neck pattern


This is the last past of the series in hand embroidery on wearable. In this post we’ll consider some ideas of designing embroidery on tunics which are marked for necklines and sleeves. By this method it is possible to work any type of embroidery of our choice on wearable. Ready to wear tunics are made this way on large scale.
The fabrics are marked for necklines, sleeves, slits, shoulders, borders. The chosen embroidery designs are transferred on to the fabrics. These fabrics are secured on big rectangular embroidery frames. The embroidery is done by embroiderers trained for this. After the embroidery is completed, the fabrics are taken away from the frames and sewn by tailors.
But we can do it on a small scale. After choosing the embroidery design, we can ask the tailor [or if a person is good tailor, then help themselves] to mark the places on the fabric to work the embroidery. Using these markings as guidelines, we can transfer the pattern on the fabrics. After completing the embroidery, the fabrics can be sewn into tunics, blouses, shirts… as the case may be.
Here are few samples of embroidered tunics, which were marked, embroidered and sewn into tunics.
This mangalagiri cotton tunic with stripes was marked with neckline. This was in early days when I was trying this idea. Though it was marked, the pattern chosen for this kutchwork embroidery was set apart from the actual neck line. After embroidering on the pattern, I added some small kutchwork motifs below the neck.

eowet-09

eowet-09

The shirt fabric is linen and the idea was to work white work on this. The markings were made according to the pattern, which was to be worked on both sides in the front. Crochet edging was worked later on the sleeve. This embroidery was a tough project, linen fabric did not help.

eowet-10

eowet-10

This yellow tunic is cotton. The pattern was transferred on to the front, where a marking was made for the neck. White and yellow carbons were ruled out on this colour. Green carbon paper was used to transfer the pattern. The marking is still on the neck to show the difference between the neck line on pattern and the actual neckline!

eowet-11

eowet-11

This mangalagiri cotton tunic has kantha embroidery on it. The tailor had marked a simple round neck. The pattern transfer and embroidery were worked on front and sleeves based on that. Seeing the work, he changed the neckline to this beautiful one. Sometimes it is better to leave some small space around the neck, to facilitate these kind of surprises. There is also a possibility of the tailor cutting off a small part of embroidery during his course of work.

eowet-12

eowet-12

The pattern for this kutchwork embroidery was drawn with this neck design. It was transferred on to the marked fabric. This tunic sample is a proof of a good coordination of pattern neckline and the tunic neckline.

eowet-13

eowet-13

The embroidery design for this cotton mangalagiri tunic was picked from a salwar design magazine. The tailor had this magazine with him. When I wanted to do this project, he not only marked but also explained where each and every element should be placed. Based on the inspiration and the guidance, this pattern was drawn and embroidered. Around the neck I had to draw the elements by hand to get the same effect. Still it was worth it. This embroidery has surface satin stitch on it.

eowet-14

eowet-14

Each and every design on these samples was chosen for that particular tunic in mind and they were all worked with the help of the markings made by the tailor.
We can work any embroidery on the tunic fabric in this manner. Important thing to note is to check whether the fabric is suitable for that embroidery. It is not just designing the embroidery, the tunic style is also kept in mind. It is a very interesting work. Practice, perseverance, eye for colours, basic calculations and understanding of fabrics and embroidery are the tools.
Enjoy designing and embroidering on wearable.

This embroidery around the neck of this cream and yellow printed cotton tunic was done in the fourth quarter of the year 2013.

creyelneckt-fab

creyelneckt-fab

The embroidery was on bright yellow cotton fabric, which was also the salwar fabric. The pattern had two parts, a medium size kutchwork border and a curved design. Both were worked with cotton skeins. I tried to bring an assissi effect, by working the background with herringbone filling and outlining with back stitch. The tunic-

cream&yellow neck tunic

cream&yellow neck tunic

The embroidery detail-

cream yellow neck tunic detail

cream yellow neck tunic detail

The pattern.

creyelneckt-pattern

creyelneckt-pattern

For the 16th week the progress on my projects are posted under this heading. It is helpful to the keep the mind focused on the progress of each one. The progress made by others can be seen on Pintangle.
The TAST challenge stitch took most of the time in this week. after completing it ,I moved on to the embroidery on tunic-
The centre of the yoke pattern on yellow tunic was worked with berry stitch [stranded cotton], chain stitch outlines [cotton skein and gold metallic thread] and herringbone filling [ variegated fine silk thread]

16.wipwednesdays-cytunic3

16.wipwednesdays-cytunic3

The back stitched petals and the progressing fly stitch filling inside the paisleys.

16.wipwednesdays-cytunic4

16.wipwednesdays-cytunic4

Embellishments will be with mirrors and beads. The third week edges were completed on Randje per week challenge. These edges are 8 inches in length. I started them in February.

16.wipwednesdays-rpw3

16.wipwednesdays-rpw3

The hussif was totally neglected this week too. The studio journal class lessons are very interesting and keeps me excited with many ideas, the habit of writing down the ideas needs to cultivated. Hoping that will start soon.

This tunic fabric had all the aspects I wanted- crepe material, black and red colours, traditional Indian pattern print all over. I couldn’t resist buying it.
The neck pattern for embroidery was also drawn in the same theme, traditional Indian design.

blackredcrepe-pattern

blackredcrepe-pattern

I chose black satin fabric for working this embroidery. It was hard taking a clear picture without the satin sheen. The embroidery was done with chain stitch, resembling aari work with zardosi beads and stones. It is easy to work Indian embroidery styles on traditional Indian designs.

blackred crepe-emb

blackred crepe-emb

The completed tunic-

black red crepe tunic

black red crepe tunic

Embroidery and embellishment detail-

blackred crepe-det

blackred crepe-det

I wear this tunic with black silk salwar. But It is so hot now, I feel I am melting, at the thought of wearing this outfit!

This beaded neck pattern was especially designed for my niece. She [Gayathri] loves maroon colour and antique gold beads.
The pattern-

gbeads on maroon-pattern

gbeads on maroon-pattern

The embroidery – chain stitch outlines, back stitch were worked with antique gold metallic thread and silk threads.

gbeads on maroon-emb

gbeads on maroon-emb

The sequins with round beads detail-

gbeads on maroon-sequins

gbeads on maroon-sequins

Detail of the round beads around the neck

gbead on maroon-round beads

gbead on maroon-round beads

Edging with oval beads details-

gbeads on maroon neck-oval beads

gbeads on maroon neck-oval beads

The neck-

gold beads on maroon neck design

gold beads on maroon neck design

I did not buy the tunic, because she wanted do the matching on her own.

After working a broad bagh embroidery border for copper tussar silk tunic, I wanted to work the same on a simple neckline. The embroidery itself is very simple. The pattern for this embroidery around the neck.

bagh emb on blue ikat-pattern

bagh emb on blue ikat-pattern

The embroidery was done on cream cotton fabric in black cotton skeins. The stitches were- arrowhead, double cross and back stitch.

bagh emb on blue ikat-detail

bagh emb on blue ikat-detail

A blue ikat fabric was bought for the tunic to match this neckline embroidery.

bagh emb on blue ikat-fabric

bagh emb on blue ikat-fabric

The embroidery placed on the fabric.

bagh emb on blue ikat-set

bagh emb on blue ikat-set

I gave these to my dear friend Sita, when I was in Chennai. She liked it and wears it quite often too. An happy project!

This tunic fabric is  printed chanderi silk cotton in maroon colour.

maroon chanderi zardosi-fabric

maroon chanderi zardosi-fabric

I wanted to work zardosi embroidery with stones on a golden colour fabric. This tunic was ideal for my design. A neckline based on traditional Indian design with scope for zardosi beads, stones and novelty beads was drawn on paper.

maroon chanderi zardosi-pattern

maroon chanderi zardosi-pattern

After embroidering with silk [maroon] and metallic [gold] threads, embellishments – round and soft rectangular gold beads, white stones, gold zardosi beads- were added to this pattern on golden colour synthetic fabric. The detail-

maroon chanderi ardosi-embroidery detail

maroon chanderi ardosi-embroidery detail

I wear a maroon salwar and dupatta for this tunic. This tunic actually does not need any value addition at all. Still I enjoyed embroidering this piece, I like the subdued effect of the embellishments.

maroon chanderi zardosi-tunic

maroon chanderi zardosi-tunic

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