Stitch challenges
SSS
The band sampler of last week’s lace stitch along with a few NESSAL black work borders was completed. This week’s stitch is mount mellick stitch. I have not worked this stitch before. I have always wanted to learn other embroidery techniques. This mount mellick embroidery is one of them. Taking the opportunity given by this challenge, an idea of working a sampler of some stitches of this embroidery along with this week’s stitch as come up. The shapes are drawn on paper and traced on a beige fabric. Hoping to start the work tomorrow.
TAST
This week’s stitch is a beautiful stitch with a long name- buttonholed cable chain stitch. The samples were worked on earlier challenge. The link was posted on FB group page yesterday.
I have started the embroidery with gold metallic thread on this green fabric.
wipw125-benagreen-zardosi-2
I am going to India for a whole month on this Saturday. Four weeks is too long to be without stitching. Just sorting through the projects to take at least two of them to India. Really hoping not to buy tunic fabrics for embroidery.

Today we’ll see how to draw neck on paper using a sewn tunic. Ensure that the tunic is perfectly sewn and  has a simple neck design.

sample tunic-neckline

sample tunic-neckline

I have chosen this tunic as sample

st-nm-depth

st-nm-depth

Place the tunic flat on any surface. Imagine a line on the middle of the tunic. Place a scale[ best is using an inch tape, I couldn’t hold the tape and take a picture, so used scale] on it. Here, we are measuring the depth of the neck in front. Stretch the fabric, measure it and note it down. It is 6.5 inches.

st-nm-width

st-nm-width

Now we’ll measure the wideness of the neck. Placing a paper [keep a scale] on the middle line, using it as the starting point, using an inch tape measure the width of the neck. It is 3.1/4 on this sample.

paper sample-neck

paper sample-neck

Fold a large paper [ A3 or B3 size]  in the middle. Meaning the narrow side should be folded in half. Mark a point on the fold at the top of the paper leaving a 5mm space. This is the starting point. The depth is noted on the fold [y axis] from the starting point. And the width is noted from the starting point perpendicular to the fold. Now draw a neck design of your choice.
V-neck, U-neck are easiest.
Remember that, this is half of neck, whatever you draw will be half pattern, after drawing or tracing or copying the pattern on this half, place a carbon, red, blue or black, this ink side should face the other half of the paper. When we draw along the pattern placing the carbon like this, the original half pattern  gets copied on the other half. This technique is simple, fool proof.
Now some sample tunics, where embroidered borders are worked on separate fabric

eonwnl-1

eonwnl-1

After drawing the neck line, individual motif patterns were drawn around it. The tunic material is chiffon. It does not have a lining. The neck required a fabric which will hold the shape. The neck is deeper in this sample, it requires a vest to wear underneath it.

eonwnl-2

eonwnl-2

This sample is to show that sometimes pattern can be drawn and embroidered after the tunic is sewn. We just need to have some basic idea to the work on. The tunic fabric is cotton ikat. The embroidery is Kashmiri couching. The tunic was sewn with this  cross over neckline in beige fabric. Marking with scale the pattern was drawn. The pattern was two lines and points at equidistant. And embroidery commenced at that point.

eonwnl-3a

eonwnl-3a

The fabric with the copied pattern was sewn on the tunic first, and the embroidery was worked on that later.

eonwnl-3b

eonwnl-3b

In this sample, the square neck I had drawn and designed seemed too broad, so added a small triangular motif on both sides, to narrow the neck .
These samples here are to show that, it is better to have some idea of necklines before drawing the pattern and embroidery.
Things to note- if the embroidery is done very well but sewing it on the tunic is not done properly, the whole project will be constant reminder of the shortfalls made by either party. And, it is difficult for the person sewing to rectify any mistakes of the embroiderer.
Next we’ll see about yoke worked on separate fabric, which can be attached to the tunic