed in blue.

yelorbluet-10

yelorbluet-10

The blue handloom cotton fabric with stripes was perfect for this set.

yellow orange patialablue tunic

yellow orange patialablue tunic

Outlining the embroidered piece and the sleeves with the yellow orange fabric was a good choice. Though this idea was mine, I could see the satisfaction in my tailor’s eyes. He is quite stingy with praises.

yeloow orange Patiala blue unic-det

yeloow orange Patiala blue unic-det

The pattern for this embroidery-

yelorbluet-pattern

yelorbluet-pattern

I used multi colored polyester thread for this sampler. This stitch is explained in detail with samples in SharonB’s blog. The sampler-

21.115.whipped long tailed chain stitch

21.115.whipped long tailed chain stitch

I started this sampler with whipping eight long chains in the first sample. The whipping is done hallway on the seven long tail chains in the second sample. Whipped long tailed chains are combined with detached chain in the third sample.

21.115.wltchainst-1

21.115.wltchainst-1

Long tailed chains are alternated with pistil stitches and then whipped in the first sample. Quarter buttonholes are alternated with this stitch in the second sample. Beads are added to the third sample.

21.115.wltchainst-2

21.115.wltchainst-2

Herringbone stitches and beads are added to the first sample. Fly stitches are worked between the long tailed chains in the second sample. This stitch is outlined with buttonhole stitch in the last sample.

21.115.wltchainst-3

21.115.wltchainst-3

This stitch opens new possibilities to work in circles. I was keen to see the effect of the multi colored thread on this stitch. Mandalas can be worked with this stitch as the centre.

The details of the embroidery done on yellow fabric for the yoke . the border is the same as sleeves except for paisleys.

The border with orange kutch motifs and green paisleys.

yeyk-1

The paisleys and diamond shapes outlined with red thread in back stitch. The rest of the kutch motifs worked with brown thread.

yeyk-2

Chain stitch borders in cream thread, and green sequins attached with gold beads.

yeyk-3

The paisleys are further embellished with antique gold sequins

yeyk-4

The completed yokes and tunic on my next.

The sleeves of this tunic had borders in two fabrics. One was the brown fabric, which we have seen so far, another one is yellow fabric.
The outlining of the mirrors was done in cream on this brown fabric. the border with sequins and mirrors stitched with green and orange threads alternatively.

brsl-2


The details of the border in yellow fabric- pattern with kutch work motifs done in brown thread.

yesl-1

The same border after working the kutch work motifs in orange thread.

yesl-2

With green outline in back stitch

yesl-3

With squares done in red, with green sequins and gold beads.

yesl-4

The yellow border on yoke on my next post.

Further details of this multi coloured yoke. For this yoke, three fabrics are used. The centre is brown, then a printed fabric in orange , on which embroidery is not done. Then a yellow fabric, where a border pattern is done with sequins.
Continuing with the details on the brown fabric- two lines in chain stitch with yellow thread was done previously along with the kutch work motifs. Two more line are worked in chain stitch with variegated thread.
The mirrors were to be outlined with cream thread, the work is in progress on this picture-

bryk-4

The next step was to attach the sequins, which is completed in this picture , the mirrors will be stitched later.

bryk-5

Brown fabric for sleeves-
The same brown fabric is used for sleeves too. The border before attaching the mirrors.

brsl-1


some more details on my next post.

This time around, I wanted to do something new with the tunic yoke. The patterns and embroidery were usual, but I used three fabrics for this embroidery on yoke and sleeves.
The tunic material was woven ikat cotton.

green ikat tunic

For this tunic, the yoke combination was brown, printed orange and yellow. The embroidery was predominantly mirror work and kutch work with some sequins.
First I’ll start with the central yoke, which was done in brown colour fabric. this yoke had kutch work motif , sequins and mirrors. The kutchwork in yellow thread-

bryk-1

The kutch work motif in green-

bryk-2

the third motif was  done in orange, the three motifs-

bryk-3

More  details on my next post.