phulkari


The geometric motif for this tunic is worked in phulkari embroidery.
This embroidery is part of ethnic Indian embroideries.it is done in Punjab part of India and Pakistan too. In those parts the whole fabric is covered with embroidery. But I have chosen to work this embroidery on a square motif for this yoke space.
The motif with the second thread-yellow-

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Combination of green and brown thread-

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Two strands of skeins are used for this embroidery.

This tunic fabric is block printed with florals in cotton. This type  of light cottons are ideal for hot climates, and suitable for casual wear, with these prints. the base colour of this tunic is yellow/brown. The flowers were on shades of red.
The yoke fabric chosen for this tunic was green/yellow. Four repeating geometric motifs was the pattern to be embroidered. This is a small yoke. the colours used were, green, yellow, variegated red and white. The variegated red thread was silk and others were cotton skeins.
the motifs with medium green colour thread-

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The embroidery stitches were, surface satin stitch, Rhodes stitch for the centre, and straight stitches.

The stitches used in this yoke border were satin stitch and back stitch and chain stitch. Silk threads were used for filling and white cotton skein for outline.
The next colour was a mixture of orange and yellow, which had a metallic sheen to it-

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The outline was done in bright orange silk thread-

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Embroidery stitches were completed in back stitches  with white thread-

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After adding the gold beads, the yoke set was placed over the tunic-

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Then the whole set was given to the tailor for sewing. The colour of the block print of the tunic fabric was chosen for salwar[Indian pants] .
The sewn tunic –

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The close up of the yoke-

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The sleeves-

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The tailor did a good job on this tunic, I love the shape of the yoke, with two fabrics, it was interesting, to work the positions. With the printed fabric for the centre, the designing was easier.

The surface stitches are completed on this yoke, the last part of the embroidery is to work the outlines in double running stitch, I thought I had worked with back stitch, but found that they were actually double running stitch. Though the design was Mexican, I was working phulkari embroidery on it.

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The yoke was placed over the tunic fabric to see the effect, another photo disaster.

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The yoke and the tunic fabric was given for sewing, on which the tailor did a good job.
The completed tunic-

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Close up picture of the same.

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The length of this tunic is such that , it can be worn with trousers or leggings.

I am happy of choosing this dark pink fabric for yoke, it worked well for this tunic.

The embroidery in this yoke is done in surface satin stitch. The outlining is done in back stitch. The next colour silk thread was light pink. The dark pink thread which was used earlier was not very visible on this piece, to complete the colour co-ordination, I used this colour.

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the centre motif was influenced by ethnic Mexican design, I used medium and light blue for this motif, which are the colours on the tunic. This picture did not come out very well, I realized only after it was transferred, couldn’t take another one because, I had passed on to the next stage of the embroidery.

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The last filling stitch was in medium blue colour.

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The completed yoke, will be posted tomorrow.

This tunic is a medium blue, hand loom woven ikat fabric. I wanted to wear this as short top [kurthi] over jeans or trousers. And the idea was to use, an ethnic design which had bold geometric elements. The tunic fabric

blue ikat-fabric

The yoke fabric was in dark pink.

blue ikat-yoke frabic

An Mexican,[ or early Indian] pattern was chosen for embroidery. Then this was drawn to suit my requirements. With the yoke fabric being dark, I did not use bold colours for embroidery.
The first thread colour was dark pink, this shape will be outlined later with cream colour thread. The filling of shapes were done with surface satin stitches[ or phulkari as in ethnic Indian embroidery].

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The working of this ethnic pattern will be continued on my next post.

Now that the embroidery has been completed for this small yoke, I was in a hurry to place it on the tunic fabric to see how it looked, LOL! The tunic fabric is upside down in this picture. I noticed it only when I was writing this post.

phulkari yoke on tunic

Nothing can be done now, At least the tailor stitched it properly.
A lace in cream colour was attached to the sleeves. The completed tunic looks like this-

phulkari yoke- completed tunic

Not a good picture though.
I noticed that the space between the motifs required some adornment, so I stitched two big sized mirrors there.
With the mirrors –

phulkari yoke on maroon tunic-with mirrors

 

I am yet to wear this tunic. After doing a lagartera embroidery on a blouse for someone else, I thought I would do a similar geometrical pattern on one of my tunics too.this I worked in phulkari embroidery, with mirrors.

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