I have been working on this sewn tunic this week.
The kutchwork pattern was traced onto the tunic with white carbon. Not a very bright idea.
When a time was conducive I started with brown thread. The design was very light after so many weeks. The brown thread in Chennai sunlight did not match so well as in Muscat indoor light. Still eager to start the project, I started with the basic stitches with brown thread. While working on it bought red and yellow threads. After ensuring the points are covered with brown thread, started with the yellow thread.
The basic stitches in brown are interlaced with red thread. This looks much better than the dull brown. Controlling the urge to work mirrors.
The four motifs below the neck was worked in red thread.
The pattern is now is worked with yellow thread.
The centre and other spaces are worked in half white thread. By this time the design from white carbon has completely vanished. This pattern was also drawn on 2mm graph paper.
The project is completed without mirrors.
The embroidery detail-
The tunic looks nice even without the embroidery. An outline stitch around the neck would have been sufficient.
The 17th stitch on SSS challenge seems like an easy stitch. Started working on the sampler today.
April 12, 2017
I have been working on this sewn tunic this week.
April 11, 2017
I am in Chennai, India for vacation. Embroidery is not part of this routine. Still some small assignments are worked in between other work. This tunic was worked in the summer of 2016.
After working two tunics in lemon green and white combination some pieces of lemon green fabric was lying around. A kutchwork embroidery seemed like a good idea. There was this tunic fabric in half white cotton block printed with the same colour.
I wanted to add another colour to this white. A medium majenta thread was chosen.
Drawing diagonal kutchwork on 2mm graph paper gives a dainty look. The border pattern-
The pattern below the neck-
I started with the first sleeve border.
Making the anchoring stiches was not so difficult. Care was required to work the stitch at the precise point and moving over or under the thread had to be accurate. The interlacing was not so easy, because of the daintiness of the pattern.
This is the same story in the second part of the journey, still it was better to work the outer squares.
Instead of looking for another colour, the single line kutch border was worked in green. An idea of working this border in white was considered and rejected.
I moved on to the yoke at this point. The kutch work in green thread.
The basic kutch squares worked in majenta.
Worked the border in majenta and the back stitch outline was worked in white. This piece was completed.
The border on another sleeve was worked.
The embroidered pieces and the tunic fabric was given for sewing.
After a while, a cotton fabric with same lemon colour tones was bought for salwar [ Indian pants].
I wore this tunic set last week. It was cool.
March 7, 2017
This is another new stitch for me in this SSS challenge. The working is on Queenie’s blog. This is last week’s stitch, it took a while to complete the sampler.
This mountmellick embroidery is one of the many types of embroidery I have been planning to learn and execute. This challenge is used to work some samplers of new stitches and new embroideries.
After knowing the stitch of the week on this challenge, some browsing for the embroidery began on pinterest board. A few samples of mountmellick stitch and other stitches were chosen.
Different shapes were drawn to work these combinations.
Transferred to the fabric.
The first sample is outlined with mountmellick stitch and filled with back stitch and French knots. Detached chain stitches were worked around in circle and outlined with mountmellick stitch in the second sample, after filling the third sample with mountmellick stitch rows it is outlined with Portuguese stem stitch, the inner spine of the fourth sample is worked with two rows of buttonhole stitch and the outlie is worked in mountmellick stitch.
After outlining the fifth sample with mountmellick stitch straight stitches are worked. The spine in the sixth sample is worked with mountmellick stitch with detached chain and French knots and outlined with stem stitch. The seventh sample is a combo of fly stitch variation and mountmellick stitch.mountmellick stitch is combined with Danish knots on the eighth sample.
Ninth and tenth samples have french knots, satin stitches and mountmellick stitches.
Three rows of mountmellick stitches are worked with pistil stitches on eleventh sample. The mountmellick spine on twelfth sample is outlined with chain stitch. Mountmellick stitch veins are outlined with feather stitch in the thirteenth sample.wheatear stitch forms the spine of this mountmellick stitched outline of the fourteenth and the last sample.
The whole mountmellick stitch sampler.
I like the texture produced by this stitch. It is easier to manage than palestrina knot stitch. Since mountmellick embroidery is worked in white threads on white fabric, I wanted a sampler with totally different effect. Perle cotton #8 cooperated very well with the working of this stitch. I understand why I face problems with polyester threads. It is long way to go on this mountmellick embroidery journey, just feeling happy to have started this at this point,
January 23, 2017
This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally, the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
The threads used were-
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
The detail of the tunic.
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.
August 2, 2016
This is the second tunic with lemon green and white combination. This summer these two colours were predominant in the tunic embroidery projects.
The fabric is handloom cotton and the embroidery was done with white cotton skein and some details worked in white perle cotton #8. There are two design elements. The first element is borders which were worked on the sleeves.
The same border design was worked around the neck.
These designs were drawn by hand with a foot ruler. The pattern was drawn on the wrong side of the cloth and embroidery was also worked on the wrong side. The fabric being see-through, was placed on the pattern and the floral design was traced with a pencil.
Started the embroidery in the centre.
The work in progress of the floral design. The shadow work/ chikan work/ closed herringbone was worked with four strands of cotton skein. I felt the thickness of the thread will make the embroidery more prominent.
After working the herringbone stitches in cotton skein, white perle cotton# 8 was used to work the straight stitches inside the petals. These straight stitches were worked on the right side of the fabric.
The last detail of French knots worked on the flowers.
After the completion of the embroidery the fabric was given to tailor for sewing. The tunic
It has been a while since I have done chikan work embroidery. It is easy to work, that’s a blessing. The embroidery needs to cover fairly a large area because of the subtlety of the work and the colours used. The pattern-
This tunic does not have lining. If required a slip can be used. I have one in this green. Sometimes it is hard to get lining fabric in cotton in this place. Since a polyester fabric will take away the comfort factor, it is better to go without a lining.
June 7, 2016
My Knowledge about this Kota fabric is minimal. It comes in silk and cotton. I have worn and seen sarees made of this fabric. it is transparent and needs to be starched and ironed. This tunic fabric is block printed white cotton Kota. The green striped fabric is chosen for the embroidery.
The bright sun is an inspiration to wear white fabrics. The fabric colour was so pleasing and cool, I did not want the embroidery to overpower it.
Four big size square mirrors outlined in chain stitch with silver metallic thread and embellished with silver beads completed the embroidery.
The same green striped fabric used for the embroidery was used for outlining the neckline and sleeve borders.
The detail of the neck and embroidery. it is hard to take pictures of big mirrors!
May 22, 2016
This is the latest tunic where blue is matched with yellow and orange. In Muscat, Oman, we get oxidized silver accessories. Most of them have beads on them. Different shades of corals are available and they are coordinated with turquoise beads. These are feast for eyes in the souq. Mind slowly started generating patterns for projects built on these inspirations.
This tunic started with the yellow fabric printed with orange motifs. A kutchwork design with allowance for mirrors was drawn along with two other embroidery designs. The choice was to work the embroidery on yellow fabric or orange fabric. With the orange fabric being available yellow was the first colour chosen. The next choice was green. The fly stitches on the leaf pattern.
Two kutchwork motifs were worked in orange thread which was lighter than the fabric colour.
Another motif pattern had an option of being worked in two threads, the central diamond are worked in maroon thread.
Starting with the idea of incorporating blue into this design, the corners of this square motif was worked in blue thread.
The yellow from the fabric was the next colour, the same motif pattern which was worked in lighter orange was now worked in yellow thread.
The fly stitches are outlined with buttonhole stitch in lighter green thread.
Open chain stitches are worked in white thread to outline the mirrors inside the orange and yellow kutchwork motifs. The piece itself was outlined with back stitch.
Mirrors were worked in the same fabric yellow in the space between the leaf patterns.
Square mirrors in blue thread are worked inside the square motifs.
These blue beads are made of wood and dyed in blue.
The blue handloom cotton fabric with stripes was perfect for this set.
Outlining the embroidered piece and the sleeves with the yellow orange fabric was a good choice. Though this idea was mine, I could see the satisfaction in my tailor’s eyes. He is quite stingy with praises.
The pattern for this embroidery-