yoke


The works of this week were around tunics. Though the chain stitches on plum cotton tunic are monotonous, still it is interesting to see the growth on these simple border patterns.
WIPW230-pltch-6
A kutchwork pattern with chain stitch and mirror elements was drawn and traced onto the grey striped tunic after the tailor marked the neck. He doesn’t design the neck, just the dimensions are marked and the front piece is cut by him. This gives me room to design the neck, yoke etc. by cutting the tunic to size, I don’t have to hold the whole fabric while doing embroidery. Started the work with kutchwork elements in bright[ it does not look so bright in the image though!] orange thread.
WIPW230-grortku-2
In April I had bought a few tunic fabrics on cotton, they are not handloom. A light weight cotton, easy to maintain and cool to wear on hot days, they were used as blouse fabrics for sarees. The navy tunic with Kashmiri work came from this set.
WIPW222-ncotka-8
My friend liked this grey [we call it elephant grey colour] and she wanted chikan work done on it. A motif design which will be repeated was drawn yesterday. The front of the tunic will be filled with this motif. The plan is to draw the whole design on graph paper and then trace it on to the fabric.
WIPW230-gycottchi-1

While working on the progress on my tunic fabrics, my friend gave a project of working on a blue tussar silk tunic. Small feather stitches are worked on the marked spots on the tunic front with metallic thread
WIPW227-bltut-1
Double cross stitches are worked with half white thread on this neck line between the square motifs.
WIPW227-bpcretfse-10
Two more rows are worked with the same colour thread on this plum cotton tunic.
WIPW227-pltch-3
While I was working on these projects, SSS challenge started after a break. After finishing these, it is time to work on that

I am still working on the tunics during the past few days. Somehow time seems to run away when we are busy.
The next thread being worked on this neckline for printed blue crepe tunic is gold silk thread, this thread can be used on machine too. The outlines for the triangles are worked with chain stitch.
WIPW225-bpcretfse-8
The work on aqua blue fabric with white thread continues this week too. After the couching! Stitch, it is back to straight stitches, they are  not technically double running stitch, because the back side does not need to be the same, wherever required short cuts are taken.
WIPW225-wgtct-7
A neck and a design around the neck was drawn for the plum colour fabric this week. This will be a short top. The fabric was left over from a tunic made in 2013.
WIPW225-pltch-1

This tunic top was worked in 2013.
The tunic fabric was bought to match with the ready to wear Patiala salwar pant.
plu&yel-sal
A simple pattern to be incorporated with gold beads.
plu&yeltpat
The embroidery with beads, sequins and mirrors.
plu&yelt-1
Detail
plu7yelt-2det
The sewn tunic.
plum and yellow tunic

I am still working on SSS challenge stitches this past week. Two weeks holiday in India starts on this Friday. If a few more stitches are explored before that I would be happy. But stitching without thinking will be an ideal relaxation now. Beyond TAST challenge has one more week.
Cream tussar tunic
I have started working on the last detail of the leaves. After this detail is completed, time to choose the colour for flowers.
WIPW183-creamtust-8
Another design for tunic also was started this week. The tunic is a combination of two purple cotton fabrics, a blue zari border would be attached to the front and sleeves.
WIPW183-vvblugkutcht-1
A light green fabric will have kutchwork motifs around which this border will be attached in the front. After designing the motif, the work was started on the green fabric.
WIPW183-vvblugkutcht-2
The green fabric is small enough to carry on the trip, if I find time to stitch.

I was supposed to write this post yesterday evening. But my PC had already made plans for long update.
Two more braids were worked on Beyond TAST challenge. I have decided to try the last few week stitches of SSS challenge and work few samples. This plan is for tomorrow.
The outline on kantha work on black fabric was completed. The sleeves and tunic fabrics are ready to go the tailor.
WIPW182-marblaikatkantha-7
And the chain stitch embroidery on cream tussar tunic is building up on the yoke.
WIPW182-creamtust-7
Now the tailor is fairly free after Ramadhan, it is time to design some embroideries on the fabrics which were bought earlier. Maybe time to start with blouses. Will post the progress on them later.

I have been working on Beyond TAST challenge this week. A sampler motif with layering the stitches was completed. I borrowed some ideas from crewel embroidery, and incorporated them on my motif. The sampler is being continued with more of this technique with smaller details.
SSS challenge has been beckoning for the past few weeks, I am holding the temptation because of the time factor.
The idea of adding peach colour thread is being implemented on this old yoke. I should be able to complete it tomorrow.
WIPW175-peachtoyk-3
I will be happy to squeeze in some stitches from SSS challenge this week.

The second part of the cream mirror work yoke starts with the cream tunic being short. It was not matching well with the striped salwar because of the length. An idea of attaching another fabric was considered and rejected. The new fabric might clash with the salwar again. So a decision was made to keep this tunic aside and a lavender colour fabric which will go well with the striped salwar was chosen on the last visit to India. The lavender fabric needed some embroidery. While browsing through the wardrobe, it seemed like a good idea to stitch this cream mirror work on to this lavender fabric. Tailor did a nice job of taking out the embroidered pieces and stitched them on to this lavender tunic. The gold beads had to go.
The sleeves on lavender tunic.
lavmirt-sleeves
The tunic with cream mirror work attached to the front.
lavender mirrorwork tunic

lavmirt
Now this piece does not have enough lavender elements. I started with working chain stitch in variegated silk thread inside the curves.
lavmirt-1
There was some unworked space near the shoulder. The embroidery was extended to cover the space. It was helpful to have a record of the thread colours worked earlier.
lavmirt-2
After working chain stitch with variegated thread, a line of stem stitch and up and down buttonhole stitch combination was worked beside the orange outline in antique violet thread.
lavmirt-3
To reduce the cream colour on fabric and enhance the lavender colour, small triangles were worked with herringbone filling.
lavmirt-4a
The yoke after working these triangles.
lavmirt-4b
The same idea of triangles worked in herringbone filling was extended to neck border too.
lavmirt-5
The completed yoke.
cream mirror work on lavender tunic
The tunic set is ready to wear now.

I have been working on this sewn tunic this week.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht
The kutchwork pattern was traced onto the tunic with white carbon. Not a very bright idea.
The pattern-
WIPW127.oryelkutcht-pat
When a time was conducive I started with brown thread. The design was very light after so many weeks. The brown thread in Chennai sunlight did not match so well as in Muscat indoor light. Still eager to start the project, I started with the basic stitches with brown thread. While working on it bought red and yellow threads. After ensuring the points are covered with brown thread, started with the yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-1
The basic stitches in brown are interlaced with red thread. This looks much better than the dull brown. Controlling the urge to work mirrors.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-2
The four motifs below the neck was worked in red thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-3
The pattern is now is worked with yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-4
The centre and other spaces are worked in half white thread. By this time the design from white carbon has completely vanished. This pattern was also drawn on 2mm graph paper.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-5
The project is completed without mirrors.
WIPW127-orange yellow chanderi kutch tunic
The embroidery detail-
WIPW127-orange yellow kutch tunic-det
The tunic looks nice even without the embroidery. An outline stitch around the neck would have been sufficient.
The 17th stitch on SSS challenge seems like an easy stitch. Started working on the sampler today.

This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally,  the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
sanchik-yokepat
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
sanchik-sleevepat
The threads used were-
sanchik-threads
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
sanchik-1
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
sanchik-2
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
sanchik-3
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
sanchik-yokedet
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
sanchik-sleeve-det
The detail of the tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic-det
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.

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