yoke


I have been working on this sewn tunic this week.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht
The kutchwork pattern was traced onto the tunic with white carbon. Not a very bright idea.
The pattern-
WIPW127.oryelkutcht-pat
When a time was conducive I started with brown thread. The design was very light after so many weeks. The brown thread in Chennai sunlight did not match so well as in Muscat indoor light. Still eager to start the project, I started with the basic stitches with brown thread. While working on it bought red and yellow threads. After ensuring the points are covered with brown thread, started with the yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-1
The basic stitches in brown are interlaced with red thread. This looks much better than the dull brown. Controlling the urge to work mirrors.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-2
The four motifs below the neck was worked in red thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-3
The pattern is now is worked with yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-4
The centre and other spaces are worked in half white thread. By this time the design from white carbon has completely vanished. This pattern was also drawn on 2mm graph paper.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-5
The project is completed without mirrors.
WIPW127-orange yellow chanderi kutch tunic
The embroidery detail-
WIPW127-orange yellow kutch tunic-det
The tunic looks nice even without the embroidery. An outline stitch around the neck would have been sufficient.
The 17th stitch on SSS challenge seems like an easy stitch. Started working on the sampler today.

This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally,  the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
sanchik-yokepat
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
sanchik-sleevepat
The threads used were-
sanchik-threads
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
sanchik-1
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
sanchik-2
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
sanchik-3
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
sanchik-yokedet
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
sanchik-sleeve-det
The detail of the tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic-det
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.

The randje per week chart was an easy one. I could complete it without any mistakes this week. Triangular feather is the stitch of this week on TAST challenge. the link to the samples on the blog was posted on FB group page.
Now moving on to the projects-
Marash embroidery
Pink kutchwork border on green
After working the back stitch outline with white thread on the yoke, the work continued on the sleeves again. I am yet to take the picture.

WIPW111-whigremajekutch-10

WIPW111-whigremajekutch-10

Orange and violet combo tunic
The small corner design was completed with green and dark pink. The domination of green is actually welcome now.

WIPW111-oraviocombokutch-7

WIPW111-oraviocombokutch-7

Copper mangalagiri tunic
The space inside the diamond shaped zari enclosure was filled with fly stitch variations in cream and the square herringbone stitches were worked in golden yellow skein.

WIPW111-coppatialmant-4

WIPW111-coppatialmant-4

Brown silk tunic
I had this brown silk fabric with for quite some time. An idea of coordinating this fabric with pale orange came a few weeks ago. The fabric is with the tailor for the marking of neck and front. This will be a simple embroidery in pale orange with cotton skein.

WIPW111-brooranget-1

WIPW111-brooranget-1

It took some time to work the alphabet chart on RPW 2016 challenge, but it was completed the next day.
We have two week’s stitches on TAST 2016 challenge. Both were worked earlier. Interesting variations of raised chain stitch over straight stitch rows. The link to the samples were posted on FB group.
Marash embroidery
Pink kutchwork border on green
This project is moving quite slow, because of the size of the squares. This pace is fine. The bigger diamonds are being worked with pink thread.

WIPW109-whigremajekutch-8

WIPW109-whigremajekutch-8

Orange and violet combo tunic
The same colour scheme on the sleeves is to be adopted for rest of the embroidery on this orange and violet combo tunic. Starting with orange and yellow on this corner design.

WIPW109-oraviocombokutch-6

WIPW109-oraviocombokutch-6

The beadwork on the beige tunic with mirrors was completed.
Last week a copper mangalagiri fabric with zari border was given to the tailor to be sewn as a tunic for a readymade Patiala. It came back with a very creative yoke made of zari borders. This is definitely a surprise. But still not sure whether it is pleasant or unpleasant. Something needs to be done, with an idea- if it works, fine. If it doesn’t, the front can be concealed by the dupatta.

WIPW109-coppatialamant-2

WIPW109-coppatialamant-2

But the tailor seemed quite thrilled with his innovation.

This is the second tunic with lemon green and white combination. This summer these two colours were predominant in the tunic embroidery projects.
The fabric is handloom cotton and the embroidery was done with white cotton skein and some details worked in white perle cotton #8. There are two design elements. The first element is borders which were worked on the sleeves.

lemgrechi-sleeves

lemgrechi-sleeves

The same border design was worked around the neck.

lemgrechi-neck

lemgrechi-neck

These designs were drawn by hand with a foot ruler. The pattern was drawn on the wrong side of the cloth and embroidery was also worked on the wrong side. The fabric being see-through, was placed on the pattern and the floral design was traced with a pencil.
Started the embroidery in the centre.

lemgrechi-1

lemgrechi-1

The work in progress of the floral design. The shadow work/ chikan work/ closed herringbone was worked with four strands of cotton skein. I felt the thickness of the thread will make the embroidery more prominent.

lemgrechi-wip

lemgrechi-wip

After working the herringbone stitches in cotton skein, white perle cotton# 8 was used to work the straight stitches inside the petals. These straight stitches were worked on the right side of the fabric.

lemgrechi-2

lemgrechi-2

The last detail of French knots worked on the flowers.

lemgrechi-3

lemgrechi-3

After the completion of the embroidery the fabric was given to tailor for sewing. The tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

The detail.

lemon green chikan-det

lemon green chikan-det

It has been a while since I have done chikan work embroidery. It is easy to work, that’s a blessing. The embroidery needs to cover fairly a large area because of the subtlety of the work and the colours used. The pattern-

lemgrechi-pattern

lemgrechi-pattern

This tunic does not have lining. If required a slip can be used. I have one in this green. Sometimes it is hard to get lining fabric in cotton in this place. Since a polyester fabric will take away the comfort factor, it is better to go without a lining.

The RPW 2016 challenge could be completed on Saturday itself.

The link to the posts related to knotted feather stitch, this week’s  stitch on TAST  challenge, which was worked in 2013 was added to the TAST FB group .
Lemon green chikan tunic
A small motif in the centre is being worked first. I would like to share a tip which I used to copy the design on the green fabric. The white and yellow carbons were too light to be used on green. Red carbon would leave lots red and working with white thread, red was clearly out of question. After darkening the design with black pen, when the green fabric was positioned onto the design, the fabric being semi see-through, it was easier to draw on the fabric with a pencil. This design being chikan work/ shadow work also helped. The whole pattern was drawn on the wrong side of the fabric.

WIPW94-lemgrechik-4

WIPW94-lemgrechik-4

Marash embroidery
Marash embroidery on cream tunic with kalamkari patch. After working for some time on chikan embroidery. The Kutch/ Marash embroidery motifs were copied on to the brown fabric. It definitely took a while to complete this work. This is the first phase. After working the embroidery on the brown fabric, this embroidered piece, the cream tunic fabric and the kalamkari fabric patch will be given to the tailor, who would have to mark the neck and the sleeves on the cream fabric. Then the second phase will start. A small teaser of the Kutch/Marash design for this tunic.

WIPW94-crekalamkaripatkutch-2

WIPW94-crekalamkaripatkutch-2

The drawing of borders on sleeves and the tunic front  on 2mm  graph paper was completed for this white printed tunic. The idea is to work embroidery on green fabric with this thread.

WIPW94-whigremajekutch-1

WIPW94-whigremajekutch-1

Other projects
Two of my friends are interested in hand embroidery. Some embroidery design engineering was in progress this week for their respective projects. More details next week.

This chanderi fabric either in cotton or silk is available in Chennai, as running materials or sarees or dupattas or stoles. The patterns and colours are pleasing to the eyes. the cream printed fabric is chanderi silk.

crblchanderi-fabric

crblchanderi-fabric

The embroidery design was a small border to be worked in chain stitch. I am used to working with mirrors. We get numerous borders worked with mirror like discs which are light weight and can be attached to the fabric with silk threads. This design was inspired by a design on an antique pattern book.

crblchanderi-pattern

crblchanderi-pattern

Started the project with chain stitch in metallic gold thread.

cblchanderi-1

cblchanderi-1

Two chain stitch rows and the small triangular shape fillings in herringbone stitches were worked with red fine silk thread.

crblchanderi-2

crblchanderi-2

Another chain stitch outline and leaf stitches were worked with cream colour anchor skein.

crblchanderi-3

crblchanderi-3

Generally these discs are held with glue and the securing stitches are worked around the edge. Instead of using the glue the disc was held tightly to work the securing stitch in red fine silk thread. It did not pose a problem in this case.

crblchanderi-4

crblchanderi-4

Some gold beads were then attached to this embroidered piece.

crblchanderi-5

crblchanderi-5

The tunic

cream black chanderi silk tunic

cream black chanderi silk tunic

The tailor did a neat job. The detail-

crblchanderi-detail

crblchanderi-detail

A cream cotton fabric was used for lining this tunic.

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