ethnic design


This past week was quite busy. I am yet to get back to the stitch challenge routine. Generally working the stitch sampler starts on Friday. One weekend of Dubai trip, meant there was no time to work the new stitch during that week. So this week two stitches needed to be tackled on SSS challenge.
Yesterday, I tried the Madame Totsuka’s loop stitch. It was not as difficult as it looked. It is just hard to get a neat look. A small sampler can be worked.
The Holbein stitch is the next stitch. After looking at the embroidery on internet for so many years, an idea to learn, practice, work, getting familiar with types of embroideries has been taking root on my mind. It is a long process. Procrastinating, finding excuses that there are so many UFO’s, not having enough time, involves lot of planning and hard work – all these facts will be always be there. It has to start somewhere. So seeing this Holbein stitch on SSS challenge, I decided to start on Kasuti embroidery sampler. This embroidery from Karnataka, India predominantly uses Holbein stitch or double running stitch. I bought three books on this embroidery two years ago. Planning to start working the kasuti border patterns available on the second book.
WIPW143-kasuti-book2borders
The  week’s TAST challenge stitches were worked on previous challenges.

Projects
Violet matka silk tunic
The leaves worked on pink fabric for violet matka silk tunic are also embellished with zardosi beads. Detached chain stitch with the green zardosi in the middle is the detail I am working now.
WIPW143-msilkzardosi-7
Green blouse
The embroidery is worked on black fabric for this blouse. Stem stitches and detached chain stitches are worked in cotton skein, the same colour as the green fabric.
WIPW143-greenbl-2
This is the progress made during the week.

After the holidays, this week was fairly productive week on embroidery.
Stitch challenges
This week’s stitch on TAST challenge is woven trellis stitch, the samples of which were worked twice on earlier TAST challenges. The post linking them was uploaded on FB group page.
Today I started working this week’s stitch on SSS challenge. The details of the samples will be posted after the sampler is completed. conclusion- favourite stitch – buttonhole.
Projects
The work on green benarasi georgette was completed. The details will be posted soon.
Two kutchwork borders in red thread were worked on this cream neck pattern. It is ready to go to the tailor.
WIPW139-blublot-kutch-5
After working another chain stitch outline in pink thread, I started to work the stem stitches in green.
WIPW139-msilkzardosi-4
This week’s fascination was rilli applique technique on the net. When the professionals do the work it looks easy, but it needs to be practiced.
We have a few regions in India- Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Orissa, Rajasthan, Gujarat- where this technique is used. In Uttarpradesh and Bihar it is used on clothing on light colours. In Rajasthan this is used on bridal dresses with metallic ribbons, in Orissa it is worked on home décor, including umbrellas and hall decorations, it gives a totally different look. The colours are bright and eye catching. In Gujarat it used with other embroidery techniques.

We are having Ramadhan holidays now. It is a leisurely routine this past week. It is a day late to post this week’s progress.
It was revision week on SSS challenge. The new stitch of this week is yet to be explored. The TAST challenge stitches were worked earlier.
Projects
After working the outline stitches in chain stitch with various violet threads, outlining the flower started this week. These flowers will later be filled with zardosi tubes.
WIPW138-msilkzardosi-4
On the kutchwork and other embroidery stitches on the neck line for this blue block printed tunic, some progress was made. The outlines were worked in black thread. the triangles are outlined in back stitch with dark red thread.
WIPW138-blublot-kutch-4
I am hoping to complete the bead work around the neck on green benarasi georgette tunic this week.
Many tunic projects are there to be designed, still my evenings are spent browsing the net for tatting patterns. An idea of designing kutchwork patterns based on kolams [decorative designs drawn with powder on floor during festivals] has been brewing in mind for some time. This is an interesting project, but will consume a lot of time. Still dreaming about the possibilities gives pleasure.

The second part of the cream mirror work yoke starts with the cream tunic being short. It was not matching well with the striped salwar because of the length. An idea of attaching another fabric was considered and rejected. The new fabric might clash with the salwar again. So a decision was made to keep this tunic aside and a lavender colour fabric which will go well with the striped salwar was chosen on the last visit to India. The lavender fabric needed some embroidery. While browsing through the wardrobe, it seemed like a good idea to stitch this cream mirror work on to this lavender fabric. Tailor did a nice job of taking out the embroidered pieces and stitched them on to this lavender tunic. The gold beads had to go.
The sleeves on lavender tunic.
lavmirt-sleeves
The tunic with cream mirror work attached to the front.
lavender mirrorwork tunic

lavmirt
Now this piece does not have enough lavender elements. I started with working chain stitch in variegated silk thread inside the curves.
lavmirt-1
There was some unworked space near the shoulder. The embroidery was extended to cover the space. It was helpful to have a record of the thread colours worked earlier.
lavmirt-2
After working chain stitch with variegated thread, a line of stem stitch and up and down buttonhole stitch combination was worked beside the orange outline in antique violet thread.
lavmirt-3
To reduce the cream colour on fabric and enhance the lavender colour, small triangles were worked with herringbone filling.
lavmirt-4a
The yoke after working these triangles.
lavmirt-4b
The same idea of triangles worked in herringbone filling was extended to neck border too.
lavmirt-5
The completed yoke.
cream mirror work on lavender tunic
The tunic set is ready to wear now.

The story of this yoke starts with this striped cotton fabric.
cremirt-salwar
Thinking all these colours can be used for embroidery on a cream base, a cream cotton fabric was chosen for the tunic. This cream mangalagiri handloom cotton fabric was given to the tailor for marking the front and sleeves.

And  a simple border design was embroidered on the sleeves.
cremirt-sleeves
The pattern for the same.
cremirt-pats
The embroidery for this mirror work started with green colour skein. The mirror outlines were worked n chain stitch, the curls were worked in stem stitch and the leaves in leaf stitch.
cremirt-1
The second stage was to work the orange colour skein. Chain stitches and buttonhole stitches were worked with this thread.
cremirt-2
Next in line was the antique violet colour skein. The triangles around the neck were worked in buttonhole stitches and the second mirror outlines were worked in chain stitch.
cremirt-3
The last outline around mirrors were worked in polyester gold colour thread.
cremirt-4
The diamond shaped mirrors were outlined with variegated polyester thread.
cremirt-5
The remaining chain stitch outlines were worked in yellow colour skein.
cremirt-6
The same yellow skein was used for working all the mirrors.
cremirt-7
Oval shaped gold bead was the last detail to be worked on this embroidery.
cremirt-8
The pattern for this yoke.
cremirt-paty
The completed tunic.
cream mirror work tunic
This was the story of this tunic in 2014. After two and a half years, the same yoke became a part of another tunic. Which will be narrated later.

I have been in India for the past few weeks. I could stay here till first week of May. Generally stitching comes to a standstill on a vacation. Browsing the net is minimal. This routine is not working now. Too much laziness is also not good. I might forget everything.
It is hard to work the stitch challenges. They are put on hold.
I have two sewn tunics to be embroidered. The first tunic is mangalagiri with chanderi silk cotton patch.
WIPW126-oryelkutcht-1
I had drawn a kutch work design is Muscat for this. The embroidery on this tunic was started.
WIPW126-oryelkutcht-2
The second tunic in white mull fabric on which mirrorwork needs to be done on the black borders.
wipw126-whblamullmirt-1
My neighbour is sewing a blouse for her sister. She wanted a simple embroidery on it. We have bought some red and white stones for embellishing. The fabric needs to be marked.
WIPW126-peachb-1
These information posted here is for motivating me to start doing some embroidery work.

Challenges
On Sunday stitch school challenge last week’s heavy chain stitch was worked on folk design in red thread. This week’s stitch is interlaced running stitch. Expecting to start the sampler today.
TAST challenge continues from today. This week’s stitch is magic chain or checkered chain. The link to the earlier worked sampler was posted on FB group page.
No progress at all on RPW 2016 challenge. Another challenge for 2017 has started on their blog last week.
Never ending sampler SAL is still in stage of  browsing the other people’s work.
Zardosi
Started with green threads on this piece. Some more progress has been made on the curves with a lighter green thread on the curves. The picture will be taken after completing this treatment. Content with the progress on this project this week. It was slightly boring to work the chain stitches. Now working on stem stitch.
wipw120-cresilkbanarasizardosi-4
If a change is required, a different project has to be worked, which will take time from this project.

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