2012 tunics


This mirror work yoke was done in 2012. The idea was to have a filing pattern made of mirrors. I had small and big square mirrors which were ideal for drawing the pattern on 2mm graph paper.

100 mirror yk-pattern

100 mirror yk-pattern

The tunic was deep red with block printed yellow motifs. Deep red fabric was chosen to work mirrors. Two colours were based on the tunic- deep red and yellow. Green colour was also added to give it and full Indian ethnic look. The outlines were done in chain stitch. The detail.

100 mirroryk-detail

100 mirroryk-detail

I wear a yellow leggings with this short tunic otherwise called short kurthi. The tunic-

100 mirror yoke tunic

100 mirror yoke tunic

when I counted the number of mirrors on the pattern,it came to 100, so the name stuck.

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Many days this salwar fabric was lying on my closet without any design ideas. This fabric is kalamkari block printed cotton.

peach kalamkari tunic- salwar

peach kalamkari tunic- salwar

A plain peach mercerized cotton fabric matched with the paisley outlines. A plain tunic gives opportunity for embroidery.

peach kalamkari tunic

peach kalamkari tunic

A simple embroidery pattern for the front of the tunic with an idea of herringbone filling was drawn. The embroidery was worked with cotton skeins. Maroon and shades of green thread were used for herringbone filling stitches. The outlines were done in beige thread [salwar fabric colour] in back stitch. Small wooden beads were used for embellishing the inner border.

peach kalamkari tunic- emb detail

peach kalamkari tunic- emb detail

When I wear this set, the tunic seems to outshine the salwar. The vegetable dyes fabrics tend to look dull, but are really cool [I mean for summer]

The tunic fabric is white cotton printed with white motifs. The prints are not seen from far, but looks lovely when looked closely. A white pin tuck cotton fabric with pink floral print was chosen for salwar,

white pink Kashmiri work-salwar

white pink Kashmiri work-salwar

The idea of this pattern was to fill up traditional Indian motif patterns with Kashmiri embroidery. There are three types of Kashmiri embroidery. This type is chain stitch filling. I wanted isolated symmetrical motifs to form this front panel. The pattern in two parts.

white pink Kashmiri work-pat1

white pink Kashmiri work-pat1

The bottom part-

white pink Kashmiri work-pat2

white pink Kashmiri work-pat2

The embroidery as mentioned earlier was chain stitch filling. The darkest pink was the first colour to be used.

white pink Kashmiri work- WIP

white pink Kashmiri work- WIP

The embroidery detail around the neck.

white pink Kashmiri work- embdet1

white pink Kashmiri work- embdet1

The rest of the embroidery details.

white pink Kashmiri work-embdet2

white pink Kashmiri work-embdet2

The tunic set.

white pink Kashmiri work-set

white pink Kashmiri work-set

The sleeves are bordered with salwar fabric.

white pink kshmiri work-tunic

white pink kashmiri work-tunic

I like this idea for two reasons, the embroidery filling and the space between the embroidery, which shows the white fabric. it was not easy to draw this pattern, still it was worth the time and effort put into it.

I like working Indian ethnic embroidery on traditional Indian designs. The motifs are ideal for working zardosi work, chikan work, kantha work, Kashmiri work. I worked zardosi embroidery on this tunic. The pattern-

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic-pattern

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic-pattern

Cotton skeins were used to work the embroidery. Stitches worked were, stem, chain and french knots.

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic- embroidery

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic- embroidery

After attaching the zardosi beads and stones-

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic- zardosi work

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic- zardosi work

Yoke detail on tunic-

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic

I wear a salwar on deep violet [same as the yoke fabric] with this tunic. A synthetic crepe dupatta in violet completes the outfit.
The fabric and print did not require any embroidery. when I was in a mood for some zardosi work, this tunic got hit!

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic

cream violet crepe zardosi tunic

I had this lovely plain blue linen tunic. Though the colour and the fabric was good, it was too plain. I wanted an embroidery which will not subdue the blue.
I had heard that, when mirrors are worked with lighter tint of the base colour, it adds elegance to the piece.
Merging these two ideas, a pattern for using small square mirrors was drawn on graph paper [76 mirrors]. The mirror fitted exactly within 1 cm square.

mirror on blue linen-pattern

mirror on blue linen-pattern

The outlines were worked in light blue silk thread, and the mirrors were stitched in cotton skeins.the embroidery details.

mirror on blue linen-emb detail

mirror on blue linen-emb detail

The tunic-

mirror on blue linen tunic

mirror on blue linen tunic

I recently bought a printed white salwar with blue[same blue] and light green florals. The tunic and the salwar match well.
I did not post the details of some of these tunics when they were worked. The details of the work when it was in progress are not available for these tunics. I am sharing the pattern and the completed tunics.

I saw a plain tunic with broad woven border. The border was in cream or half white and woven in black. The shop said it was a Bagh border which was attached to the tunic. They had also done some kantha embroidery in black on the border. This inspired me to design a border with geometric patterns which can be worked with kantha embroidery.
Thought a plain tussar fabric would be ideal for this.

bagh border on coptunic-fabric

bagh border on coptunic-fabric

The yoke pattern

bagh border on coptunic-yoke pattern

bagh border on coptunic-yoke pattern

The sleeve pattern, it is really broad!

bagh border on coptunic-sleeve pattern

bagh border on coptunic-sleeve pattern

These patterns were traced on to cream cotton fabric with yellow carbon. The embroidered yoke-

bagh border on coptunic-y1

bagh border on coptunic-y1

I wanted a black border around the yoke. The embroidered yoke along with black fabric placed on tunic fabric.

bagh border on coptunic-y2

bagh border on coptunic-y2

The embroidered sleeves.

bagh border on coptunic-emb on sleeves

bagh border on coptunic-emb on sleeves

The embroidery was done in black cotton skeins. I used the running stitch on the kantha embroidery to obtain the woven effect. For the fly stitches on both ends of the borders I used four strands and rest of the embroidery was done with two strands.
The tailor added some pin tucks on both sides of the yoke. The detail of the yoke-

bagh border on coptunic-yoke detail

bagh border on coptunic-yoke detail

The tunic-

bagh border on copper tunic

bagh border on copper tunic

This tunic fabric is  printed chanderi silk cotton in maroon colour.

maroon chanderi zardosi-fabric

maroon chanderi zardosi-fabric

I wanted to work zardosi embroidery with stones on a golden colour fabric. This tunic was ideal for my design. A neckline based on traditional Indian design with scope for zardosi beads, stones and novelty beads was drawn on paper.

maroon chanderi zardosi-pattern

maroon chanderi zardosi-pattern

After embroidering with silk [maroon] and metallic [gold] threads, embellishments – round and soft rectangular gold beads, white stones, gold zardosi beads- were added to this pattern on golden colour synthetic fabric. The detail-

maroon chanderi ardosi-embroidery detail

maroon chanderi ardosi-embroidery detail

I wear a maroon salwar and dupatta for this tunic. This tunic actually does not need any value addition at all. Still I enjoyed embroidering this piece, I like the subdued effect of the embellishments.

maroon chanderi zardosi-tunic

maroon chanderi zardosi-tunic

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