I liked this printed Patiala salwar in soft cotton.

marikcrm-salwar

marikcrm-salwar

For this a maroon woven ikat in cotton was chosen as tunic fabric.
The idea was to have a simple embroidery on yoke. The pattern-

marikcrm-pattern

marikcrm-pattern

I used variegated thread to work this embroidery with back stitches, seeing it was too simple, a few red stones were added in the centre.

marikcrm-yoke

marikcrm-yoke

The tunic –

maroon ikat-ceam yoke-tunic1

maroon ikat-ceam yoke-tunic1

I liked the neckline of this tunic-

maroon ikat-cream yoke-tunic2

maroon ikat-cream yoke-tunic2

If more number of strands were used for this work, it would have made the embroidery look more prominent.

I had worked blackwork border patterns on a white tunic earlier.

Blackwork border on white tunic

In this tunic , instead of drawing from a graph pattern, I did the blackwork on aida cloth itself.I wanted the embroidery borders on light cream cloth,the aida cloth was ideal for that.
The pattern I chose from a blackwork book and modified to my requirements.
The fabric is mercerised cotton in ikat weave.it has a sheen , which is not there in handloom cotton.
The thread colours- I used the fabric colour and a dark brown colour thread.
The yoke-

Blackwork yoke

The borders-

Blackwork borders

Closeup-

blackwork border- closeup

It saved me lot of time to do the embroidery on even weave cloth,
and it is easier to get an almost perfect effect[ because only God is perfect].this reminds me of an information, when the ethnic women do embroidery , they always do a motif which is not a part of the original pattern,or they atleast change the colour deliberately on a the pattern – to remind themselves that, only God can be perfect . this aspect I had seen in many ethnic embroidery pieces in India.
We don’t get exact even weave[or square evenweave] cloth in India,even the canvas cloth or waste canveas are only rectangular. While using these, we have to take care while choosing the pattern.
There is wide range of patterns , when used , enhances the embroidery and the overall effect of the work. We can try a small sampler motif on a piece of these cloths, before starting to work on a project, and avoid using four sided patterns.

I wanted to try some blackwork border for tunic.This tunic is handwoven  ikat  fabric in white colour.I did the blackwork pattern on black fabric.

First , the whole pattern was drawn on a graph paper- A central panel, 2 side panels and 2 borders for sleeves.

 The tunic looks like this-

blackwork border tunic

Then I attached some antique beadhangings to the central panel.the closeup-

blackwork boder -central panel.

And for the side panels and sleeves, small silver colour beads were added. the closeup-

blackwork border-small border

 I could have used brighter pink thread,

while I was doing the embroidery,the pink looked ok. After attaching it to the tunic, it looks a bit dull.I  am quite fond of this fabric.

darning sampler-6

darning sampler-6

 I have been exploring some more on this pattern darning.Also  attending vedanta philosopy lectures this whole week. because of which  couldn’t post  any entry. .I enjoyed doing this peocack. this pattern is adapted from phulkari embroidery, In which the whole surface is filled with surface satin, to break the monotony,this pattern darning is used in between.Red grey and cream pattern is typical Ikat pattern.

Pattern darning -7

Pattern darning -7

Iam adding some tiny borders also. whenever I work on this sampler,I want to do some project using these stitches,  but  still  waiting for inspiration.

pattern darning -8

pattern darning -8

This violet motif reminds me of dhakai embroidery[bangladesh].Let me see how I go from here.

I have been slowly learning this embroidery. I am also thinking where I can make use of this darning stitch.

sampler -5

sampler -5

Iam just doing the darning patterns  based on the woven designs, some are too big too adapt fo r the experiments.

Since I have been going on and on about the  Ikat weave  for this month’s stitch explorer,This is just a sample from the book-IKAT TEXTILES OF INDIA by Chelna Desai-

Ikat weave pattern

 

These patterns are bold and quite common in the northeastern part of India. Iam always fascinated by them, and waiting to use them for my embroidery ideas.This month pattern darning gave me a perfect excuse .I  try and use them for small scale- cross stitch patterns, kutch  work designs .Being a weave it is geometrical.The yarn is first dyed with the pattern and hand woven.

My sampler on pattern darning-

 pattern darning-3

pattern darning-3

Now movingon to  mono colour, I also learning from kasauti and phulkari embroideries.

To understand this stitch better I have using Ikat weave as an inspiration.This is helping a lot .I have also started on considering the possibilities of  phulkari and kasouti.In Phukari, the pattern darning is  used extensively,  but they don’ t use even weave fabric, but any other fabric like, cotton, chiffon, silk.  Typical motifs which can be filled with this stitch are drawn.The wrong side of the fabric doesn’t carry much thread[ to avoid damage].

In kasouti,the basis is holbein stitch,these pattern darning motifs are incorporated in between . Both holbein stitch designs and pattern darning designs can be drawn on graph paper, [easier that way].

Now for my sampler-

8 patterns

8 patterns

As you can see, I have been experimenting  with colours.till now it has been tie and dye ikat weave patterns.