phulkari


The green yoke for white/pink printed tunic was completed this week. It was easy working along the stripes.

WIPW62-whipinkgreen3

WIPW62-whipinkgreen3

After completing the embroidery, white sequins were added to these linear stitches.
This ready to wear Patiala salwar was bought on my previous trip to Chennai.

WIPW62-blugreen patiala1

WIPW62-blugreen patiala1

A dark blue fabric was chosen for the tunic. The pattern is inspired by ethnic Indian embroidery. Lots of spaces to be filled with herringbone stitches! The thread colours are plucked from the Patiala with an addition of white and pink. The embroidery on 3 cm borders for the sleeves and sides are started.

WIPW62-blugreenpatiala2

WIPW62-blugreenpatiala2

My kutchwork border designs are moving very slowly, so nothing much to report there.

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These are samples to further explore embroidery borders worked on separate cloth, and are later attached to the tunics.

eonwb-5

eonwb-5

In this ikat mercerized cotton tunic, Black work embroidery border is worked on aida cloth. This easy in the sense, the pattern tracing is totally avoided. Cross stitch, black work, kasuti , chicken scratch embroideries can be worked on aida, matti or any other fabric with checks, dots. Measure the length of the border required and start the embroidery.

eonwb-6a

eonwb-6a

These are mirrorwork/ phulkari borders done on dark blue fabric. These are for sleeves. note the extra space on either sides for the seam allowance.

eonwb-6b

eonwb-6b

The same embroidered border along with a small motif attached to a Bengal cotton tunic. I did not attempt the neck because the tunic fabric is fine count cotton, the mirrors and embroidery might have weighed down the neck.

eonwb-7

eonwb-7

The tunic fabric is cotton ikat. The same black work border notion is elaborated here. The length of the tunic below the neck, the sleeves, two panels on the sides were measured. The black work pattern was drawn on black mangalagiri cotton fabric. And the embroidery was done with threads and some silver beads. The pattern tracing was in full swing for this tunic!

eonwb-8

eonwb-8

This tunic is a recycled tunic. Meaning, the embroidery on the green fabric was done on another tunic, which became too tight. So these borders were attached to this violet mangalagiri tunic.
This is the first level in embroidering on wearable. The focus is on colour coordination, pattern choices and the embroidery itself. And this is an attempt to give an idea to start .These borders are faster to work, and chances of making mistakes are minimal and they are also easily rectifiable. It is better to start with small borders.

Once we are comfortable working this we can move on to drawing the neckline on paper.

To understand how the posting this work in progress is helpful, visit Pintangle. I completed last week’s TAST stitch.
The hussif was taken out and kept back, when a mistake was found on the black work filling. It’ll be hard enough to pull out the waste canvas, so the option to rectify the mistake is out, just have to think of something to work over the flaw.
The black yoke was completed with phukari embroidery.

19.wipwednesdays-whgreytunic3

19.wipwednesdays-whgreytunic3

The earlier worked edges were completed on Randje per week challenge.

19.wipwednesdays-rpw 13,14

19.wipwednesdays-rpw 13,14

The yellow tunic with chanderi silk cotton sleeves in its full glory.

19.wipwednesdays-yctunic

19.wipwednesdays-yctunic

Gujarati ethnic embroidery  was drawn for a  cream tunic with  multi coloured striped salwar fabric. The tailor has to mark the place for front and sleeves. The routine of working on the journal was maintained this week.

The tunic fabric is woven ikat in tussar silk.

phulkari on blue ikat-fabric

phulkari on blue ikat-fabric

I liked the fabric design and colour. It also has a Florentine border, commonly referred to as temple border. It is ideal for saree, blouse and tops. To go with this geometrical theme, I drew a pattern on graph paper.

phulkari on blue ikat-pattern

phulkari on blue ikat-pattern

I wanted the embroidery to look like weave, so I chose phulkari embroidery, embroidery from Punjab, a state in India. In phulkari embroidery, the geometrical designs are filled with surface satin stitches. This embroidery is done on stoles, tunics, shawls, sarees and furnishings.
A light green fabric was chosen to do this work. The tunic-

phulkari on blue ikat-tunic

phulkari on blue ikat-tunic

These extra elements were added –chain stitch outline in pink, back stitch outlines in white to differentiate the degrees of the blue colour, and small white pearls for embellishment.

phulkari on blue ikat-embroidery detail

phulkari on blue ikat-embroidery detail

The border of the tunic fabric was sewn on the sleeves and the front part of the tunic. The fillings were not easy to work, if looked closely, the embroidery does not look very neat. Still it was fine as a project.

The embroidery is very simple on this block printed dark pink tunic. The fabric is cotton. Surprisingly, the fabric seems to retain its colour even after bleeding quite a bit.

pink blue fabric

pink blue fabric

The pattern was evenly placed small triangles worked in surface satin stitch with two strands of cotton skein.  This can be categorized as phulkari embroidery of Punjab, India with a modern  application.The yoke placed over the tunic fabric.

pink blue yoke

pink blue yoke

The sewn tunic, the tailor is creative here in designing the neck line similar to the block print pattern.

pink blue tunic

pink blue tunic

The geometric motif for this tunic is worked in phulkari embroidery.
This embroidery is part of ethnic Indian embroideries.it is done in Punjab part of India and Pakistan too. In those parts the whole fabric is covered with embroidery. But I have chosen to work this embroidery on a square motif for this yoke space.
The motif with the second thread-yellow-

greephulyk-2

Combination of green and brown thread-

greephulyk-3

Two strands of skeins are used for this embroidery.

This tunic fabric is block printed with florals in cotton. This type  of light cottons are ideal for hot climates, and suitable for casual wear, with these prints. the base colour of this tunic is yellow/brown. The flowers were on shades of red.
The yoke fabric chosen for this tunic was green/yellow. Four repeating geometric motifs was the pattern to be embroidered. This is a small yoke. the colours used were, green, yellow, variegated red and white. The variegated red thread was silk and others were cotton skeins.
the motifs with medium green colour thread-

greephul-1

The embroidery stitches were, surface satin stitch, Rhodes stitch for the centre, and straight stitches.

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