tunic


The story of this yoke starts with this striped cotton fabric.
cremirt-salwar
Thinking all these colours can be used for embroidery on a cream base, a cream cotton fabric was chosen for the tunic. This cream mangalagiri handloom cotton fabric was given to the tailor for marking the front and sleeves.

And  a simple border design was embroidered on the sleeves.
cremirt-sleeves
The pattern for the same.
cremirt-pats
The embroidery for this mirror work started with green colour skein. The mirror outlines were worked n chain stitch, the curls were worked in stem stitch and the leaves in leaf stitch.
cremirt-1
The second stage was to work the orange colour skein. Chain stitches and buttonhole stitches were worked with this thread.
cremirt-2
Next in line was the antique violet colour skein. The triangles around the neck were worked in buttonhole stitches and the second mirror outlines were worked in chain stitch.
cremirt-3
The last outline around mirrors were worked in polyester gold colour thread.
cremirt-4
The diamond shaped mirrors were outlined with variegated polyester thread.
cremirt-5
The remaining chain stitch outlines were worked in yellow colour skein.
cremirt-6
The same yellow skein was used for working all the mirrors.
cremirt-7
Oval shaped gold bead was the last detail to be worked on this embroidery.
cremirt-8
The pattern for this yoke.
cremirt-paty
The completed tunic.
cream mirror work tunic
This was the story of this tunic in 2014. After two and a half years, the same yoke became a part of another tunic. Which will be narrated later.

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We are back in Muscat slowly flowing into routine. I am better now.
The SSS challenge and TAST challenge both have new stitches to work. The upright cross stitch is an easy one. I hoping to start on it tomorrow. After that I have to work on beaded oyster stitch on TAST challenge.
Before returning to Muscat, I managed to work on my friend’s saree. A kutch work line along the width of the saree, which could be more than 40 inches.
WIPW132-broeles&b-3
The detail of the embroidery.
WIPW132-broeles&b-4
The kutchwork line in two colours was worked on the sleeves of the blouse also.
WIPW132-broeles&b-5
Nothing else was done other than this project and packing in Chennai, India. I have unpacked the fabrics bought in Chennai. Phew!! Some or most of them would require embroidery, which would be looked into during the next week. Lots of work to do.

I am two days late in posting the works in progress. It is hard to remember the days in Chennai. After completing the Q stitch on SSS challenge, a project on silk blouse was done during this week. This blouse fabric had a wide gold border. My neighbour wanted some simple embroidery with stones and beads. Started the embroidery work with chain stitch in green silk thread.
WIPW128-peachb-1
Another chain stitch row with gold thread.
WIPW128-peachb-2
The saree is also the same peach silk with gold border. We could get dark red stone, the medium red stones did not match well with the richness of the silk fabric. Therefore chain stitches in red silk thread was worked on the semi circles created by green chain stitch row. The dark red stones were to be stitched here. I was hoping to subdue the colour of the stone to match with the fabric.
WIPW128-peachb-3
A small motif in gold was scattered here and there on the saree. I tried work a motif in gold thread and beads. After working the red stones and gold beads.
WIPW128-peachb-4
My friend who was sewing this blouse for her sister, wanted white stones on this project. I started with the white stones hoping it would go well with the beads, red stones and embroidery.
WIPW128-peachb-5
Embroidery completed on both the sleeves of this peach silk blouse.
WIPW128-peach blouse
Another blouse is also there which needs to be embroidered.
WIPW128-viopinb-1
Before starting the work on this blouse, I want to work whipped spoke stitch sampler for TAST challenge.

I have been working on this sewn tunic this week.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht
The kutchwork pattern was traced onto the tunic with white carbon. Not a very bright idea.
The pattern-
WIPW127.oryelkutcht-pat
When a time was conducive I started with brown thread. The design was very light after so many weeks. The brown thread in Chennai sunlight did not match so well as in Muscat indoor light. Still eager to start the project, I started with the basic stitches with brown thread. While working on it bought red and yellow threads. After ensuring the points are covered with brown thread, started with the yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-1
The basic stitches in brown are interlaced with red thread. This looks much better than the dull brown. Controlling the urge to work mirrors.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-2
The four motifs below the neck was worked in red thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-3
The pattern is now is worked with yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-4
The centre and other spaces are worked in half white thread. By this time the design from white carbon has completely vanished. This pattern was also drawn on 2mm graph paper.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-5
The project is completed without mirrors.
WIPW127-orange yellow chanderi kutch tunic
The embroidery detail-
WIPW127-orange yellow kutch tunic-det
The tunic looks nice even without the embroidery. An outline stitch around the neck would have been sufficient.
The 17th stitch on SSS challenge seems like an easy stitch. Started working on the sampler today.

I am in Chennai, India for vacation. Embroidery is not part of this routine. Still some small assignments are worked in between other work. This tunic was worked in the summer of 2016.
After working two tunics in lemon green and white combination some pieces of lemon green fabric was lying around. A kutchwork embroidery seemed like a good idea. There was this tunic fabric in half white cotton block printed with the same colour.
whigremajekutch-f
I wanted to add another colour to this white. A medium majenta thread was chosen.
whigremajekutch-f2
Drawing diagonal kutchwork on 2mm graph paper gives a dainty look. The border pattern-
whigremajekutch-pb
The pattern below the neck-
whigremajekutch-py
I started with the first sleeve border.
whigremajekutch-1
Making the anchoring stiches was not so difficult. Care was required to work the stitch at the precise point and moving over or under the thread had to be accurate. The interlacing was not so easy, because of the daintiness of the pattern.
whigremajekutch-2
This is the same story in the second part of the journey, still it was better to work the outer squares.
whigremajekutch-3
Instead of looking for another colour, the single line kutch border was worked in green. An idea of working this border in white was considered and rejected.
whigremajekutch-4
I moved on to the yoke at this point. The kutch work in green thread.
whigremajekutch-y1
The basic kutch squares worked in majenta.
whigremajekutch-y2
Worked the border in majenta and the back stitch outline was worked in white. This piece was completed.
whigremajekutch-y3
The border on another sleeve was worked.
whigremajekutch-5
The embroidered pieces and the tunic fabric was given for sewing.

white green majenta kutch tunic
The detail.
white green majenta kutch tunic-det
After a while, a cotton fabric with same lemon colour tones was bought for salwar [ Indian  pants].
white green majenta kutch tunic-salwar
I wore this tunic set last week. It was cool.

This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally,  the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
sanchik-yokepat
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
sanchik-sleevepat
The threads used were-
sanchik-threads
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
sanchik-1
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
sanchik-2
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
sanchik-3
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
sanchik-yokedet
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
sanchik-sleeve-det
The detail of the tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic-det
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.

The tunic fabric is soft cotton, the dark blue fabric is cotton crepe. the project started in 2015 and completed now in May 2016.This is the first project where these two concepts were tried for the first time. A form of Indian ethnic embroidery and mix of blue and orange.

orawhblgret-fabric

orawhblgret-fabric

It was hard to conceive the idea of mixing orange and blue together. But there were too many eye candies which nurtured this and a time came when I wanted to try this. An ethnic embroidery pattern which was predominantly done in chain stitch and mirror work was seen on a wall hanging. This piece had other forms of ethnic embroidery too. A border was worked with this detail.

orawhblgret-1

orawhblgret-1

The basic floral design was worked completely in chain stitch with green thread.

orawhblgret-2

orawhblgret-2

The outline was worked in dark blue thread. Till this time the dark blue fabric was to be coordinated with this tunic. Eventually it changed,

orawhblgret-3

orawhblgret-3

With the fabric colour being white, last of the chain stitches were worked in white.

orawhblgret-4

orawhblgret-4

Round mirrors were worked in light blue thread.
At this stage, coordinating the dark blue with this tunic was not looking very good. So the project was kept aside to be given to the tailor later. A light blue Patiala was bought, which coordinated better with this tunic.

orange yoke on white blue green tunic

orange yoke on white blue green tunic

The tailor worked an ideal way of sewing this skewed striped fabric. The result is lovely,

orawhblgret-det1

orawhblgret-det1

The embroidery detail on tunic.

orawhblgret-det2

orawhblgret-det2

The pattern for this embroidery.

orawhblgret-pattern

orawhblgret-pattern

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