phulkari


The progress on stitching during this week on the projects was not much. Still keeping with the flow from the support of Pintangle, The 11th and 12th edges on randje per week challenge was completed.

18.wipwednesdays-rpw11,12

18.wipwednesdays-rpw11,12

The yellow tunic is with the tailor, hoping to get it next week. This tunic is different, because sleeves are woven chanderi silk [a silk variety woven from a region called chanderi in India].
I completed last week’s TAST stitch yesterday.
Moving on to another tunic, this block printed fine cotton fabric with border-

18.wipwednesdays-whgreytunic1

18.wipwednesdays-whgreytunic1

The embroidery chosen for this is geometrical Phulkari work. This ethnic embroidery is from Punjab, India. It is also prevalent in Pakistan , I suppose. The yoke-

18.wipwednesdays-whgrey tunic2

18.wipwednesdays-whgrey tunic2

Along with noting ideas, learning to draw the ideas on the journal before working on a project for the class, some designs for tunics were explored during this week. I am not mentioning the hussif this week.

The tunic fabric is woven ikat in tussar silk.

phulkari on blue ikat-fabric

phulkari on blue ikat-fabric

I liked the fabric design and colour. It also has a Florentine border, commonly referred to as temple border. It is ideal for saree, blouse and tops. To go with this geometrical theme, I drew a pattern on graph paper.

phulkari on blue ikat-pattern

phulkari on blue ikat-pattern

I wanted the embroidery to look like weave, so I chose phulkari embroidery, embroidery from Punjab, a state in India. In phulkari embroidery, the geometrical designs are filled with surface satin stitches. This embroidery is done on stoles, tunics, shawls, sarees and furnishings.
A light green fabric was chosen to do this work. The tunic-

phulkari on blue ikat-tunic

phulkari on blue ikat-tunic

These extra elements were added –chain stitch outline in pink, back stitch outlines in white to differentiate the degrees of the blue colour, and small white pearls for embellishment.

phulkari on blue ikat-embroidery detail

phulkari on blue ikat-embroidery detail

The border of the tunic fabric was sewn on the sleeves and the front part of the tunic. The fillings were not easy to work, if looked closely, the embroidery does not look very neat. Still it was fine as a project.

The embroidery is very simple on this block printed dark pink tunic. The fabric is cotton. Surprisingly, the fabric seems to retain its colour even after bleeding quite a bit.

pink blue fabric

pink blue fabric

The pattern was evenly placed small triangles worked in surface satin stitch with two strands of cotton skein.  This can be categorized as phulkari embroidery of Punjab, India with a modern  application.The yoke placed over the tunic fabric.

pink blue yoke

pink blue yoke

The sewn tunic, the tailor is creative here in designing the neck line similar to the block print pattern.

pink blue tunic

pink blue tunic

The yoke worked with phulkari embroidery is placed on the tunic fabric, since these blog posts are done from India , the pictures on these posts are not edited completely. It would have been helpful to see the tunic fabric alone , to get a different inspiration for the embroidery design.

greephulyk-6

The tunic fabric is really bright. the tunic was then sewn by the tailor with three pin tucks on both sides of the yoke. the picture of the tunic-

greephulyk-tunic

The pattern for this motif was inspired by a quilt design.

The embroidery of this phulkari yoke is done in surface satin stitch. The prominent colour is red for this tunic, so a variegated silk thread, with shades of red and yellow is used for filling the triangles on these motifs-

greephulyk-4

White thread is used for outlining the centre, and embellishing the corners with surface satin and fly stitches.

greephulyk-5

The geometric motif for this tunic is worked in phulkari embroidery.
This embroidery is part of ethnic Indian embroideries.it is done in Punjab part of India and Pakistan too. In those parts the whole fabric is covered with embroidery. But I have chosen to work this embroidery on a square motif for this yoke space.
The motif with the second thread-yellow-

greephulyk-2

Combination of green and brown thread-

greephulyk-3

Two strands of skeins are used for this embroidery.

This tunic fabric is block printed with florals in cotton. This type  of light cottons are ideal for hot climates, and suitable for casual wear, with these prints. the base colour of this tunic is yellow/brown. The flowers were on shades of red.
The yoke fabric chosen for this tunic was green/yellow. Four repeating geometric motifs was the pattern to be embroidered. This is a small yoke. the colours used were, green, yellow, variegated red and white. The variegated red thread was silk and others were cotton skeins.
the motifs with medium green colour thread-

greephul-1

The embroidery stitches were, surface satin stitch, Rhodes stitch for the centre, and straight stitches.

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