This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally,  the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
sanchik-yokepat
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
sanchik-sleevepat
The threads used were-
sanchik-threads
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
sanchik-1
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
sanchik-2
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
sanchik-3
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
sanchik-yokedet
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
sanchik-sleeve-det
The detail of the tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic-det
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.

This is the second tunic with lemon green and white combination. This summer these two colours were predominant in the tunic embroidery projects.
The fabric is handloom cotton and the embroidery was done with white cotton skein and some details worked in white perle cotton #8. There are two design elements. The first element is borders which were worked on the sleeves.

lemgrechi-sleeves

lemgrechi-sleeves

The same border design was worked around the neck.

lemgrechi-neck

lemgrechi-neck

These designs were drawn by hand with a foot ruler. The pattern was drawn on the wrong side of the cloth and embroidery was also worked on the wrong side. The fabric being see-through, was placed on the pattern and the floral design was traced with a pencil.
Started the embroidery in the centre.

lemgrechi-1

lemgrechi-1

The work in progress of the floral design. The shadow work/ chikan work/ closed herringbone was worked with four strands of cotton skein. I felt the thickness of the thread will make the embroidery more prominent.

lemgrechi-wip

lemgrechi-wip

After working the herringbone stitches in cotton skein, white perle cotton# 8 was used to work the straight stitches inside the petals. These straight stitches were worked on the right side of the fabric.

lemgrechi-2

lemgrechi-2

The last detail of French knots worked on the flowers.

lemgrechi-3

lemgrechi-3

After the completion of the embroidery the fabric was given to tailor for sewing. The tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

The detail.

lemon green chikan-det

lemon green chikan-det

It has been a while since I have done chikan work embroidery. It is easy to work, that’s a blessing. The embroidery needs to cover fairly a large area because of the subtlety of the work and the colours used. The pattern-

lemgrechi-pattern

lemgrechi-pattern

This tunic does not have lining. If required a slip can be used. I have one in this green. Sometimes it is hard to get lining fabric in cotton in this place. Since a polyester fabric will take away the comfort factor, it is better to go without a lining.

The chikan work embroidery is common in Indian state of Uttarpradesh. The embroidery is predominantly shadow work, but other stitches are also used. The chikan work is done on sarees, tunics, salwar suits, dupattas … .Pastel colours and white fabrics in soft cotton, chiffon, silk, crepe are commonly used for this work.
I wanted to explore some simple stitches in chikan work on this tunic. The fabric was light blue soft cotton. Pistil stitch was the main stitch, other stitches were-back stitch, herringbone filling [shadow work], berry stitch.

blue green chikan work tunic

blue green chikan work tunic

The colours were a shade of green I think it is called teal, but I am not sure. The centre detail-

blue green chikan work tunic-=centre

blue green chikan work tunic-=centre

The tailor marked the front for me to trace the pattern. This tunic has a high neck design

blue green chikan work tunic-neck

blue green chikan work tunic-neck

The motif details-

blue green chikan work tunic-  motif detail

blue green chikan work tunic- motif detail

The motif pattern, this can be used as a single motif too.

blue green chikan work tunic- motif

blue green chikan work tunic- motif

The full embroidery pattern

blue green chikan work tunic- pattern

blue green chikan work tunic- pattern

The shop bought chikan work tunic has more embroidery, but I preferred this minimal work. Earlier I had done this chikan work on tunics they are here

The embroidery was worked on cotton fabric. The ideal fabrics for chikan embroidery –transparent cottons, chiffon, crepe. But the fabric I worked was not transparent. So technically it was just an use of chikan embroidery on the tunic and not the authentic chikan work.
The pattern used for the embroidery in the centre-

beige pink chikan centre  pat

beige pink chikan centre pat

The embroidery-

beige pink chikan centre emb

beige pink chikan centre emb

The tunic

beige pink chikan tunic

beige pink chikan tunic

There are many stitches used in Indian ethnic chikan embroidery.
Shadow work [herringbone worked on the reverse]is the most common.
Eyelet stitches are also widely used. Sometimes herringbone, running stitches are also used.
When I started doing embroidery, to learn a stitch, a design would be drawn with that stitch in mind. I’ll learn and practice that embroidery through that project. They were generally on tunics. In this project, raised herringbone was practiced on this tunic.
The other stitches used were back stitch , feather stitch and fly stitch. Separate patterns were drawn for sleeves, corners and centre. The sleeves pattern-

beige pink chikan sleeve pat

beige pink chikan sleeve pat

Embroidery on sleeve

beige pink chikan sleeve emb

beige pink chikan sleeve emb

Pattern for the corners –

beige pink chikan corner pat

beige pink chikan corner pat

Embroidery on the corners. The basic flower was the same for all patterns, the difference was only on the placements, depending on how they were used –either for corner or sleeve or centre.

beige pink chikan corner emb

beige pink chikan corner emb

WISH YOU ALL VERY HAPPY NEW YEAR

I designed to work on this tunic in september ’08. And entered this as UFO project  on stitchin fingers group.I hadn’t even  started to work on it, when some of the members had already completed their first project-

When I  join a group , I  should understand the concept, and put some effort towards it- A lesson learnt.

I started to work on this tunic in dec’08.The design was basically shadow work[chikan embroidery]. and the fabric, black chiffon. chosen colour -blue. Maybe I was inspired by the ‘abaya’ worn by Omani women, the attached border is a typical local flair. now the tunic-4d this is the front.

4b the back with a paisley design

4ethe sleeves.

st-sampler008 the tailor did a good job.

I am also thinking of writing a step-by-step of designing a tunic.