phulkari


The filling stitches of Beyond TAST challenge was explored a little in this week. A few more worked and needs to be posted on the blog.
The 73rd and 74th week stitches of SSS challenge were worked during this week too. The images are also waiting to be posted. It is hard to find time to work on the computer.
Red and black raw silk tunic
The squares marked on this red and black tunic were filled with closed herringbone stitches. The stitches were then pinned down with chain stitches. The outlines are also worked in chain stitch. Since, the thread used is the same colour as the red fabric, the work is not clearly seen.
WIPW192-redblatp-2
The sleeves did not have the black fabric outline as the neck, chain stitch rows were worked on both sleeves in black thread.
WIPW192-redblatp-3
An idea of stitching red stones on the red fabric has to be tried.

 

The work on stitch challenges are still lagging in this week too. This is the last week on the current Beyond TAST challenge. I am hoping to start on SSS challenge stitch today.
The embroidery on Aqua green was completed and the tunic is with the tailor.
My friend had a red and black raw silk tunic stitched, the red fabric needs to be lengthier than it is now.
An idea of filling squares diagonally with herringbone stitch starts with 2cms marking on the black fabric.
WIPW191-redblatp-1
I am using two strands of cotton skein[same colour as the red fabric], I may have to work a row of back or chain stitch over it. The space is too much for the right tension. A thicker or more strands would have helped, but it would have raised the embroidery, which is not required.

The progress on stitching during this week on the projects was not much. Still keeping with the flow from the support of Pintangle, The 11th and 12th edges on randje per week challenge was completed.

18.wipwednesdays-rpw11,12

18.wipwednesdays-rpw11,12

The yellow tunic is with the tailor, hoping to get it next week. This tunic is different, because sleeves are woven chanderi silk [a silk variety woven from a region called chanderi in India].
I completed last week’s TAST stitch yesterday.
Moving on to another tunic, this block printed fine cotton fabric with border-

18.wipwednesdays-whgreytunic1

18.wipwednesdays-whgreytunic1

The embroidery chosen for this is geometrical Phulkari work. This ethnic embroidery is from Punjab, India. It is also prevalent in Pakistan , I suppose. The yoke-

18.wipwednesdays-whgrey tunic2

18.wipwednesdays-whgrey tunic2

Along with noting ideas, learning to draw the ideas on the journal before working on a project for the class, some designs for tunics were explored during this week. I am not mentioning the hussif this week.

The tunic fabric is woven ikat in tussar silk.

phulkari on blue ikat-fabric

phulkari on blue ikat-fabric

I liked the fabric design and colour. It also has a Florentine border, commonly referred to as temple border. It is ideal for saree, blouse and tops. To go with this geometrical theme, I drew a pattern on graph paper.

phulkari on blue ikat-pattern

phulkari on blue ikat-pattern

I wanted the embroidery to look like weave, so I chose phulkari embroidery, embroidery from Punjab, a state in India. In phulkari embroidery, the geometrical designs are filled with surface satin stitches. This embroidery is done on stoles, tunics, shawls, sarees and furnishings.
A light green fabric was chosen to do this work. The tunic-

phulkari on blue ikat-tunic

phulkari on blue ikat-tunic

These extra elements were added –chain stitch outline in pink, back stitch outlines in white to differentiate the degrees of the blue colour, and small white pearls for embellishment.

phulkari on blue ikat-embroidery detail

phulkari on blue ikat-embroidery detail

The border of the tunic fabric was sewn on the sleeves and the front part of the tunic. The fillings were not easy to work, if looked closely, the embroidery does not look very neat. Still it was fine as a project.

The embroidery is very simple on this block printed dark pink tunic. The fabric is cotton. Surprisingly, the fabric seems to retain its colour even after bleeding quite a bit.

pink blue fabric

pink blue fabric

The pattern was evenly placed small triangles worked in surface satin stitch with two strands of cotton skein.  This can be categorized as phulkari embroidery of Punjab, India with a modern  application.The yoke placed over the tunic fabric.

pink blue yoke

pink blue yoke

The sewn tunic, the tailor is creative here in designing the neck line similar to the block print pattern.

pink blue tunic

pink blue tunic

The yoke worked with phulkari embroidery is placed on the tunic fabric, since these blog posts are done from India , the pictures on these posts are not edited completely. It would have been helpful to see the tunic fabric alone , to get a different inspiration for the embroidery design.

greephulyk-6

The tunic fabric is really bright. the tunic was then sewn by the tailor with three pin tucks on both sides of the yoke. the picture of the tunic-

greephulyk-tunic

The pattern for this motif was inspired by a quilt design.

The embroidery of this phulkari yoke is done in surface satin stitch. The prominent colour is red for this tunic, so a variegated silk thread, with shades of red and yellow is used for filling the triangles on these motifs-

greephulyk-4

White thread is used for outlining the centre, and embellishing the corners with surface satin and fly stitches.

greephulyk-5

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