free pattern


The story of this yoke starts with this striped cotton fabric.
cremirt-salwar
Thinking all these colours can be used for embroidery on a cream base, a cream cotton fabric was chosen for the tunic. This cream mangalagiri handloom cotton fabric was given to the tailor for marking the front and sleeves.

And  a simple border design was embroidered on the sleeves.
cremirt-sleeves
The pattern for the same.
cremirt-pats
The embroidery for this mirror work started with green colour skein. The mirror outlines were worked n chain stitch, the curls were worked in stem stitch and the leaves in leaf stitch.
cremirt-1
The second stage was to work the orange colour skein. Chain stitches and buttonhole stitches were worked with this thread.
cremirt-2
Next in line was the antique violet colour skein. The triangles around the neck were worked in buttonhole stitches and the second mirror outlines were worked in chain stitch.
cremirt-3
The last outline around mirrors were worked in polyester gold colour thread.
cremirt-4
The diamond shaped mirrors were outlined with variegated polyester thread.
cremirt-5
The remaining chain stitch outlines were worked in yellow colour skein.
cremirt-6
The same yellow skein was used for working all the mirrors.
cremirt-7
Oval shaped gold bead was the last detail to be worked on this embroidery.
cremirt-8
The pattern for this yoke.
cremirt-paty
The completed tunic.
cream mirror work tunic
This was the story of this tunic in 2014. After two and a half years, the same yoke became a part of another tunic. Which will be narrated later.

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I have been working on this sewn tunic this week.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht
The kutchwork pattern was traced onto the tunic with white carbon. Not a very bright idea.
The pattern-
WIPW127.oryelkutcht-pat
When a time was conducive I started with brown thread. The design was very light after so many weeks. The brown thread in Chennai sunlight did not match so well as in Muscat indoor light. Still eager to start the project, I started with the basic stitches with brown thread. While working on it bought red and yellow threads. After ensuring the points are covered with brown thread, started with the yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-1
The basic stitches in brown are interlaced with red thread. This looks much better than the dull brown. Controlling the urge to work mirrors.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-2
The four motifs below the neck was worked in red thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-3
The pattern is now is worked with yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-4
The centre and other spaces are worked in half white thread. By this time the design from white carbon has completely vanished. This pattern was also drawn on 2mm graph paper.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-5
The project is completed without mirrors.
WIPW127-orange yellow chanderi kutch tunic
The embroidery detail-
WIPW127-orange yellow kutch tunic-det
The tunic looks nice even without the embroidery. An outline stitch around the neck would have been sufficient.
The 17th stitch on SSS challenge seems like an easy stitch. Started working on the sampler today.

I am in Chennai, India for vacation. Embroidery is not part of this routine. Still some small assignments are worked in between other work. This tunic was worked in the summer of 2016.
After working two tunics in lemon green and white combination some pieces of lemon green fabric was lying around. A kutchwork embroidery seemed like a good idea. There was this tunic fabric in half white cotton block printed with the same colour.
whigremajekutch-f
I wanted to add another colour to this white. A medium majenta thread was chosen.
whigremajekutch-f2
Drawing diagonal kutchwork on 2mm graph paper gives a dainty look. The border pattern-
whigremajekutch-pb
The pattern below the neck-
whigremajekutch-py
I started with the first sleeve border.
whigremajekutch-1
Making the anchoring stiches was not so difficult. Care was required to work the stitch at the precise point and moving over or under the thread had to be accurate. The interlacing was not so easy, because of the daintiness of the pattern.
whigremajekutch-2
This is the same story in the second part of the journey, still it was better to work the outer squares.
whigremajekutch-3
Instead of looking for another colour, the single line kutch border was worked in green. An idea of working this border in white was considered and rejected.
whigremajekutch-4
I moved on to the yoke at this point. The kutch work in green thread.
whigremajekutch-y1
The basic kutch squares worked in majenta.
whigremajekutch-y2
Worked the border in majenta and the back stitch outline was worked in white. This piece was completed.
whigremajekutch-y3
The border on another sleeve was worked.
whigremajekutch-5
The embroidered pieces and the tunic fabric was given for sewing.

white green majenta kutch tunic
The detail.
white green majenta kutch tunic-det
After a while, a cotton fabric with same lemon colour tones was bought for salwar [ Indian  pants].
white green majenta kutch tunic-salwar
I wore this tunic set last week. It was cool.

This is another new stitch for me in this SSS challenge. The working is on Queenie’s blog. This is last week’s stitch, it took a while to complete the sampler.
This mountmellick embroidery is one of the many types of embroidery I have been planning to learn and execute. This challenge is used to work some samplers of new stitches and new embroideries.
After knowing the stitch of the week on this challenge, some browsing for the embroidery began on pinterest board. A few samples of  mountmellick stitch and other stitches were chosen.
Different shapes were drawn to work these combinations.
SSS.13.moumst-pat
Transferred to the fabric.
SSS.13.moumst-fpat
The first sample is outlined with mountmellick stitch and filled with back stitch and French knots. Detached chain stitches were worked around in circle and outlined with mountmellick stitch in the second sample, after filling the third sample with mountmellick stitch rows it is outlined with Portuguese stem stitch, the inner spine of the fourth sample is worked with two rows of buttonhole stitch and the outlie is worked in mountmellick stitch.
SSS.13.moumst-1,2,3,4
After outlining the fifth sample with mountmellick stitch straight stitches are worked. The spine in the sixth sample is worked with mountmellick stitch with detached chain and French knots and outlined with stem stitch. The seventh sample is a combo of fly stitch variation and mountmellick stitch.mountmellick stitch is combined with Danish knots on the eighth sample.
SSS.13.moumst-5,6,7,8
Ninth and tenth samples have french knots, satin stitches and mountmellick stitches.
SSS.13.moumst-9,10
Three rows of mountmellick stitches are worked with pistil stitches on eleventh sample. The mountmellick spine on twelfth sample is outlined with chain stitch. Mountmellick stitch veins are outlined with feather stitch in the thirteenth sample.wheatear stitch forms the spine of this mountmellick stitched outline of the fourteenth and the last sample.
SSS.13.moumst-11,12,13,14
The whole mountmellick stitch sampler.
SSS.mountmellick stitch sampler
I like the texture produced by this stitch. It is easier to manage than palestrina knot stitch. Since mountmellick embroidery is worked in white threads on white fabric, I wanted a sampler with totally different effect. Perle cotton #8 cooperated very well with the working of this stitch. I understand why I face problems with polyester threads. It is long way to go on this mountmellick embroidery journey, just feeling happy to have started this at this point,

This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally,  the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
sanchik-yokepat
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
sanchik-sleevepat
The threads used were-
sanchik-threads
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
sanchik-1
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
sanchik-2
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
sanchik-3
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
sanchik-yokedet
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
sanchik-sleeve-det
The detail of the tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic-det
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.

This is the second tunic with lemon green and white combination. This summer these two colours were predominant in the tunic embroidery projects.
The fabric is handloom cotton and the embroidery was done with white cotton skein and some details worked in white perle cotton #8. There are two design elements. The first element is borders which were worked on the sleeves.

lemgrechi-sleeves

lemgrechi-sleeves

The same border design was worked around the neck.

lemgrechi-neck

lemgrechi-neck

These designs were drawn by hand with a foot ruler. The pattern was drawn on the wrong side of the cloth and embroidery was also worked on the wrong side. The fabric being see-through, was placed on the pattern and the floral design was traced with a pencil.
Started the embroidery in the centre.

lemgrechi-1

lemgrechi-1

The work in progress of the floral design. The shadow work/ chikan work/ closed herringbone was worked with four strands of cotton skein. I felt the thickness of the thread will make the embroidery more prominent.

lemgrechi-wip

lemgrechi-wip

After working the herringbone stitches in cotton skein, white perle cotton# 8 was used to work the straight stitches inside the petals. These straight stitches were worked on the right side of the fabric.

lemgrechi-2

lemgrechi-2

The last detail of French knots worked on the flowers.

lemgrechi-3

lemgrechi-3

After the completion of the embroidery the fabric was given to tailor for sewing. The tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

The detail.

lemon green chikan-det

lemon green chikan-det

It has been a while since I have done chikan work embroidery. It is easy to work, that’s a blessing. The embroidery needs to cover fairly a large area because of the subtlety of the work and the colours used. The pattern-

lemgrechi-pattern

lemgrechi-pattern

This tunic does not have lining. If required a slip can be used. I have one in this green. Sometimes it is hard to get lining fabric in cotton in this place. Since a polyester fabric will take away the comfort factor, it is better to go without a lining.

My Knowledge about this Kota fabric is minimal. It comes in silk and cotton. I have worn and seen sarees made of this fabric. it is transparent and needs to be starched and ironed. This tunic fabric is block printed white cotton Kota. The green striped fabric is chosen for the embroidery.

whgrekota-fabric

whgrekota-fabric

The bright sun is an inspiration to wear white fabrics. The fabric colour was so pleasing and cool, I did not want the embroidery to overpower it.
Four big size square mirrors outlined in chain stitch with silver metallic thread and embellished with silver beads completed the embroidery.

whgrekota-emb

whgrekota-emb

The pattern-

whgrekota-pattern

whgrekota-pattern

The same green striped fabric used for the embroidery was used for outlining the neckline and sleeve borders.

white green kota tunic

white green kota tunic

The detail of the neck and embroidery. it is hard to take pictures of big mirrors!

whgrekota-detail

whgrekota-detail

 

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