free pattern


This is another new stitch for me in this SSS challenge. The working is on Queenie’s blog. This is last week’s stitch, it took a while to complete the sampler.
This mountmellick embroidery is one of the many types of embroidery I have been planning to learn and execute. This challenge is used to work some samplers of new stitches and new embroideries.
After knowing the stitch of the week on this challenge, some browsing for the embroidery began on pinterest board. A few samples of  mountmellick stitch and other stitches were chosen.
Different shapes were drawn to work these combinations.
SSS.13.moumst-pat
Transferred to the fabric.
SSS.13.moumst-fpat
The first sample is outlined with mountmellick stitch and filled with back stitch and French knots. Detached chain stitches were worked around in circle and outlined with mountmellick stitch in the second sample, after filling the third sample with mountmellick stitch rows it is outlined with Portuguese stem stitch, the inner spine of the fourth sample is worked with two rows of buttonhole stitch and the outlie is worked in mountmellick stitch.
SSS.13.moumst-1,2,3,4
After outlining the fifth sample with mountmellick stitch straight stitches are worked. The spine in the sixth sample is worked with mountmellick stitch with detached chain and French knots and outlined with stem stitch. The seventh sample is a combo of fly stitch variation and mountmellick stitch.mountmellick stitch is combined with Danish knots on the eighth sample.
SSS.13.moumst-5,6,7,8
Ninth and tenth samples have french knots, satin stitches and mountmellick stitches.
SSS.13.moumst-9,10
Three rows of mountmellick stitches are worked with pistil stitches on eleventh sample. The mountmellick spine on twelfth sample is outlined with chain stitch. Mountmellick stitch veins are outlined with feather stitch in the thirteenth sample.wheatear stitch forms the spine of this mountmellick stitched outline of the fourteenth and the last sample.
SSS.13.moumst-11,12,13,14
The whole mountmellick stitch sampler.
SSS.mountmellick stitch sampler
I like the texture produced by this stitch. It is easier to manage than palestrina knot stitch. Since mountmellick embroidery is worked in white threads on white fabric, I wanted a sampler with totally different effect. Perle cotton #8 cooperated very well with the working of this stitch. I understand why I face problems with polyester threads. It is long way to go on this mountmellick embroidery journey, just feeling happy to have started this at this point,

This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally,  the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
sanchik-yokepat
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
sanchik-sleevepat
The threads used were-
sanchik-threads
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
sanchik-1
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
sanchik-2
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
sanchik-3
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
sanchik-yokedet
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
sanchik-sleeve-det
The detail of the tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic-det
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.

This is the second tunic with lemon green and white combination. This summer these two colours were predominant in the tunic embroidery projects.
The fabric is handloom cotton and the embroidery was done with white cotton skein and some details worked in white perle cotton #8. There are two design elements. The first element is borders which were worked on the sleeves.

lemgrechi-sleeves

lemgrechi-sleeves

The same border design was worked around the neck.

lemgrechi-neck

lemgrechi-neck

These designs were drawn by hand with a foot ruler. The pattern was drawn on the wrong side of the cloth and embroidery was also worked on the wrong side. The fabric being see-through, was placed on the pattern and the floral design was traced with a pencil.
Started the embroidery in the centre.

lemgrechi-1

lemgrechi-1

The work in progress of the floral design. The shadow work/ chikan work/ closed herringbone was worked with four strands of cotton skein. I felt the thickness of the thread will make the embroidery more prominent.

lemgrechi-wip

lemgrechi-wip

After working the herringbone stitches in cotton skein, white perle cotton# 8 was used to work the straight stitches inside the petals. These straight stitches were worked on the right side of the fabric.

lemgrechi-2

lemgrechi-2

The last detail of French knots worked on the flowers.

lemgrechi-3

lemgrechi-3

After the completion of the embroidery the fabric was given to tailor for sewing. The tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

The detail.

lemon green chikan-det

lemon green chikan-det

It has been a while since I have done chikan work embroidery. It is easy to work, that’s a blessing. The embroidery needs to cover fairly a large area because of the subtlety of the work and the colours used. The pattern-

lemgrechi-pattern

lemgrechi-pattern

This tunic does not have lining. If required a slip can be used. I have one in this green. Sometimes it is hard to get lining fabric in cotton in this place. Since a polyester fabric will take away the comfort factor, it is better to go without a lining.

My Knowledge about this Kota fabric is minimal. It comes in silk and cotton. I have worn and seen sarees made of this fabric. it is transparent and needs to be starched and ironed. This tunic fabric is block printed white cotton Kota. The green striped fabric is chosen for the embroidery.

whgrekota-fabric

whgrekota-fabric

The bright sun is an inspiration to wear white fabrics. The fabric colour was so pleasing and cool, I did not want the embroidery to overpower it.
Four big size square mirrors outlined in chain stitch with silver metallic thread and embellished with silver beads completed the embroidery.

whgrekota-emb

whgrekota-emb

The pattern-

whgrekota-pattern

whgrekota-pattern

The same green striped fabric used for the embroidery was used for outlining the neckline and sleeve borders.

white green kota tunic

white green kota tunic

The detail of the neck and embroidery. it is hard to take pictures of big mirrors!

whgrekota-detail

whgrekota-detail

 

This is the latest tunic where blue is matched with yellow and orange. In Muscat, Oman, we get oxidized silver accessories. Most of them have beads on them. Different shades of corals are available and they are coordinated with turquoise beads. These are feast for eyes in the souq. Mind slowly started generating patterns for projects built on these inspirations.
This tunic started with the yellow fabric printed with orange motifs. A kutchwork design with allowance for mirrors was drawn along with two other embroidery designs. The choice was to work the embroidery on yellow fabric or orange fabric. With the orange fabric being available yellow was the first colour chosen. The next choice was green. The fly stitches on the leaf pattern.

yelorbluet-1

yelorbluet-1

Two kutchwork motifs were worked in orange thread which was lighter than the fabric colour.

yelorbluet-2

yelorbluet-2

Another motif pattern had an option of being worked in two threads, the central diamond are worked in maroon thread.

yelorbluet-3

yelorbluet-3

Starting with the idea of incorporating blue into this design, the corners of this square motif was worked in blue thread.

yelorbluet-4

yelorbluet-4

The yellow from the fabric was the next colour, the same motif pattern which was worked in lighter orange was now worked in yellow thread.

yelorbluet-5

yelorbluet-5

The fly stitches are outlined with buttonhole stitch in lighter green thread.

yelorbluet-6

yelorbluet-6

Open chain stitches are worked in white thread to outline the mirrors inside the orange and yellow kutchwork motifs. The piece itself was outlined with back stitch.

yelorbluet-7

yelorbluet-7

Mirrors were worked in the same fabric yellow in the space between the leaf patterns.

yelorbluet-8

yelorbluet-8

Square mirrors in blue thread are worked inside the square motifs.

yelorbluet-9

yelorbluet-9

These blue beads are made of wood and dyed in blue.

yelorbluet-10

yelorbluet-10

The blue handloom cotton fabric with stripes was perfect for this set.

yellow orange patialablue tunic

yellow orange patialablue tunic

Outlining the embroidered piece and the sleeves with the yellow orange fabric was a good choice. Though this idea was mine, I could see the satisfaction in my tailor’s eyes. He is quite stingy with praises.

yeloow orange Patiala blue unic-det

yeloow orange Patiala blue unic-det

The pattern for this embroidery-

yelorbluet-pattern

yelorbluet-pattern

The tunic fabric is soft cotton, the dark blue fabric is cotton crepe. the project started in 2015 and completed now in May 2016.This is the first project where these two concepts were tried for the first time. A form of Indian ethnic embroidery and mix of blue and orange.

orawhblgret-fabric

orawhblgret-fabric

It was hard to conceive the idea of mixing orange and blue together. But there were too many eye candies which nurtured this and a time came when I wanted to try this. An ethnic embroidery pattern which was predominantly done in chain stitch and mirror work was seen on a wall hanging. This piece had other forms of ethnic embroidery too. A border was worked with this detail.

orawhblgret-1

orawhblgret-1

The basic floral design was worked completely in chain stitch with green thread.

orawhblgret-2

orawhblgret-2

The outline was worked in dark blue thread. Till this time the dark blue fabric was to be coordinated with this tunic. Eventually it changed,

orawhblgret-3

orawhblgret-3

With the fabric colour being white, last of the chain stitches were worked in white.

orawhblgret-4

orawhblgret-4

Round mirrors were worked in light blue thread.
At this stage, coordinating the dark blue with this tunic was not looking very good. So the project was kept aside to be given to the tailor later. A light blue Patiala was bought, which coordinated better with this tunic.

orange yoke on white blue green tunic

orange yoke on white blue green tunic

The tailor worked an ideal way of sewing this skewed striped fabric. The result is lovely,

orawhblgret-det1

orawhblgret-det1

The embroidery detail on tunic.

orawhblgret-det2

orawhblgret-det2

The pattern for this embroidery.

orawhblgret-pattern

orawhblgret-pattern

This brown ikat fabric was there for quite some time. The weave gave an impression of yellow. This brought about an idea of working the embroidery in yellow.

brgryel-fabric

brgryel-fabric

Suddenly a green fabric popped into the picture and I started working the embroidery on it. The embroidery was mainly worked in herringbone stitch with a chain and buttonhole stitches thrown here and there.

brgryel-1

brgryel-1

Then slowly brown thread came into the picture.

brgryel-2

brgryel-2

Most of the herringbone shapes are now outlined in brown thread.

brgryel03

brgryel-3

After outlining the leaf shapes in green thread, variegated fine silk thread was used.

brgryel-4a

brgryel-4a

These details show clearly the places where variegated thread was used.

brgryel-4b

brgryel-4b

Continuing with gold metallic thread.

brgryel-5

brgryel-5

Gold beads and sequins were added in the last part of this embroidery.

brgryel-6

brgryel-6

The detail of the embroidery placed on the brown ikat fabric.

brgryel-7

brgryel-7

I realize that the green fabric is overpowering. A slight shift had to be done, so a yellow cotton fabric was bought. This combo was given to the tailor and it came back like this.

brown green yelowtunci set

brown green yelowtunci set

The yellow tunic.

brown green yellow tunic

brown green yellow tunic

Now for the detail. The embroidery and the sleeves have brown ikat fabric on them.

brown green yellow tunic detail

brown green yellow tunic detail

The embroidery pattern.

brgryel-pattern

brgryel-pattern

This project taught me to be cautious before bringing in another colour [this case, green]. And if the deed is already done, start looking for ways to improvise, this case plain yellow fabric.

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