Indian embroidery


I am two days late in posting the works in progress. It is hard to remember the days in Chennai. After completing the Q stitch on SSS challenge, a project on silk blouse was done during this week. This blouse fabric had a wide gold border. My neighbour wanted some simple embroidery with stones and beads. Started the embroidery work with chain stitch in green silk thread.
WIPW128-peachb-1
Another chain stitch row with gold thread.
WIPW128-peachb-2
The saree is also the same peach silk with gold border. We could get dark red stone, the medium red stones did not match well with the richness of the silk fabric. Therefore chain stitches in red silk thread was worked on the semi circles created by green chain stitch row. The dark red stones were to be stitched here. I was hoping to subdue the colour of the stone to match with the fabric.
WIPW128-peachb-3
A small motif in gold was scattered here and there on the saree. I tried work a motif in gold thread and beads. After working the red stones and gold beads.
WIPW128-peachb-4
My friend who was sewing this blouse for her sister, wanted white stones on this project. I started with the white stones hoping it would go well with the beads, red stones and embroidery.
WIPW128-peachb-5
Embroidery completed on both the sleeves of this peach silk blouse.
WIPW128-peach blouse
Another blouse is also there which needs to be embroidered.
WIPW128-viopinb-1
Before starting the work on this blouse, I want to work whipped spoke stitch sampler for TAST challenge.

I have been working on this sewn tunic this week.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht
The kutchwork pattern was traced onto the tunic with white carbon. Not a very bright idea.
The pattern-
WIPW127.oryelkutcht-pat
When a time was conducive I started with brown thread. The design was very light after so many weeks. The brown thread in Chennai sunlight did not match so well as in Muscat indoor light. Still eager to start the project, I started with the basic stitches with brown thread. While working on it bought red and yellow threads. After ensuring the points are covered with brown thread, started with the yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-1
The basic stitches in brown are interlaced with red thread. This looks much better than the dull brown. Controlling the urge to work mirrors.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-2
The four motifs below the neck was worked in red thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-3
The pattern is now is worked with yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-4
The centre and other spaces are worked in half white thread. By this time the design from white carbon has completely vanished. This pattern was also drawn on 2mm graph paper.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-5
The project is completed without mirrors.
WIPW127-orange yellow chanderi kutch tunic
The embroidery detail-
WIPW127-orange yellow kutch tunic-det
The tunic looks nice even without the embroidery. An outline stitch around the neck would have been sufficient.
The 17th stitch on SSS challenge seems like an easy stitch. Started working on the sampler today.

Stitch challenges
SSS
The band sampler of last week’s lace stitch along with a few NESSAL black work borders was completed. This week’s stitch is mount mellick stitch. I have not worked this stitch before. I have always wanted to learn other embroidery techniques. This mount mellick embroidery is one of them. Taking the opportunity given by this challenge, an idea of working a sampler of some stitches of this embroidery along with this week’s stitch as come up. The shapes are drawn on paper and traced on a beige fabric. Hoping to start the work tomorrow.
TAST
This week’s stitch is a beautiful stitch with a long name- buttonholed cable chain stitch. The samples were worked on earlier challenge. The link was posted on FB group page yesterday.
I have started the embroidery with gold metallic thread on this green fabric.
wipw125-benagreen-zardosi-2
I am going to India for a whole month on this Saturday. Four weeks is too long to be without stitching. Just sorting through the projects to take at least two of them to India. Really hoping not to buy tunic fabrics for embroidery.

Stitch challenges
The knotted satin stitch of last week on SSS challenge was started on a peacock design on linen fabric. This will take a while to be completed. This week’s stitch on this challenge is lace stitch or three sided stitch on pulled thread embroidery. The samples are to be worked on small area within a frame. It’s started today.
wipw124-12-lace3sidst-1
NESSAL
Some bands will be taken from this stitch along to work with lace stitch.
TAST
This week Algerian eye stitch is on TAST challenge. The samples were worked on earlier challenge. The link to the samples on this blog was posted today morning on FB group page.
The stitch challenge stitches are taking up most of the time this week. The cross stitch borders were completed on Aida fabric for navy blue polyester linen tunic.
This fabric is benarasi georgette in green.
wipw124-benagreen-zardosi-1
Benarasi means a type of weaving on different fabrics. Silk, tussar, cotton, georgette , chiffon, crepe, wool are all woven in this type. It is from Varanasi [in northern India] or Benaras as it is called.
An embroidery with stones and zardosi beads will be worked around the neckline on dark green fabric. The design is ready to be traced.

Challenges
On SSS challenge there is a new stitch- Japanese darning stitch. A sampler was worked yesterday.
On TAST 2017 also has a new stitch this week, fancy herringbone stitch, which was not part of earlier TAST challenges. Hoping to start this stitch sampler today or tomorrow.
The NESSAL and RPW2016 were not started or touched this week.
Zardsosi
After working the stem and arrowhead stitches, green zardosi beads are used for filling the paisleys and the space between the arrowhead stitches. I have started working the beads on the last outline, but yet to take the picture.
wipw121-cresilkbanrasizardosi-5
Cross stitch
The sleeves of a navy blue polyester linen tunic will have cross stitch borders on them. Two borders were chosen from files downloaded on the internet.
After securing the edges of the Aida with buttonhole stitches, the borders were started. Three shades of blue and one dark red are to be used on this project. Work on this project will be after the completion of the zardosi embroidery.

wipw121-nbluepolinencross-3

Challenges
On Sunday stitch school challenge last week’s heavy chain stitch was worked on folk design in red thread. This week’s stitch is interlaced running stitch. Expecting to start the sampler today.
TAST challenge continues from today. This week’s stitch is magic chain or checkered chain. The link to the earlier worked sampler was posted on FB group page.
No progress at all on RPW 2016 challenge. Another challenge for 2017 has started on their blog last week.
Never ending sampler SAL is still in stage of  browsing the other people’s work.
Zardosi
Started with green threads on this piece. Some more progress has been made on the curves with a lighter green thread on the curves. The picture will be taken after completing this treatment. Content with the progress on this project this week. It was slightly boring to work the chain stitches. Now working on stem stitch.
wipw120-cresilkbanarasizardosi-4
If a change is required, a different project has to be worked, which will take time from this project.

This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally,  the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
sanchik-yokepat
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
sanchik-sleevepat
The threads used were-
sanchik-threads
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
sanchik-1
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
sanchik-2
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
sanchik-3
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
sanchik-yokedet
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
sanchik-sleeve-det
The detail of the tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic-det
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.

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