ethnic Indian pattern


I have been working on this sewn tunic this week.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht
The kutchwork pattern was traced onto the tunic with white carbon. Not a very bright idea.
The pattern-
WIPW127.oryelkutcht-pat
When a time was conducive I started with brown thread. The design was very light after so many weeks. The brown thread in Chennai sunlight did not match so well as in Muscat indoor light. Still eager to start the project, I started with the basic stitches with brown thread. While working on it bought red and yellow threads. After ensuring the points are covered with brown thread, started with the yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-1
The basic stitches in brown are interlaced with red thread. This looks much better than the dull brown. Controlling the urge to work mirrors.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-2
The four motifs below the neck was worked in red thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-3
The pattern is now is worked with yellow thread.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-4
The centre and other spaces are worked in half white thread. By this time the design from white carbon has completely vanished. This pattern was also drawn on 2mm graph paper.
WIPW127-oryelkutcht-5
The project is completed without mirrors.
WIPW127-orange yellow chanderi kutch tunic
The embroidery detail-
WIPW127-orange yellow kutch tunic-det
The tunic looks nice even without the embroidery. An outline stitch around the neck would have been sufficient.
The 17th stitch on SSS challenge seems like an easy stitch. Started working on the sampler today.

I am in Chennai, India for vacation. Embroidery is not part of this routine. Still some small assignments are worked in between other work. This tunic was worked in the summer of 2016.
After working two tunics in lemon green and white combination some pieces of lemon green fabric was lying around. A kutchwork embroidery seemed like a good idea. There was this tunic fabric in half white cotton block printed with the same colour.
whigremajekutch-f
I wanted to add another colour to this white. A medium majenta thread was chosen.
whigremajekutch-f2
Drawing diagonal kutchwork on 2mm graph paper gives a dainty look. The border pattern-
whigremajekutch-pb
The pattern below the neck-
whigremajekutch-py
I started with the first sleeve border.
whigremajekutch-1
Making the anchoring stiches was not so difficult. Care was required to work the stitch at the precise point and moving over or under the thread had to be accurate. The interlacing was not so easy, because of the daintiness of the pattern.
whigremajekutch-2
This is the same story in the second part of the journey, still it was better to work the outer squares.
whigremajekutch-3
Instead of looking for another colour, the single line kutch border was worked in green. An idea of working this border in white was considered and rejected.
whigremajekutch-4
I moved on to the yoke at this point. The kutch work in green thread.
whigremajekutch-y1
The basic kutch squares worked in majenta.
whigremajekutch-y2
Worked the border in majenta and the back stitch outline was worked in white. This piece was completed.
whigremajekutch-y3
The border on another sleeve was worked.
whigremajekutch-5
The embroidered pieces and the tunic fabric was given for sewing.

white green majenta kutch tunic
The detail.
white green majenta kutch tunic-det
After a while, a cotton fabric with same lemon colour tones was bought for salwar [ Indian  pants].
white green majenta kutch tunic-salwar
I wore this tunic set last week. It was cool.

I have been in India for the past few weeks. I could stay here till first week of May. Generally stitching comes to a standstill on a vacation. Browsing the net is minimal. This routine is not working now. Too much laziness is also not good. I might forget everything.
It is hard to work the stitch challenges. They are put on hold.
I have two sewn tunics to be embroidered. The first tunic is mangalagiri with chanderi silk cotton patch.
WIPW126-oryelkutcht-1
I had drawn a kutch work design is Muscat for this. The embroidery on this tunic was started.
WIPW126-oryelkutcht-2
The second tunic in white mull fabric on which mirrorwork needs to be done on the black borders.
wipw126-whblamullmirt-1
My neighbour is sewing a blouse for her sister. She wanted a simple embroidery on it. We have bought some red and white stones for embellishing. The fabric needs to be marked.
WIPW126-peachb-1
These information posted here is for motivating me to start doing some embroidery work.

Challenges
On SSS challenge there is a new stitch- Japanese darning stitch. A sampler was worked yesterday.
On TAST 2017 also has a new stitch this week, fancy herringbone stitch, which was not part of earlier TAST challenges. Hoping to start this stitch sampler today or tomorrow.
The NESSAL and RPW2016 were not started or touched this week.
Zardsosi
After working the stem and arrowhead stitches, green zardosi beads are used for filling the paisleys and the space between the arrowhead stitches. I have started working the beads on the last outline, but yet to take the picture.
wipw121-cresilkbanrasizardosi-5
Cross stitch
The sleeves of a navy blue polyester linen tunic will have cross stitch borders on them. Two borders were chosen from files downloaded on the internet.
After securing the edges of the Aida with buttonhole stitches, the borders were started. Three shades of blue and one dark red are to be used on this project. Work on this project will be after the completion of the zardosi embroidery.

wipw121-nbluepolinencross-3

Challenges
On Sunday stitch school challenge last week’s heavy chain stitch was worked on folk design in red thread. This week’s stitch is interlaced running stitch. Expecting to start the sampler today.
TAST challenge continues from today. This week’s stitch is magic chain or checkered chain. The link to the earlier worked sampler was posted on FB group page.
No progress at all on RPW 2016 challenge. Another challenge for 2017 has started on their blog last week.
Never ending sampler SAL is still in stage of  browsing the other people’s work.
Zardosi
Started with green threads on this piece. Some more progress has been made on the curves with a lighter green thread on the curves. The picture will be taken after completing this treatment. Content with the progress on this project this week. It was slightly boring to work the chain stitches. Now working on stem stitch.
wipw120-cresilkbanarasizardosi-4
If a change is required, a different project has to be worked, which will take time from this project.

This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally,  the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
sanchik-yokepat
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
sanchik-sleevepat
The threads used were-
sanchik-threads
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
sanchik-1
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
sanchik-2
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
sanchik-3
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
sanchik-yokedet
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
sanchik-sleeve-det
The detail of the tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic-det
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.

Stitch Challenges
RPW 2016
This was not touched this whole week, except for the taking a picture of the work left stand still. There is a  fear that if this is not attended soon this will become an unfinished project.

WIPW118-rpw2016

WIPW118-rpw2016

January 17th is the next date for the stitch of the week to be announced on newest TAST challenge.
SSS
Four sided stitch was SSS stitch in December. This stitch sampler was completed this week. The latest stitch is gate stitch. Seems like a simple stitch and the samples could be worked on canvas.
All my embroidery projects were not worked for some time. I am in a dilemma whether to embark on a new project [being new year and all that] or try tackling the neglected ones. To get over this , both options were tried.
Kantha work
The kantha work on sleeves of this maroon and ikat tunic was restarted. This time it was anchor skein. Still working on the sleeve.

WIPW118-marblaikatkantha-5

WIPW118-marblaikatkantha-5

Leaf stitches or fishbone stitches are started on the linen string bag. Anchor cotton skein in three colours are combined to create these leaves.

WIPW118-sbag'16 [1]

WIPW118-sbag’16 [1]


Zardosi
Started chain stitches with gold metallic thread on this raw silk piece. This is a new project.

WIPW118-cresilkbanrasizardosi-3

WIPW118-cresilkbanrasizardosi-3

Though it has been a busy week stitching wise, I am not able to decide on one project. May be, after starting on SSS sampler, this can be decided.

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