kasuti embroidery


We had family visiting from India. They left on Tuesday last week. I was never near the needles or thread or computer during that time to post progress.
The stitches on SSS challenge of the last three weeks are yet to be tackled. The braid stitch is a stitch to be learnt, this might be worked on a string bag. The design is yet to be drawn. Hoping to start the Chinese cross stitch samples today. The method of working the Chinese knots will have to be considered after this.
The TAST challenge has to be visited on Pintangle.
A few borders in Kasuti embroidery was worked on the sampler cloth. This will be a separate post from now on.
WIPW144-Kasuti-sam
Projects
The embroidery with green thread on black fabric for green blouse was completed. The zardosi work on pink fabric for violet matka silk was also completed.
The kutchwork border designs were drawn on cream / half white cotton fabric. This will be long project, so the progress may not be regular. It started with working near the edge.
WIPW144- cream tkutch-1
We had open chain stitch on SSS challenge. This stitch is often used in some Indian ethnic embroidery. To work this stitch for this red striped tunic, is the next project idea.
WIPW144-redstrt-1
Another project idea is also there, which will be shared on next work in progress Wednesday post.

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This past week was quite busy. I am yet to get back to the stitch challenge routine. Generally working the stitch sampler starts on Friday. One weekend of Dubai trip, meant there was no time to work the new stitch during that week. So this week two stitches needed to be tackled on SSS challenge.
Yesterday, I tried the Madame Totsuka’s loop stitch. It was not as difficult as it looked. It is just hard to get a neat look. A small sampler can be worked.
The Holbein stitch is the next stitch. After looking at the embroidery on internet for so many years, an idea to learn, practice, work, getting familiar with types of embroideries has been taking root on my mind. It is a long process. Procrastinating, finding excuses that there are so many UFO’s, not having enough time, involves lot of planning and hard work – all these facts will be always be there. It has to start somewhere. So seeing this Holbein stitch on SSS challenge, I decided to start on Kasuti embroidery sampler. This embroidery from Karnataka, India predominantly uses Holbein stitch or double running stitch. I bought three books on this embroidery two years ago. Planning to start working the kasuti border patterns available on the second book.
WIPW143-kasuti-book2borders
The  week’s TAST challenge stitches were worked on previous challenges.

Projects
Violet matka silk tunic
The leaves worked on pink fabric for violet matka silk tunic are also embellished with zardosi beads. Detached chain stitch with the green zardosi in the middle is the detail I am working now.
WIPW143-msilkzardosi-7
Green blouse
The embroidery is worked on black fabric for this blouse. Stem stitches and detached chain stitches are worked in cotton skein, the same colour as the green fabric.
WIPW143-greenbl-2
This is the progress made during the week.

The tunic fabric is mangalagiri cotton with maroon and  yellow stripes.

yelmarmirt-fabric

yelmarmirt-fabric

I came across a geometric border on a tunic in a shop. This was a printed border. I wanted use this design idea for embroidery on tunic. This inspired pattern had both mirror and kutch work elements.

yelmarmirt-pattern

yelmarmirt-pattern

Starting with metallic thread and small kutch elements.

yelmarmirt-1

yelmarmirt-1

Chain stitch outline in green thread.

yelmarmirt-2

yelmarmirt-2

The same green thread is used for continuous kutchwork design.

yelmarmirt-3

yelmarmirt-3

Medium square mirrors were stitched on this embroidered border.

yelmarmirt-4

yelmarmirt-4

It was hard to take a straight picture of this tunic, because of the mirrors.

yellow maroon mirrorwork tunic

yellow maroon mirrorwork tunic

The detail of the sewn tunic with embroidery.

yelmarmirt-det

yelmarmirt-det

This being a geometric design, it also was an inspiration for this black work border. I have not used this pattern.

yelmarmirt- blackwork pattern

yelmarmirt- blackwork pattern

The second black work border in dark brown thread was worked this week on the aida cloth. It is nearing completion on one side. This border is also worked continuously and completed in the return journey.

WIPW54-beigebwt-7

WIPW54-beigebwt-7

Small straight stitches were worked around the kutchwork motifs on the mirror work yoke.

WIPW54-blmirt-5

WIPW54-blmirt-5

Drawing kalamkari patterns is very interesting. Now I know why some people enjoy zentangles. The repetitive patterns are really relaxing. I listen to some sleep inducing music during this exercise. Working half an hour at night seems ideal now.

WIPW54-kalam-2

WIPW54-kalam-2

This week’s edges are quite interesting on this challenge. The free graph for these edges are here.

rpw2015-45

rpw2015-45

The interesting part starts with the 46th edge. This edge is worked in double running stitch or Holbein stitch. By working with this stitch, the edge looks the same on both right and wrong sides. The Indian kasuti embroidery is worked this way. Video demonstration of this technique is available on this link.

rpw2015-46

rpw2015-46

I was excited to start this on my own, missing the video. The method of working the ends neatly is shown there. So sad! My untidy version is here. But I have managed to work the cross stitch in double running stitch.

rpw2015-46 reverse

rpw2015-46 reverse

I have stopped worrying that the thread used on these edges is not bright. It feels okay now.

There is a variation on this week’s edges. The second edge is worked in Algerian eye stitch. The free graph for these edges are here.

rpw-2015-41,42

rpw-2015-41,42

When working this Algerian eye stitch, I remembered about kasuti embroidery. This embroidery which is worked mainly in double running stitch, is from Karnataka, India. There are many aspects, regarding the origin, region, types, stitches, names, uses of this embroidery.

This particular stitch is worked as a design in double running stitch, which results in the right and the reverse side of the embroidery being the same. I tried working this edge with this idea in mind. So, the wrong side of this edge which looks like a mirror image of the original one excluding the knots, of course! That problem has to be tackled when working on kasuti embroidery. it was quite interesting to work this edge.

rpw2015-42 reverse

rpw2015-42 reverse