tunics 2011


Whenever a tunic made of two or more fabrics it inspires me to design something ethnic. With this purpose in mind two fabrics were chosen. They were block printed with vegetable dye.
Sometimes the colour of the dyes gives the print a name- kalamkari. Kalam means pen. kari means work. I have seen a kalamkari artisan drawing on a fabric.
The fabrics of this tunic was commercially block printed with the same vegetable dyes. The tunic was made of three panels, the centre in olive green and the sides in indigo. And the sleeves were also in olive green.
The kutchwork patterns were individually drawn for the centre and the sleeves with spaces for mirrors.
The detail of the sleeves.
The pattern-

oligreenindigokutch-sleevepattern

oligreenindigokutch-sleevepattern

The kutchwork was done in medium pink on dark blue fabric. The mirrors were worked in light blue thread. All the intersecting squares were worked in the first stage.

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip1

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip1

The outlining journey and interlacing

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip2

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip2

The olive green squares in chain stitch

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip3

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip3

The completed sleeve panels

oligreenindigokuthcsleeves

oligreenindigokuthcsleeves

The details of the yoke and the tunic on my next post.

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I had seen contrasting printed fabric used as sleeve border and yoke on some tunics.  the tunic looked very elegant.They had used block printed fabrics for applique. The tunic fabrics were neutral in colours with minimal pattern on them.
I had a woven ikat cotton fabric in navy blue. Instead of using printed fabric, I chose fabric in light green[?]  to work a square kutchwork motif for the yoke.
The motif pattern –

blikkw-pattern

blikkw-pattern

Three strands of navy blue cotton skein was used for the motif, white and dull gold colour threads were used for the outlines.

blikkw-yoke

blikkw-yoke

The same yoke fabric was used for the sleeve borders too without the embroidery. The tunic-

blue ikat with kutchwork yoke

blue ikat with kutchwork yoke

I was not too happy with the fabric chosen for the yoke and sleeves. With this tunic fabric, there were many choices better than this. Maybe, I wanted to use this fabric for something and it ended up with this tunic. I wear this tunic with blue jeans.

This tunic fabric is block printed cotton.

orseqyk-br-fabric

orseqyk-br-fabric

I was bored of looking at this fabric without getting any ideas for embroidery. I felt the colour was too dull to work anything worthwhile on it. I came across this bright orange printed fabric leftover after using on a yoke, which gave me the idea for this yoke.
A simple embellishment of attaching two rows of square antique gold sequins completed this yoke.

orseqyk-br-yoke

orseqyk-br-yoke

The orange fabric was attached to the sleeves without the sequins.

orange sequin yoke on brown

orange sequin yoke on brown

This tunic is now my favourite piece, which I often wear with dark or light brown trousers.

The embroidery on this mirror yoke is further worked in blue and yellow .
The small triangle shapes around the mirrors were filled with chain stitches in medium blue colour.

ge&bl-miryk-2

ge&bl-miryk-2

The mirrors are always worked in the last stage, because it is difficult to work with embroidery loop after working the mirrors. The mirror shapes are outlined in chain stitch in lemon yellow thread.[my idea at this stage was to buy a yellow printed fabric for the tunic]

gr&bl miryk-3

gr&bl miryk-3

The yoke looked like this after working the mirrors.one mirror caught the flash!

gr&bl miryk-4

gr&bl miryk-4

Another view without flash.

gr&bl miryk-5

gr&bl miryk-5

I couldn’t get the right fabric in blue or yellow for this yoke, tried swing towards white with black prints and settled at last on dark green ikat fabric with blue and yellow streaks on its weave. I was not sure whether this fabric will suit the young girl, but she loved it and I was happy!

This is a simple yoke with mirrors. The yoke fabric is mangalagiri cotton in yellow/green. The embroidery is done with cotton skeins. This was for my friend’s daughter. Idea was to work with bright colours and I also liked this green and blue combination.
The pattern-

grbl miryk-pattern

grbl miryk-pattern

Chain stitch outlines were worked with three strands of light blue thread.

grbl-miryk-1

grbl-miryk-1

Medium size mirrors were attached in the central spaces. Small antique gold beads went along with the colour scheme, so they were worked inside the kutchwork motifs.

crky-br-6

crky-br-6

Cream thread was used extensively for outlines and for embellishing the flowers with straight and fly stitches. Small mirrors were worked inside the flowers.

crky-br-7

crky-br-7

The completed tunic-

cream kutchwork on brown tunic-1

cream kutchwork on brown tunic-1

The neck detail

crky-br-tunic2

crky-br-tunic2

The tunic set-

cream kutchwork on brown tunic set

cream kutchwork on brown tunic set

The experiment of drawing freeform kutchwork was quite rewarding in this tunic. I may try this idea in future, but not immediately! The colour scheme with mirrors also enhanced this yoke pattern.

Satin stitches were worked on the patterns over the paisley on both sides in green metallic thread.

crky-br-3

crky-br-3

After outlining these shapes, light copper colour silk thread was used to fill the flowers [petals?]

crky-br-4

crky-br-4

Since, I couldn’t get away from geometric kutch motif, it was worked with red thread with a space for working a big mirror!

crky-br-5

crky-br-5

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