free pattern


This is the latest tunic where blue is matched with yellow and orange. In Muscat, Oman, we get oxidized silver accessories. Most of them have beads on them. Different shades of corals are available and they are coordinated with turquoise beads. These are feast for eyes in the souq. Mind slowly started generating patterns for projects built on these inspirations.
This tunic started with the yellow fabric printed with orange motifs. A kutchwork design with allowance for mirrors was drawn along with two other embroidery designs. The choice was to work the embroidery on yellow fabric or orange fabric. With the orange fabric being available yellow was the first colour chosen. The next choice was green. The fly stitches on the leaf pattern.

yelorbluet-1

yelorbluet-1

Two kutchwork motifs were worked in orange thread which was lighter than the fabric colour.

yelorbluet-2

yelorbluet-2

Another motif pattern had an option of being worked in two threads, the central diamond are worked in maroon thread.

yelorbluet-3

yelorbluet-3

Starting with the idea of incorporating blue into this design, the corners of this square motif was worked in blue thread.

yelorbluet-4

yelorbluet-4

The yellow from the fabric was the next colour, the same motif pattern which was worked in lighter orange was now worked in yellow thread.

yelorbluet-5

yelorbluet-5

The fly stitches are outlined with buttonhole stitch in lighter green thread.

yelorbluet-6

yelorbluet-6

Open chain stitches are worked in white thread to outline the mirrors inside the orange and yellow kutchwork motifs. The piece itself was outlined with back stitch.

yelorbluet-7

yelorbluet-7

Mirrors were worked in the same fabric yellow in the space between the leaf patterns.

yelorbluet-8

yelorbluet-8

Square mirrors in blue thread are worked inside the square motifs.

yelorbluet-9

yelorbluet-9

These blue beads are made of wood and dyed in blue.

yelorbluet-10

yelorbluet-10

The blue handloom cotton fabric with stripes was perfect for this set.

yellow orange patialablue tunic

yellow orange patialablue tunic

Outlining the embroidered piece and the sleeves with the yellow orange fabric was a good choice. Though this idea was mine, I could see the satisfaction in my tailor’s eyes. He is quite stingy with praises.

yeloow orange Patiala blue unic-det

yeloow orange Patiala blue unic-det

The pattern for this embroidery-

yelorbluet-pattern

yelorbluet-pattern

The tunic fabric is soft cotton, the dark blue fabric is cotton crepe. the project started in 2015 and completed now in May 2016.This is the first project where these two concepts were tried for the first time. A form of Indian ethnic embroidery and mix of blue and orange.

orawhblgret-fabric

orawhblgret-fabric

It was hard to conceive the idea of mixing orange and blue together. But there were too many eye candies which nurtured this and a time came when I wanted to try this. An ethnic embroidery pattern which was predominantly done in chain stitch and mirror work was seen on a wall hanging. This piece had other forms of ethnic embroidery too. A border was worked with this detail.

orawhblgret-1

orawhblgret-1

The basic floral design was worked completely in chain stitch with green thread.

orawhblgret-2

orawhblgret-2

The outline was worked in dark blue thread. Till this time the dark blue fabric was to be coordinated with this tunic. Eventually it changed,

orawhblgret-3

orawhblgret-3

With the fabric colour being white, last of the chain stitches were worked in white.

orawhblgret-4

orawhblgret-4

Round mirrors were worked in light blue thread.
At this stage, coordinating the dark blue with this tunic was not looking very good. So the project was kept aside to be given to the tailor later. A light blue Patiala was bought, which coordinated better with this tunic.

orange yoke on white blue green tunic

orange yoke on white blue green tunic

The tailor worked an ideal way of sewing this skewed striped fabric. The result is lovely,

orawhblgret-det1

orawhblgret-det1

The embroidery detail on tunic.

orawhblgret-det2

orawhblgret-det2

The pattern for this embroidery.

orawhblgret-pattern

orawhblgret-pattern

This brown ikat fabric was there for quite some time. The weave gave an impression of yellow. This brought about an idea of working the embroidery in yellow.

brgryel-fabric

brgryel-fabric

Suddenly a green fabric popped into the picture and I started working the embroidery on it. The embroidery was mainly worked in herringbone stitch with a chain and buttonhole stitches thrown here and there.

brgryel-1

brgryel-1

Then slowly brown thread came into the picture.

brgryel-2

brgryel-2

Most of the herringbone shapes are now outlined in brown thread.

brgryel03

brgryel-3

After outlining the leaf shapes in green thread, variegated fine silk thread was used.

brgryel-4a

brgryel-4a

These details show clearly the places where variegated thread was used.

brgryel-4b

brgryel-4b

Continuing with gold metallic thread.

brgryel-5

brgryel-5

Gold beads and sequins were added in the last part of this embroidery.

brgryel-6

brgryel-6

The detail of the embroidery placed on the brown ikat fabric.

brgryel-7

brgryel-7

I realize that the green fabric is overpowering. A slight shift had to be done, so a yellow cotton fabric was bought. This combo was given to the tailor and it came back like this.

brown green yelowtunci set

brown green yelowtunci set

The yellow tunic.

brown green yellow tunic

brown green yellow tunic

Now for the detail. The embroidery and the sleeves have brown ikat fabric on them.

brown green yellow tunic detail

brown green yellow tunic detail

The embroidery pattern.

brgryel-pattern

brgryel-pattern

This project taught me to be cautious before bringing in another colour [this case, green]. And if the deed is already done, start looking for ways to improvise, this case plain yellow fabric.

I had designed three pieces for embroidery on tunics in February when working on a long project. This is the second piece. After completing the work on this blue silk cotton fabric, the piece suited a white chanderi silk cotton tunic fabric and I found the embroidery done around the mirror was worth sharing .
It started with the pattern-

mirblue-pat

mirblue-pat

Buttonhole stitch variations are worked over the pattern drawn.

mirblue-1

mirblue-1

The small oval shapes were intended for detached chain stitches. I felt oyster stitch was  a better choice. It so happened while working on this stitch, SharonB announced oyster stitch on this week’s TAST 2016 challenge. These oyster stitches were worked in four strands of cotton skein.

mirblue-2

mirblue-2

The triangular space around the mirror pattern was worked in herringbone filling.

mirblue-det1

mirblue-det1

The space between the two outlines was worked in herringbone and fly stitch combination in pink and green.

mirblue-det2

mirblue-det2

Zigzag back stitch was worked around the inner round. This was not part of the pattern.

mirblue-3

mirblue-3

Long tailed chain stitches in white thread were worked in between the buttonhole stitches. this detail was also not in the pattern.

mirblue-4

mirblue-4

The whole piece after working back stitches with white thread.

mirblue-det3

mirblue-det3

A medium size round mirror was attached to the centre with shisha stitch.

mirblue-5

mirblue-5

Small square mirrors were attached with shisha stitch between the two outlines.

mirblue-det4

mirblue-det4

After working the mirrors, small silver sequins with silver beads were stitched on to this piece. The mirror detail-

mirror work on blue detail

mirror work on blue detail

The piece with completed embroidery.

mirror work on blue

mirror work on blue

Kutch work embroidery fascinates me. Sometimes it is a motif, or a woven design, or a border. The differences in working each piece is quite absorbing. This is the reason, every now and then, a kutchwork project keeps showing on my posts. This time, an idea of a small kutchwork design worked in different colours came to mind.
This design can be worked as woven kutch work too.
The pattern, as a usual practice the mirrors are also incorporated in this pattern.

blmultiy-pat

blmultiy-pat

The design was drawn on a blue fabric. The embroidery started with choosing these threads. Few more threads were added while working. The kutchwork was worked in three strands of stranded cotton

blmultiy-threads

blmultiy-threads

After working a corner design, started with the repeating design.

blmultiy-1

blmultiy-1

The working was faster than I expected. The thread consumption  for each piece was also very less.

blmultiy-2

blmultiy-2

This particular kutchwork motif can be also be weaved, instead of interlacing. The interlacing leaves space in between the interlaced squares.

blmultiy-3

blmultiy-3

The yellow and orange threads were alternated with a touch of pink, green and blue in between them. The colourful kutchwork embroidery.

blmultiy-4

blmultiy-4

The outline in chain stitch with blue thread.

blmultiy-5

blmultiy-5

The chain stitches in white are worked after this.

blmultiy-6

blmultiy-6

The small square mirrors worked with blue thread.

blmultiy-7

blmultiy-7

Three yoke patterns were engineered one after another a while ago. This is the first piece. After completing this embroidery, the tunic for which this was intended, a blue cotton fabric, was not appealing enough. So yesterday, another tunic fabric was picked for this piece.

blue multi col yoke white tunic

blue multi col yoke white tunic

This is ready to go to the tailor.

The Mattrah souq in Muscat is filled with oxidized silver jewellery. The inspiration for this tunic is from a turquoise and coral ear piece. When a blue cotton fabric was found for the tunic, the idea of working the embroidery in red fabric rose simultaneously.

b,rkt-fabric

b,rkt-fabric

Indian ethnic kutchwork design was chosen for this project, the kutchwork embroidery in blue on red fabric.

b,rkt-1

b,rkt-1

The border in the centre was worked in medium blue. The outline stitch to work the interlacing.

b,rkt-2

b,rkt-2

The interlaced border.

b,rkt-3

b,rkt-3

The border outline stitches around the centre were worked in lighter blue.

b,rkt-4

b,rkt-4

After working the interlacing stitch.

b,rkt-5

b,rkt-5

Metallic silver thread is used for working the chain stitch outline,

b,rkt-6

b,rkt-6

Blue wooden beads were added to the spaces in the central design,

b,rkt-detail

b,rkt-detail

The detail of the embroidery.

blue red kutch work tunic

blue red kutch work tunic

The sewn tunic with red yoke. A Patiala salwar in same shade of blue was bought to match with this tunic.

b,rkt-pattern

b,rkt-pattern

The kutchwork pattern

This last set of details were worked today on this embroidery stitch sampler book. The first page is completed. I started with the idea of Zentangles type designs to work the embroidery details on this page. Page-1

embroidery sampler book page1

embroidery sampler book page1

The details-

The space between the individual fly stitches ware worked with satin stitch and back stitch stem and leaves.

11.ESBP-1back,satin

11.ESBP-1back,satin

A buttonhole line was embellished with beads and fly stitches in this detail.

12ESBP-1bhs2,beads,fly11

12ESBP-1bhs2,beads,fly11

An idea of working fly stitches with beaded long stem was tried in this part.

ESBP-1flys12

ESBP-1flys12

The pattern of the first page.

ESBP-1 pattern

ESBP-1 pattern

The tunic fabric is mangalagiri cotton with maroon and  yellow stripes.

yelmarmirt-fabric

yelmarmirt-fabric

I came across a geometric border on a tunic in a shop. This was a printed border. I wanted use this design idea for embroidery on tunic. This inspired pattern had both mirror and kutch work elements.

yelmarmirt-pattern

yelmarmirt-pattern

Starting with metallic thread and small kutch elements.

yelmarmirt-1

yelmarmirt-1

Chain stitch outline in green thread.

yelmarmirt-2

yelmarmirt-2

The same green thread is used for continuous kutchwork design.

yelmarmirt-3

yelmarmirt-3

Medium square mirrors were stitched on this embroidered border.

yelmarmirt-4

yelmarmirt-4

It was hard to take a straight picture of this tunic, because of the mirrors.

yellow maroon mirrorwork tunic

yellow maroon mirrorwork tunic

The detail of the sewn tunic with embroidery.

yelmarmirt-det

yelmarmirt-det

This being a geometric design, it also was an inspiration for this black work border. I have not used this pattern.

yelmarmirt- blackwork pattern

yelmarmirt- blackwork pattern

Sometime ago, I had this idea of working the same pattern on two fabrics and combine them to use as tunic embellishment. The tunic chosen for this purpose was an ikat cotton fabric.

2ykblikatt-fab

2ykblikatt-fab

The pattern was simple with mirror work, that which can be worked with Aari needle too. I worked with the normal # 9 crewel needle. The pattern for the yoke and the sleeves.

2yblikatt-pat

2yblikatt-pat

The patterns were traced on these two fabrics.

2ykblikatt-yel

2ykblikatt-yel

The sleeve pattern traced on green fabric.

2ykblikatt-gree

2ykblikatt-gree

The pieces after working the embroidery and mirrors.

2ykblikatt-emb

2ykblikatt-emb

The two fabrics sewn on tunic.

2 yoke on blue ikat tunic

2 yoke on blue ikat tunic

The tunic with sleeves. The embroidery was quite simple on the sleeve border.

2ykblikatt-det

2ykblikatt-det

This yoke which was done in 2013 was inspired by ready made mirror work borders available in the Indian market. These borders are actually made with round sequins or discs called mica. The embroidery on them is done with fine silk threads and beads. They are attached to sarees, tunics in India.
This yoke is worked with mirrors. The tunic fabric is block printed, vegetable dyed, handloom cotton in black.

pink mirror yoke tunic

pink mirror yoke tunic

The embroidery other than mirror work is done with silk threads, the pink thread for herringbone filling on triangles and golden colour silk thread for chain stitch.

pinkmirykt-1

pinkmirykt-1

Gold metallic thread is used for outlines in chain stitch.

pinkmirykt-2

pinkmirykt-2

The inner mirror outlines are done with pink silk thread.

pinkmirykt-3

pinkmirykt-3

The small mirrors are outlined in chain stitch with white thread.

pinkmirykt-4

pinkmirykt-4

The detail of the inner outline made with golden thread.

pinkmirykt-5

pinkmirykt-5

Another outline around the central mirrors made with medium pink thread.

pinkmirykt-6

pinkmirykt-6

The inner mirrors are fixed with shisha stitch.

pinkmirykt-7

pinkmirykt-7

The final step was to work the small mirrors with shisha stitch.

pinkmiryt-8

pinkmiryt-8

The yoke on tunic.

pink mirroryoke tunic -det

pink mirroryoke tunic -det

The pattern for this mirror work yoke.

pinkmiryt-pattern

pinkmiryt-pattern

I match this tunic with black trousers. The handloom fabrics feel cool in summer season. A sample of the border available in the markets.

pinkmirykt-border sample

pinkmirykt-border sample

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