yoke


I have been working on Beyond TAST challenge this week. A sampler motif with layering the stitches was completed. I borrowed some ideas from crewel embroidery, and incorporated them on my motif. The sampler is being continued with more of this technique with smaller details.
SSS challenge has been beckoning for the past few weeks, I am holding the temptation because of the time factor.
The idea of adding peach colour thread is being implemented on this old yoke. I should be able to complete it tomorrow.
WIPW175-peachtoyk-3
I will be happy to squeeze in some stitches from SSS challenge this week.

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The second part of the cream mirror work yoke starts with the cream tunic being short. It was not matching well with the striped salwar because of the length. An idea of attaching another fabric was considered and rejected. The new fabric might clash with the salwar again. So a decision was made to keep this tunic aside and a lavender colour fabric which will go well with the striped salwar was chosen on the last visit to India. The lavender fabric needed some embroidery. While browsing through the wardrobe, it seemed like a good idea to stitch this cream mirror work on to this lavender fabric. Tailor did a nice job of taking out the embroidered pieces and stitched them on to this lavender tunic. The gold beads had to go.
The sleeves on lavender tunic.
lavmirt-sleeves
The tunic with cream mirror work attached to the front.
lavender mirrorwork tunic

lavmirt
Now this piece does not have enough lavender elements. I started with working chain stitch in variegated silk thread inside the curves.
lavmirt-1
There was some unworked space near the shoulder. The embroidery was extended to cover the space. It was helpful to have a record of the thread colours worked earlier.
lavmirt-2
After working chain stitch with variegated thread, a line of stem stitch and up and down buttonhole stitch combination was worked beside the orange outline in antique violet thread.
lavmirt-3
To reduce the cream colour on fabric and enhance the lavender colour, small triangles were worked with herringbone filling.
lavmirt-4a
The yoke after working these triangles.
lavmirt-4b
The same idea of triangles worked in herringbone filling was extended to neck border too.
lavmirt-5
The completed yoke.
cream mirror work on lavender tunic
The tunic set is ready to wear now.

I have been working on this sewn tunic this week.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht
The kutchwork pattern was traced onto the tunic with white carbon. Not a very bright idea.
The pattern-
WIPW127.oryelkutcht-pat
When a time was conducive I started with brown thread. The design was very light after so many weeks. The brown thread in Chennai sunlight did not match so well as in Muscat indoor light. Still eager to start the project, I started with the basic stitches with brown thread. While working on it bought red and yellow threads. After ensuring the points are covered with brown thread, started with the yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-1
The basic stitches in brown are interlaced with red thread. This looks much better than the dull brown. Controlling the urge to work mirrors.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-2
The four motifs below the neck was worked in red thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-3
The pattern is now is worked with yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-4
The centre and other spaces are worked in half white thread. By this time the design from white carbon has completely vanished. This pattern was also drawn on 2mm graph paper.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-5
The project is completed without mirrors.
WIPW127-orange yellow chanderi kutch tunic
The embroidery detail-
WIPW127-orange yellow kutch tunic-det
The tunic looks nice even without the embroidery. An outline stitch around the neck would have been sufficient.
The 17th stitch on SSS challenge seems like an easy stitch. Started working on the sampler today.

This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally,  the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
sanchik-yokepat
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
sanchik-sleevepat
The threads used were-
sanchik-threads
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
sanchik-1
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
sanchik-2
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
sanchik-3
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
sanchik-yokedet
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
sanchik-sleeve-det
The detail of the tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic-det
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.

The randje per week chart was an easy one. I could complete it without any mistakes this week. Triangular feather is the stitch of this week on TAST challenge. the link to the samples on the blog was posted on FB group page.
Now moving on to the projects-
Marash embroidery
Pink kutchwork border on green
After working the back stitch outline with white thread on the yoke, the work continued on the sleeves again. I am yet to take the picture.

WIPW111-whigremajekutch-10

WIPW111-whigremajekutch-10

Orange and violet combo tunic
The small corner design was completed with green and dark pink. The domination of green is actually welcome now.

WIPW111-oraviocombokutch-7

WIPW111-oraviocombokutch-7

Copper mangalagiri tunic
The space inside the diamond shaped zari enclosure was filled with fly stitch variations in cream and the square herringbone stitches were worked in golden yellow skein.

WIPW111-coppatialmant-4

WIPW111-coppatialmant-4

Brown silk tunic
I had this brown silk fabric with for quite some time. An idea of coordinating this fabric with pale orange came a few weeks ago. The fabric is with the tailor for the marking of neck and front. This will be a simple embroidery in pale orange with cotton skein.

WIPW111-brooranget-1

WIPW111-brooranget-1

It took some time to work the alphabet chart on RPW 2016 challenge, but it was completed the next day.
We have two week’s stitches on TAST 2016 challenge. Both were worked earlier. Interesting variations of raised chain stitch over straight stitch rows. The link to the samples were posted on FB group.
Marash embroidery
Pink kutchwork border on green
This project is moving quite slow, because of the size of the squares. This pace is fine. The bigger diamonds are being worked with pink thread.

WIPW109-whigremajekutch-8

WIPW109-whigremajekutch-8

Orange and violet combo tunic
The same colour scheme on the sleeves is to be adopted for rest of the embroidery on this orange and violet combo tunic. Starting with orange and yellow on this corner design.

WIPW109-oraviocombokutch-6

WIPW109-oraviocombokutch-6

The beadwork on the beige tunic with mirrors was completed.
Last week a copper mangalagiri fabric with zari border was given to the tailor to be sewn as a tunic for a readymade Patiala. It came back with a very creative yoke made of zari borders. This is definitely a surprise. But still not sure whether it is pleasant or unpleasant. Something needs to be done, with an idea- if it works, fine. If it doesn’t, the front can be concealed by the dupatta.

WIPW109-coppatialamant-2

WIPW109-coppatialamant-2

But the tailor seemed quite thrilled with his innovation.

This is the second tunic with lemon green and white combination. This summer these two colours were predominant in the tunic embroidery projects.
The fabric is handloom cotton and the embroidery was done with white cotton skein and some details worked in white perle cotton #8. There are two design elements. The first element is borders which were worked on the sleeves.

lemgrechi-sleeves

lemgrechi-sleeves

The same border design was worked around the neck.

lemgrechi-neck

lemgrechi-neck

These designs were drawn by hand with a foot ruler. The pattern was drawn on the wrong side of the cloth and embroidery was also worked on the wrong side. The fabric being see-through, was placed on the pattern and the floral design was traced with a pencil.
Started the embroidery in the centre.

lemgrechi-1

lemgrechi-1

The work in progress of the floral design. The shadow work/ chikan work/ closed herringbone was worked with four strands of cotton skein. I felt the thickness of the thread will make the embroidery more prominent.

lemgrechi-wip

lemgrechi-wip

After working the herringbone stitches in cotton skein, white perle cotton# 8 was used to work the straight stitches inside the petals. These straight stitches were worked on the right side of the fabric.

lemgrechi-2

lemgrechi-2

The last detail of French knots worked on the flowers.

lemgrechi-3

lemgrechi-3

After the completion of the embroidery the fabric was given to tailor for sewing. The tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

The detail.

lemon green chikan-det

lemon green chikan-det

It has been a while since I have done chikan work embroidery. It is easy to work, that’s a blessing. The embroidery needs to cover fairly a large area because of the subtlety of the work and the colours used. The pattern-

lemgrechi-pattern

lemgrechi-pattern

This tunic does not have lining. If required a slip can be used. I have one in this green. Sometimes it is hard to get lining fabric in cotton in this place. Since a polyester fabric will take away the comfort factor, it is better to go without a lining.

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