Project work seems to be increasing. The routine is to buy fabrics from India, design and work the embroideries, then they are given to the tailor to be sewn as tunic sets or blouses. This was going well till the projects were small or medium.
Now the projects are taking more time, the stitch challenges were not started for the past few weeks.
Some thinking and planning are in order. A new year resolution may be?
After swapping the border onto another tunic, a small border of triangles made of herringbone stitches with chain stitch was worked very near to the attached border.
WIPW201-blaikmirt-7
This is another tunic in satin silk, which came from the tailor yesterday. Small heart shaped pearl beads can be put to use.
WIPW201-lorasatsit-1
The bluish green fabric is some type of tussar silk saree bought from FabIndia during this recent trip. The navy fabric is raw silk for the blouse. The embroidery work will be on the sleeves of the blouse.
WIPW201-navymetb-1

This week was a good week for stitching in spite of viral infection. I am on the mend now, started the medicines at the right time.
I am working on the mirrors and the silver beads together on this black border. The progress is more, but the picture taken of it is not so good.
WIPW197-blaikmirt-3
This is another project, plain black tunic, the motif border will be attached to the tunic and the cream block printed fabric is the salwar. It is with the tailor now. I might do a small kutchwork on it.
WIPW197-blacrekutt-1
I am also designing a cross stitch pattern incorporating a letter with a celtic background. The celtic motif is a free pattern from inkcircles. This is a birthday gift. So the progress pictures may not be posted till it is gifted.

A lovely name for detached  triple chain stitch. The method of working this stitch is on Queenie’s blog. Working this way gives more dimension to an ordinary detached chain stitch. So I worked the stitch on satin cloth, pattern taken from old pattern book.
The flower in two shades of blue with four strands of cotton skein.
SSS.44. milfleur-1
The stems are worked in outline stitch.
SSS.44.milfleur-2
The leaves are again  worked with mille fleur stitch.
SSS.44.milfleur-3
Added small pearl beads inside the flowers.
SSS.44.milfleur-4
This project was completed just before the tailor left for vacation. The worked satin fabric was sewn on the towel by him.
SSS.44.mille fleur stitch
The old patterns which have detached chain options can be used for this stitch. Another option  is using this stitch with ribbon embroidery. A pretty and easy stitch for textural embroidery.

 

I am planning to work on leaf stitch sampler on SSS challenge. The stitch looks simple and it is eagerly awaited stitch.
Projects
My tailor informed that he was going to Pakistan for 3 months yesterday. This means for some time the embroidery on tunics can be set aside. This might  be the change I was looking for. Now stitch challenges, UFO’s, new stitches, other ethnic embroideries, may be even some crochet can be looked into.
Blue ikat tunic
Another stitch and thread was started on this motif border for blue ikat tunic.
WIPW157-blgreyikat-4
Mustard mangalagiri tunic
The embellishing with embroidery and beads was completed on mustard with copper zari tunic.
WIPW157-muscopt-3
The details will be on another post. Now is the time to think of ways to work leaf stitch.

Oyster stitch samples were worked during earlier TAST challenge. This week’s stitch on TAST 2017 challenge is beaded oyster stitch, the working of which is here on Sharon’s Pintangle.
All the samples are worked with four strands of cotton skein and glass beads. The first sample is the basic beaded oyster stitch. The second sample has three continuous beads after the oyster stitch. Two oyster stitches and two beads together, and this is repeated in the third row.
TAST2017.4.146.beadoysst-1
Zigzag beaded oyster stitch forms the first row in this part of the sampler. Instead of completing the oyster stitch with a bead, I worked the oyster stitch around a bead in the second sample. Isolated oyster stitches with three beads form the third row. Beaded oyster stitches are used to work flowers in the last set of samples.
TAST2017.4.146.beadoysst-2
This is the whole beaded oyster stitch sampler.
TAST2017.4.146.beaded oyster stitch sampler
I wanted to work the beads into the oyster stitch itself, but felt it would be hard to maintain the uniformity of the stitches and dropped the idea. Two more stitch samplers were also worked in India. Will post the details soon.

Stitch challenges
SSS challenge does not have any new stitch this week. Queenie is using last five weeks stitches on a project. At present I am not planning to do anything this week. But eager to see how all these stitches are used by Queenie.
Last week’s TAST challenge stitch sampler was completed and the link was posted. This week’s stitch is alternating up and down buttonhole stitch. The samples were worked during earlier TAST challenge. The link to the post was posted on FB group page yesterday.
The other challenges are yet to be part of weekly routine.
Zardosi
The embroidery on cream raw silk was completed and the tunic fabric along with the embroidered piece is given to the tailor. The silk fabrics with lining are ideal for cool weather. I had bought some silk fabrics in India on my earlier trips. They are brought out now to be embroidered. Though a general idea was there when these fabrics were bought, it is only at the time of making them into a project the ideas are coming into shape. Another dark green fabric is in queue for zardosi embroidery.
Cross stitch
Some progress was made on the sleeves of the navy blue polyester linen tunic.
wipw122-nbluepolinencross-4
After working on current project during the day, the evenings are spent browsing the net for ideas. Focus is on zardosi embroidery. The zardosi beads look grand on silk fabrics. Most of the designs involve all over embroidery or heavy work on sarees and blouses. Not suitable for my requirement. Still looking around. yesterday some browsing was done on Parsi embroidery too. The idea of parsi embroidery was implemented on a few tunics some years ago. It was trial error at that time. may be it is time to try it again.

The Randje per week2016 chart of the week was completed on Saturday. This week’s TAST stitch is inverted feather stitch. Looking at the earlier worked sampler does not give me much satisfaction, the stitches don’t look good at all. But still the link was posted on the FB group page.
Marash embroidery
Pink kutchwork border on green
Now that the green thread has come into the project last week, I decided to move on to the yoke with the green.

WIPW108-whigremajekutch-7

WIPW108-whigremajekutch-7

Orange violet combo tunic
The orange fabric on this tunic has woven checks. It is to be left as it is. The embroidery pattern was traced on to the violet fabric.
Mirror work
All the square mirrors were worked on the beige tunic. The last part in this project is the beads. Brown metallic beads were attached on the sleeves.

WIPW108-beigemirt-10

WIPW108-beigemirt-10

At this point, there does not seem to be any embroidered tunic fabric ready to be given to the tailor, some fabric which may not require embroidery has to be chosen.

I had bought this ready to wear Patiala with the matching dupatta. A mangalagiri fabric of the base colour of the Patiala is given to the tailor to be sewn.

WIPW108-coppatialamant-1

WIPW108-coppatialamant-1

This chanderi fabric either in cotton or silk is available in Chennai, as running materials or sarees or dupattas or stoles. The patterns and colours are pleasing to the eyes. the cream printed fabric is chanderi silk.

crblchanderi-fabric

crblchanderi-fabric

The embroidery design was a small border to be worked in chain stitch. I am used to working with mirrors. We get numerous borders worked with mirror like discs which are light weight and can be attached to the fabric with silk threads. This design was inspired by a design on an antique pattern book.

crblchanderi-pattern

crblchanderi-pattern

Started the project with chain stitch in metallic gold thread.

cblchanderi-1

cblchanderi-1

Two chain stitch rows and the small triangular shape fillings in herringbone stitches were worked with red fine silk thread.

crblchanderi-2

crblchanderi-2

Another chain stitch outline and leaf stitches were worked with cream colour anchor skein.

crblchanderi-3

crblchanderi-3

Generally these discs are held with glue and the securing stitches are worked around the edge. Instead of using the glue the disc was held tightly to work the securing stitch in red fine silk thread. It did not pose a problem in this case.

crblchanderi-4

crblchanderi-4

Some gold beads were then attached to this embroidered piece.

crblchanderi-5

crblchanderi-5

The tunic

cream black chanderi silk tunic

cream black chanderi silk tunic

The tailor did a neat job. The detail-

crblchanderi-detail

crblchanderi-detail

A cream cotton fabric was used for lining this tunic.

My Knowledge about this Kota fabric is minimal. It comes in silk and cotton. I have worn and seen sarees made of this fabric. it is transparent and needs to be starched and ironed. This tunic fabric is block printed white cotton Kota. The green striped fabric is chosen for the embroidery.

whgrekota-fabric

whgrekota-fabric

The bright sun is an inspiration to wear white fabrics. The fabric colour was so pleasing and cool, I did not want the embroidery to overpower it.
Four big size square mirrors outlined in chain stitch with silver metallic thread and embellished with silver beads completed the embroidery.

whgrekota-emb

whgrekota-emb

The pattern-

whgrekota-pattern

whgrekota-pattern

The same green striped fabric used for the embroidery was used for outlining the neckline and sleeve borders.

white green kota tunic

white green kota tunic

The detail of the neck and embroidery. it is hard to take pictures of big mirrors!

whgrekota-detail

whgrekota-detail

 

This brown ikat fabric was there for quite some time. The weave gave an impression of yellow. This brought about an idea of working the embroidery in yellow.

brgryel-fabric

brgryel-fabric

Suddenly a green fabric popped into the picture and I started working the embroidery on it. The embroidery was mainly worked in herringbone stitch with a chain and buttonhole stitches thrown here and there.

brgryel-1

brgryel-1

Then slowly brown thread came into the picture.

brgryel-2

brgryel-2

Most of the herringbone shapes are now outlined in brown thread.

brgryel03

brgryel-3

After outlining the leaf shapes in green thread, variegated fine silk thread was used.

brgryel-4a

brgryel-4a

These details show clearly the places where variegated thread was used.

brgryel-4b

brgryel-4b

Continuing with gold metallic thread.

brgryel-5

brgryel-5

Gold beads and sequins were added in the last part of this embroidery.

brgryel-6

brgryel-6

The detail of the embroidery placed on the brown ikat fabric.

brgryel-7

brgryel-7

I realize that the green fabric is overpowering. A slight shift had to be done, so a yellow cotton fabric was bought. This combo was given to the tailor and it came back like this.

brown green yelowtunci set

brown green yelowtunci set

The yellow tunic.

brown green yellow tunic

brown green yellow tunic

Now for the detail. The embroidery and the sleeves have brown ikat fabric on them.

brown green yellow tunic detail

brown green yellow tunic detail

The embroidery pattern.

brgryel-pattern

brgryel-pattern

This project taught me to be cautious before bringing in another colour [this case, green]. And if the deed is already done, start looking for ways to improvise, this case plain yellow fabric.