I have been working on this sewn tunic this week.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht
The kutchwork pattern was traced onto the tunic with white carbon. Not a very bright idea.
The pattern-
WIPW127.oryelkutcht-pat
When a time was conducive I started with brown thread. The design was very light after so many weeks. The brown thread in Chennai sunlight did not match so well as in Muscat indoor light. Still eager to start the project, I started with the basic stitches with brown thread. While working on it bought red and yellow threads. After ensuring the points are covered with brown thread, started with the yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-1
The basic stitches in brown are interlaced with red thread. This looks much better than the dull brown. Controlling the urge to work mirrors.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-2
The four motifs below the neck was worked in red thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-3
The pattern is now is worked with yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-4
The centre and other spaces are worked in half white thread. By this time the design from white carbon has completely vanished. This pattern was also drawn on 2mm graph paper.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-5
The project is completed without mirrors.
WIPW127-orange yellow chanderi kutch tunic
The embroidery detail-
WIPW127-orange yellow kutch tunic-det
The tunic looks nice even without the embroidery. An outline stitch around the neck would have been sufficient.
The 17th stitch on SSS challenge seems like an easy stitch. Started working on the sampler today.

This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally,  the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
sanchik-yokepat
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
sanchik-sleevepat
The threads used were-
sanchik-threads
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
sanchik-1
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
sanchik-2
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
sanchik-3
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
sanchik-yokedet
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
sanchik-sleeve-det
The detail of the tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic-det
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.

The embroidery on this mirror yoke is further worked in blue and yellow .
The small triangle shapes around the mirrors were filled with chain stitches in medium blue colour.

ge&bl-miryk-2

ge&bl-miryk-2

The mirrors are always worked in the last stage, because it is difficult to work with embroidery loop after working the mirrors. The mirror shapes are outlined in chain stitch in lemon yellow thread.[my idea at this stage was to buy a yellow printed fabric for the tunic]

gr&bl miryk-3

gr&bl miryk-3

The yoke looked like this after working the mirrors.one mirror caught the flash!

gr&bl miryk-4

gr&bl miryk-4

Another view without flash.

gr&bl miryk-5

gr&bl miryk-5

I couldn’t get the right fabric in blue or yellow for this yoke, tried swing towards white with black prints and settled at last on dark green ikat fabric with blue and yellow streaks on its weave. I was not sure whether this fabric will suit the young girl, but she loved it and I was happy!

This is a simple yoke with mirrors. The yoke fabric is mangalagiri cotton in yellow/green. The embroidery is done with cotton skeins. This was for my friend’s daughter. Idea was to work with bright colours and I also liked this green and blue combination.
The pattern-

grbl miryk-pattern

grbl miryk-pattern

Chain stitch outlines were worked with three strands of light blue thread.

grbl-miryk-1

grbl-miryk-1

Medium size mirrors were attached in the central spaces. Small antique gold beads went along with the colour scheme, so they were worked inside the kutchwork motifs.

crky-br-6

crky-br-6

Cream thread was used extensively for outlines and for embellishing the flowers with straight and fly stitches. Small mirrors were worked inside the flowers.

crky-br-7

crky-br-7

The completed tunic-

cream kutchwork on brown tunic-1

cream kutchwork on brown tunic-1

The neck detail

crky-br-tunic2

crky-br-tunic2

The tunic set-

cream kutchwork on brown tunic set

cream kutchwork on brown tunic set

The experiment of drawing freeform kutchwork was quite rewarding in this tunic. I may try this idea in future, but not immediately! The colour scheme with mirrors also enhanced this yoke pattern.

Satin stitches were worked on the patterns over the paisley on both sides in green metallic thread.

crky-br-3

crky-br-3

After outlining these shapes, light copper colour silk thread was used to fill the flowers [petals?]

crky-br-4

crky-br-4

Since, I couldn’t get away from geometric kutch motif, it was worked with red thread with a space for working a big mirror!

crky-br-5

crky-br-5

I was in India for my nephew’s wedding. After enjoying thoroughly, we returned to Muscat last week. But the routine is starting slowly. I‘ll post the details of the embroidery on bridal gifts after organizing the pictures.
Now for the details of this tunic, I had bought this salwar from FabIndia.

crky-br-fabric

crky-br-fabric

A brown handloom cotton fabric with green streaks was chosen for the tunic. Generally I chose kutchwork motifs, borders drawn on graph paper, but for this tunic a freeform of kutchwork was worked with other stitches, beads and mirrors.
The kutchwork pattern on the yoke-
crky-br-1
The neckline with paisley and central motif.
crky-br-2