kutchwork


The embroidery and mirror work was completed on the blue fabric. It is ready to go to the tailor. That will take a while, we have holidays for Ramadhan from tomorrow.

WIPW56-blmirt-6

WIPW56-blmirt-6

As mentioned in the last post I have started the embroidery on this red chanderi silk/cotton tunic. This tunic fabric was with me for a long time. I had seen a tunic design on an online shop. This tunic had sequin work border on dark red fabric for sleeves and collar . It also had some motifs with the same theme on the tunic. Holding on to this design idea kept the tunic in the shelf for a long time.

WIPW56-redchant-1

WIPW56-redchant-1

I have decided to modify this idea. The new one has a narrow panel with embroidery and gold beads. The embroidery was started with cotton skein on dark red fabric.

WIPW56-redchant-2

WIPW56-redchant-2

While following Sharon’ blog, came across TAST challenge, which was started yesterday. It will be a Rerun of the previous challenge for the time being. Some ideas of fabric book are floated on the face book page of the same challenge.
I do seem to have worked lots of samples of the first week’s stitch- Fly. I have been wanting to explore embroidery stitches and their usage for some time. Why not combine the weekly challenge idea and my explorations? Still thinking about this a lot and hoping to have some schedule to work on these various ideas this week.

I also found this blog Tenar’s cave has a challenge Stitch Sunday. Seems interesting. Lots of thinking and work to do.

The tunic fabric is mangalagiri cotton with maroon and  yellow stripes.

yelmarmirt-fabric

yelmarmirt-fabric

I came across a geometric border on a tunic in a shop. This was a printed border. I wanted use this design idea for embroidery on tunic. This inspired pattern had both mirror and kutch work elements.

yelmarmirt-pattern

yelmarmirt-pattern

Starting with metallic thread and small kutch elements.

yelmarmirt-1

yelmarmirt-1

Chain stitch outline in green thread.

yelmarmirt-2

yelmarmirt-2

The same green thread is used for continuous kutchwork design.

yelmarmirt-3

yelmarmirt-3

Medium square mirrors were stitched on this embroidered border.

yelmarmirt-4

yelmarmirt-4

It was hard to take a straight picture of this tunic, because of the mirrors.

yellow maroon mirrorwork tunic

yellow maroon mirrorwork tunic

The detail of the sewn tunic with embroidery.

yelmarmirt-det

yelmarmirt-det

This being a geometric design, it also was an inspiration for this black work border. I have not used this pattern.

yelmarmirt- blackwork pattern

yelmarmirt- blackwork pattern

This is the last past of the series in hand embroidery on wearable. In this post we’ll consider some ideas of designing embroidery on tunics which are marked for necklines and sleeves. By this method it is possible to work any type of embroidery of our choice on wearable. Ready to wear tunics are made this way on large scale.
The fabrics are marked for necklines, sleeves, slits, shoulders, borders. The chosen embroidery designs are transferred on to the fabrics. These fabrics are secured on big rectangular embroidery frames. The embroidery is done by embroiderers trained for this. After the embroidery is completed, the fabrics are taken away from the frames and sewn by tailors.
But we can do it on a small scale. After choosing the embroidery design, we can ask the tailor [or if a person is good tailor, then help themselves] to mark the places on the fabric to work the embroidery. Using these markings as guidelines, we can transfer the pattern on the fabrics. After completing the embroidery, the fabrics can be sewn into tunics, blouses, shirts… as the case may be.
Here are few samples of embroidered tunics, which were marked, embroidered and sewn into tunics.
This mangalagiri cotton tunic with stripes was marked with neckline. This was in early days when I was trying this idea. Though it was marked, the pattern chosen for this kutchwork embroidery was set apart from the actual neck line. After embroidering on the pattern, I added some small kutchwork motifs below the neck.

eowet-09

eowet-09

The shirt fabric is linen and the idea was to work white work on this. The markings were made according to the pattern, which was to be worked on both sides in the front. Crochet edging was worked later on the sleeve. This embroidery was a tough project, linen fabric did not help.

eowet-10

eowet-10

This yellow tunic is cotton. The pattern was transferred on to the front, where a marking was made for the neck. White and yellow carbons were ruled out on this colour. Green carbon paper was used to transfer the pattern. The marking is still on the neck to show the difference between the neck line on pattern and the actual neckline!

eowet-11

eowet-11

This mangalagiri cotton tunic has kantha embroidery on it. The tailor had marked a simple round neck. The pattern transfer and embroidery were worked on front and sleeves based on that. Seeing the work, he changed the neckline to this beautiful one. Sometimes it is better to leave some small space around the neck, to facilitate these kind of surprises. There is also a possibility of the tailor cutting off a small part of embroidery during his course of work.

eowet-12

eowet-12

The pattern for this kutchwork embroidery was drawn with this neck design. It was transferred on to the marked fabric. This tunic sample is a proof of a good coordination of pattern neckline and the tunic neckline.

eowet-13

eowet-13

The embroidery design for this cotton mangalagiri tunic was picked from a salwar design magazine. The tailor had this magazine with him. When I wanted to do this project, he not only marked but also explained where each and every element should be placed. Based on the inspiration and the guidance, this pattern was drawn and embroidered. Around the neck I had to draw the elements by hand to get the same effect. Still it was worth it. This embroidery has surface satin stitch on it.

eowet-14

eowet-14

Each and every design on these samples was chosen for that particular tunic in mind and they were all worked with the help of the markings made by the tailor.
We can work any embroidery on the tunic fabric in this manner. Important thing to note is to check whether the fabric is suitable for that embroidery. It is not just designing the embroidery, the tunic style is also kept in mind. It is a very interesting work. Practice, perseverance, eye for colours, basic calculations and understanding of fabrics and embroidery are the tools.
Enjoy designing and embroidering on wearable.

The second black work border in dark brown thread was worked this week on the aida cloth. It is nearing completion on one side. This border is also worked continuously and completed in the return journey.

WIPW54-beigebwt-7

WIPW54-beigebwt-7

Small straight stitches were worked around the kutchwork motifs on the mirror work yoke.

WIPW54-blmirt-5

WIPW54-blmirt-5

Drawing kalamkari patterns is very interesting. Now I know why some people enjoy zentangles. The repetitive patterns are really relaxing. I listen to some sleep inducing music during this exercise. Working half an hour at night seems ideal now.

WIPW54-kalam-2

WIPW54-kalam-2

I have progressed on the black work central piece. A continuous border was worked this week with double running stitch.  This border needs to be worked on the other side too.This project is also helping in learning this stitch with a neat back side. The pattern  inspiration is from kasuti embroidery .

WIPW52-beigebwt-5

WIPW52-beigebwt-5

Satin stitches are used for filling these small triangles in the blue mirror work project. This yoke provides a good diversion from the long black work piece.

WIPW52-blmirt-3

WIPW52-blmirt-3

I was browsing through the kalamkari images for inspiration this week. There are lots of inspirational images. Idea of drawing these designs occupies the mind. It‘ll be good thing to learn drawing on a sketch book, which can be used later. This exercise can improve the drawing skill and help in embroidery also. This can be another hobby. One mercerized cotton ikat is waiting for a good kalamkari panel!
I am also collecting pictures of my old embroidered tunics to use as samples to explain the procedure of embroidery on wearable. The series started two weeks before.

This week was more of searching for inspiration for patterns. The beads and stones were added to the blue green crepe tunic. it is awaiting its turn to go to the tailor.

wipw43-blugrencrepet-7

wipw43-blugrencrepet-7

This week’s randjes on Randje per week2015 challenge were simple.

wipw43-rwp2015-21,22

wipw43-rwp2015-21,22

The kutchwork border samples based on these were also simple.
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I could complete them on the same day.

wipw43-kw-22

wipw43-kw-22

Some progress on kutchwork on brown linen tunic. Half of the kutchwork pattern is done in red thread, which is not very clear. but it is there!

wipw43-redbrownt-3

wipw43-redbrownt-3

I am in search of embroidery patterns for tunic, samplers. Once in a while I have the habit of downloading old pattern books. From a book of Hungarian motifs, this pattern  repeat was picked up. Still not clear about the project on which this will be used.

wipw43-book pat-1

wipw43-book pat-1

This is from another book. I want to expand this pattern. Project is not yet decided. It was hard to find the source of these books now. All I can say that these are not mine.

wipw43-book pat2

wipw43-book pat2

I am reveling in the process of browsing the net for ideas at the moment.

This week’s randjes were combined with straight stitches. Simple and effective edges. The free graph for these edges are here.

rpw2015-21,22

rpw2015-21,22

The kutchwork borders are simple based on these randjes.

kw-21

kw-21

Single kutchwork squares are worked  along with straight stitches.

kw-22

kw-22

These single kutchwork  squares being very easy to work with, instructions are not necessary.
The pattern-

rpw-kw-21-pattern

rpw-kw-21-pattern

Pattern#22

rpw-kw-22-pattern

rpw-kw-22-pattern

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