tunics 2011


printed crepe silk stole.

gold black zardosi-stole

gold black zardosi-stole

A silk fabric in antique gold colour was bought to match with this stole, my sister in law chose this. I drew a traditional Indian pattern for this. The idea was to work gold metallic thread, beads and zardosi tubes on this pattern.

gold black zardosi-pattern

gold black zardosi-pattern

Black, green and pink colour threads were used for embroidery.

gold black zardosi-wip

gold black zardosi-wip

The embroidery was worked with back stitches, chain stitches, stem stitch fillings and bead stitches.

gold black zardosi-yoke

gold black zardosi-yoke

The embroidery with stole

gold black zardosi-with stole

gold black zardosi-with stole

The tunic

gold black zardosi-tunic

gold black zardosi-tunic

The zardosi work done on this tunic is very minimal. This work is the mixture of   thread embroidery, metallic thread , beads and zardosi beads. The traditional Indian patterns lend themselves to zardosi work. The tunic is worn with black salwar.

I wanted a yoke pattern made of woven kutchwork motif and borders. I had this hand woven dupatta [scarf] in purple with checked pattern. The tunic with which it was matched was long gone.
Actually I took pictures while working the different motifs, but the size of the motifs were too small, that the weaving and interlacing wouldn’t have been very clear. But if any of the motifs were found interesting, I can share the details. All the motifs and the borders were worked with woven kutchwork.
The tunic

purple tunic woven kutchwork-tunic

purple tunic woven kutchwork-tunic

The detail of the yoke, I added some light colour wooden beads for embellishments, they were not necessary.

purple tunic woven kutch- pattern

purple tunic woven kutch- pattern

The yoke pattern on graph.

purple tunic woven kutch-pattern

purple tunic woven kutch-pattern

Before working the mirrors and the stones, the outlines have to be dealt with. The outline for the stones were worked in back stitch.

mirrors and stones on black/blue tunic-wip2

mirrors and stones on black/blue tunic-wip2

After working the chain stitch outline, the mirrors were stitched on to the motif.

mirrors and stones on black/blue -wip3

mirrors and stones on black/blue -wip3

Work in progress on the stones

mirrors and stones on black/blue-wip4

mirrors and stones on black/blue-wip4

The completion of the work on this motif

mirrors and stones on black/blue-completed motif

mirrors and stones on black/blue-completed motif

Generally I don’t instruct the tailor on neck patterns, so this was his choice. I placed the sleeves beside the motif, while taking this picture.

mirrors and stones on black /blue tunic

mirrors and stones on black /blue tunic

I wear a black salwar or blue leggings with this tunic.

This tunic has two fabrics, black spun cotton for the body of the tunic and printed chanderi cotton for the sleeves. The sleeve fabric-

mirrors stones on black/blue tunic-sleeve fabric

mirrors stones on black/blue tunic-sleeve fabric

I drew a medium sized motif from the print of the sleeve fabric.

mirrors stones on black,blue tunic-pattern

mirrors stones on black,blue tunic-pattern

The pattern was copied on the black cloth-

mirror stones on black,blue tunic-pat on cloth

mirror stones on black,blue tunic-pat on cloth

The idea was to work the motif in one colour-the sleeve fabric colour-blue. The mirrors worked with the same thread and the stones were also blue. Started with the feather stitch variation and chain stitch outlines for the mirrors.

mirrors stone son black blue tunic-wip1

mirrors stone son black blue tunic-wip1

The colour of this georgette fabric is a mixture of maroon and dark blue. Because of this it looks like violet. But the colour varies under different lights. It  has zari dots all over. I felt, to embellish this tunic, metallic gold was vital. Instead of working with it, the yoke fabric was itself gold colour satin fabric.
 

maroon blue georgette tunic

maroon blue georgette tunic

A simple traditional Indian pattern was drawn for this embroidery.
 

maroon blue georgette tunic-yoke

maroon blue georgette tunic-yoke

The yoke pattern-
 

maroon blue georgette tunic-yoke pattern

maroon blue georgette tunic-yoke pattern

The sleeves-
 

maroon blue georgette tunic-sleeves

maroon blue georgette tunic-sleeves

The simple pattern of scallops-
 

maroon blue georgette tunic-sleeve pattern

maroon blue georgette tunic-sleeve pattern

On reflection, I could have refrained from using the dark pink beads. They are too big for this work with silk threads. They are really popping out of the embroidery. It was done in the last leg, when I was keen to finish the work, rather than search for other suitable embellishments. This tunic being quite festive looking, maybe I can wear a net dupatta [scarf] to subdue the effect.  And I learnt a lesson.

I wear a indigo blue salwar[readymade] to match this tunic.

kutch work on olive green and indigo tunic

kutch work on olive green and indigo tunic

The sleeves also have a lace border.

kutchwork on olive green and indigo tunic-sleeves

kutchwork on olive green and indigo tunic-sleeves

The yoke with indigo blue pipin.

kutchwork on olive green and indigo tunic-yoke

kutchwork on olive green and indigo tunic-yoke

Though the sleeves has a continuous kutchwork pattern, the yoke pattern can be worked with many colours, the yoke pattern can also be used for sleeves and shoulder panels. just suggesting some ideas.
I tried medium pink thread and light blue to work the embroidery. I would like to see other combinations, or maybe some better colours used on this olive green and indigo fabric.
If someone tries, please post the link on the comments.
The tunic fabric, since it is handloom and vegetable dyed, feels so comfortable on the skin [especially during hot humid summer] and the fabric also drapes well.

this is simple kutchwork pattern to work. try it and if it poses a problem, state them  on the comments. let me see if  can do anything about it.

Happy stitching.

The simplified version of the sleeve kutchwork work pattern was drawn for the centre.

oligreenindigokutch-pattern

oligreenindigokutch-pattern

The inside part of the three squares were worked first. The picture shows the working on the outer edges, this was done in one continuous journey for each element.

oligreenindigokutch-yokewip1

oligreenindigokutch-yokewip1

After completing the interlacing on the pattern-

oligreenindigokutch-yokewip2

oligreenindigokutch-yokewip2

The outline for the mirrors done in chain stitch.

oligreenindigokutch-yokewip3

oligreenindigokutch-yokewip3

The yoke after working the mirrors in light blue.

oligreenindigokutch-yoke

oligreenindigokutch-yoke

The sewn tunic on my next post.

Whenever a tunic made of two or more fabrics it inspires me to design something ethnic. With this purpose in mind two fabrics were chosen. They were block printed with vegetable dye.
Sometimes the colour of the dyes gives the print a name- kalamkari. Kalam means pen. kari means work. I have seen a kalamkari artisan drawing on a fabric.
The fabrics of this tunic was commercially block printed with the same vegetable dyes. The tunic was made of three panels, the centre in olive green and the sides in indigo. And the sleeves were also in olive green.
The kutchwork patterns were individually drawn for the centre and the sleeves with spaces for mirrors.
The detail of the sleeves.
The pattern-

oligreenindigokutch-sleevepattern

oligreenindigokutch-sleevepattern

The kutchwork was done in medium pink on dark blue fabric. The mirrors were worked in light blue thread. All the intersecting squares were worked in the first stage.

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip1

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip1

The outlining journey and interlacing

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip2

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip2

The olive green squares in chain stitch

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip3

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip3

The completed sleeve panels

oligreenindigokuthcsleeves

oligreenindigokuthcsleeves

The details of the yoke and the tunic on my next post.

I had seen contrasting printed fabric used as sleeve border and yoke on some tunics.  the tunic looked very elegant.They had used block printed fabrics for applique. The tunic fabrics were neutral in colours with minimal pattern on them.
I had a woven ikat cotton fabric in navy blue. Instead of using printed fabric, I chose fabric in light green[?]  to work a square kutchwork motif for the yoke.
The motif pattern –

blikkw-pattern

blikkw-pattern

Three strands of navy blue cotton skein was used for the motif, white and dull gold colour threads were used for the outlines.

blikkw-yoke

blikkw-yoke

The same yoke fabric was used for the sleeve borders too without the embroidery. The tunic-

blue ikat with kutchwork yoke

blue ikat with kutchwork yoke

I was not too happy with the fabric chosen for the yoke and sleeves. With this tunic fabric, there were many choices better than this. Maybe, I wanted to use this fabric for something and it ended up with this tunic. I wear this tunic with blue jeans.

This tunic fabric is block printed cotton.

orseqyk-br-fabric

orseqyk-br-fabric

I was bored of looking at this fabric without getting any ideas for embroidery. I felt the colour was too dull to work anything worthwhile on it. I came across this bright orange printed fabric leftover after using on a yoke, which gave me the idea for this yoke.
A simple embellishment of attaching two rows of square antique gold sequins completed this yoke.

orseqyk-br-yoke

orseqyk-br-yoke

The orange fabric was attached to the sleeves without the sequins.

orange sequin yoke on brown

orange sequin yoke on brown

This tunic is now my favourite piece, which I often wear with dark or light brown trousers.

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