kantha


Stitch Challenges
RPW 2016
This was not touched this whole week, except for the taking a picture of the work left stand still. There is a  fear that if this is not attended soon this will become an unfinished project.

WIPW118-rpw2016

WIPW118-rpw2016

January 17th is the next date for the stitch of the week to be announced on newest TAST challenge.
SSS
Four sided stitch was SSS stitch in December. This stitch sampler was completed this week. The latest stitch is gate stitch. Seems like a simple stitch and the samples could be worked on canvas.
All my embroidery projects were not worked for some time. I am in a dilemma whether to embark on a new project [being new year and all that] or try tackling the neglected ones. To get over this , both options were tried.
Kantha work
The kantha work on sleeves of this maroon and ikat tunic was restarted. This time it was anchor skein. Still working on the sleeve.

WIPW118-marblaikatkantha-5

WIPW118-marblaikatkantha-5

Leaf stitches or fishbone stitches are started on the linen string bag. Anchor cotton skein in three colours are combined to create these leaves.

WIPW118-sbag'16 [1]

WIPW118-sbag’16 [1]


Zardosi
Started chain stitches with gold metallic thread on this raw silk piece. This is a new project.

WIPW118-cresilkbanrasizardosi-3

WIPW118-cresilkbanrasizardosi-3

Though it has been a busy week stitching wise, I am not able to decide on one project. May be, after starting on SSS sampler, this can be decided.

Stitch challenges
RPW 2016 chart of the week was completed on Saturday.
This week’s stitch on Sunday Stitch School challenge is Danish knot stitch. I want work the samples as a band sampler. Still in the process of thinking on this sampler.
TAST 2016 week’s stitch is Twisted lattice band. The samples were worked in 2014. The link to the details was posted on Pintangle and TAST FB group.
Marash embroidery
Yellow silk tunic
After completing the pattern in yellow thread, I started with light green thread.

WIPW114-yelprinkutch-3

WIPW114-yelprinkutch-3

Copper mangalagiri tunic has bead work along the border and is now ready to wear.
A design was drawn for embroidery on a string bag. The idea for this embroidery was from Mary’s Needle and thread blog.

WIPW114-sbag'16-1-1

WIPW114-sbag’16-1-1

I also picked up the kantha work on black fabric for maroon black ikat tunic.

WIPW114-marblaikatkantha-4

WIPW114-marblaikatkantha-4

This tunic with printed chanderi fabric on the neck, hem and sleeves came from the tailor. This project needs a small motif to be worked below the neck.

WIPW114-orayelchanderikutch-1

WIPW114-orayelchanderikutch-1

Now to start the Danish knot sampler.

This is a stitch which I have been wanting to explore on a sampler. The working of the stitch, the tips to work are provided by Queenie, who is doing this Sunday stitch school, on her blog.
This is a versatile stitch. This stitch is used in so many ways over the years on my various embroidery projects. This was first stitch to be taught on our needle class in school to sew two pieces of cloth.
Now the details of the sampler-
The samples are worked in even weave cloth. It is easier to work this stitch on this cloth. The first is the basic back stitch, the second sample is back stitches worked with space between them. Looks like running stitch, but because of the way thread moves below the surface, it is more secure. The third sample are long and short back stitches worked alternatively.

SSS2016.2.backst-1

SSS2016.2.backst-1

This sample is zigzag back stitch. This version was used many times on my embroidery projects.

SSS2016.2.backst-2a

SSS2016.2.backst-2a

The zigzag back stitch looks like this on the back, this makes another linear stitch, may not be as secure as two rows of back stitch, but will save some thread!

SSS2016.2.backst-2b

SSS2016.2.backst-2b

The first sample is variation of zigzag back stitch. The second is the sample to show how the back stitch works on curves. This is the reason this stitch is used in  red work, black work, kantha work, cross stitch embroideries. There are countless possibilities to work this stitch.

SSS2016.2.backst-3a

SSS2016.2.backst-3a

The back side looked interesting for these two samples too.

SSS2016.2.backst-3b

SSS2016.2.backst-3b

Now starting with two rows of back stitch worked together.
After working two rows of back stitch in the first sample, the starting point of the second row in the second sample is the midpoint of the back stitch worked in the previous row. The second sample is called cable stitch, when there is no space between the rows and both rows are worked together as single linear stitch. In the third sample the back stitch rows are whipped together from left to right. The two rows of back stitch is laced in the fourth sample. Detached cretan stitch  is worked over the back stitch in the fifth sample. The sixth sample is the beaded back stitch.

SSS2016.2.backst-4

SSS2016.2.backst-4

The sampler is completed with these experiments, I have been itching to work back stitch samples from the time of TAST challenge.

SSS2016.2.Back stitch sampler

SSS2016.2.Back stitch sampler

The Randje per week chart was completed on Saturday. Lock stitch and double lock stitch are this week’s stitches on TAST challenge. I had worked the samples on two designs earlier. These were posted on FB TAST group page.
Marash Embroidery
Kutchwork Cream tunic with kalamkari patch
This tunic is with the tailor now. The embroidery on both sleeves are completed. A few diamond motifs were also worked. The rest of the embroidery will be completed after it is sewn.
Orange violet combo tunic
This tunic will be worked in two phases. A small border for the sleeves was started. Just a glimpse of the WIP.

WIPW104-oraviocombokutch-3

WIPW104-oraviocombokutch-3

Mirror work
I‘ll work on this tunic during this week. It might take long to complete all the mirrors. Some beads may be incorporated into this design.

WIPW104-beigemirt-6

WIPW104-beigemirt-6

Kantha work
Seeing that the mirror work and bead work will be  a long project, I started on the kantha work. This is plain black cloth for the embroidery on sleeves.

WIPW104-mablaikatkantha-2

WIPW104-mablaikatkantha-2

While working realized this could also be another long project, decided to keep it in the shelf for the time being.

WIPW104-marnlaikatkantha-3

WIPW104-marnlaikatkantha-3

Working on these projects, mind keeps thinking  of designs for new projects. Once or twice it started as drawing on paper also. Some webpages are inspiring and addictive and I get carried away by the vast variety of designs. if the time spent on these browsing can be limited, there might be more designs forthcoming. let’s see what this week brings in.

I am a day late in posting the progress on my projects. The two weeks in Chennai, India was filled with visits, shopping and dental appointments. Actually, there was no time for embroidery at all. I picked up some ideas for tunic designs though.
The randje per week sampler was left in Muscat. It was started on this Sunday. With three charts to catch up, the first chart was completed yesterday. I am presently working on this challenge.

WIPW102-RPW2016-W34

WIPW102-RPW2016-W34

The TAST challenge of this year is more of posting the old samplers on the Facebook page. This was totally neglected. This needs to be looked into.
Marash embroidery/ kutchwork embroidery
Kutchwork Cream tunic with kalamkari patch
I just worked a small part of the sleeve on this project before leaving for India.

WIPW102-crkalamkaripatkut-8

WIPW102-crkalamkaripatkut-8

The violet fabric of the orange violet combo tunic was taken to India, with the hope of working the small border and finding a proper leggings in violet. The leggings was bought but the fabric came back as it was! I think with this colour combination, the project will have more of Indian ethnic look.

WIPW102-oraviocombokutch-2

WIPW102-oraviocombokutch-2

Mirror work
After working the brown thread, the design is outlined with chain stitch in green thread. it is still in progress.

WIPW102-beigemirt-4

WIPW102-beigemirt-4

Kantha embroidery
The kantha embroidery design for the sleeves was traced and the fabrics were taken to Chennai, to be brought back in their packed condition.
The embroidery projects will be taken up after catching up on the randje per week challenge. These days the alphabets are getting bolder and bigger, involving a few days of work. Another chart will come on this Saturday. We are having holidays from tomorrow for Eid-Al-Adha- A time for pilgrimage to the holy shrine. I have to wait and see how much time can be allotted for embroidery.

Picked up a page filled with neck designs. My tailor loves these charts. A sample-

WIPW102-neck pat

WIPW102-neck pat

It is hard to believe this is the 100th post in this topic. It started with linking the posts of works in progress to Pintangle, where SharonB was posting every Wednesday, her works in progress. When Sharon wanted to make some changes on her blog, this category disappeared. There was no reason not to continue sharing my works in progress, these weekly reports are motivating. It has also become an habit.
The randje per week 2016 challenge had a the mirror image of the last week’s border, which was completed on Saturday.
Kutchwork Cream tunic with kalamkari patch
The first phase of working kutchwork embroidery on brown fabric was completed with the fifth motif. The cream tunic fabric along with this embroidered piece and the kalamkari fabric is with the tailor now for marking the front and sleeves. He has to mark keeping in mind the placement of these two- embroidered brown piece and kalamkari fabric.
Mirror work
The blue and white combo is getting full attention now. The mirrors are being stitched in different colours of thread.

WIPW100-blwhcombo-2

WIPW100-blwhcombo-2

After tracing the design on the beige tunic, the embroidery started with brown colour thread.

WIPW100-beigemirt-2

WIPW100-beigemirt-2

Marash embroidery
The kutchwork border work grew a little bit this week. this project may take a  back seat for a while.

WIPW100-whigremajekutch-3

WIPW100-whigremajekutch-3

Kantha embroidery
A design to work kantha embroidery on sleeves was chosen this week.

Linking this post to this blog

 

This is the last past of the series in hand embroidery on wearable. In this post we’ll consider some ideas of designing embroidery on tunics which are marked for necklines and sleeves. By this method it is possible to work any type of embroidery of our choice on wearable. Ready to wear tunics are made this way on large scale.
The fabrics are marked for necklines, sleeves, slits, shoulders, borders. The chosen embroidery designs are transferred on to the fabrics. These fabrics are secured on big rectangular embroidery frames. The embroidery is done by embroiderers trained for this. After the embroidery is completed, the fabrics are taken away from the frames and sewn by tailors.
But we can do it on a small scale. After choosing the embroidery design, we can ask the tailor [or if a person is good tailor, then help themselves] to mark the places on the fabric to work the embroidery. Using these markings as guidelines, we can transfer the pattern on the fabrics. After completing the embroidery, the fabrics can be sewn into tunics, blouses, shirts… as the case may be.
Here are few samples of embroidered tunics, which were marked, embroidered and sewn into tunics.
This mangalagiri cotton tunic with stripes was marked with neckline. This was in early days when I was trying this idea. Though it was marked, the pattern chosen for this kutchwork embroidery was set apart from the actual neck line. After embroidering on the pattern, I added some small kutchwork motifs below the neck.

eowet-09

eowet-09

The shirt fabric is linen and the idea was to work white work on this. The markings were made according to the pattern, which was to be worked on both sides in the front. Crochet edging was worked later on the sleeve. This embroidery was a tough project, linen fabric did not help.

eowet-10

eowet-10

This yellow tunic is cotton. The pattern was transferred on to the front, where a marking was made for the neck. White and yellow carbons were ruled out on this colour. Green carbon paper was used to transfer the pattern. The marking is still on the neck to show the difference between the neck line on pattern and the actual neckline!

eowet-11

eowet-11

This mangalagiri cotton tunic has kantha embroidery on it. The tailor had marked a simple round neck. The pattern transfer and embroidery were worked on front and sleeves based on that. Seeing the work, he changed the neckline to this beautiful one. Sometimes it is better to leave some small space around the neck, to facilitate these kind of surprises. There is also a possibility of the tailor cutting off a small part of embroidery during his course of work.

eowet-12

eowet-12

The pattern for this kutchwork embroidery was drawn with this neck design. It was transferred on to the marked fabric. This tunic sample is a proof of a good coordination of pattern neckline and the tunic neckline.

eowet-13

eowet-13

The embroidery design for this cotton mangalagiri tunic was picked from a salwar design magazine. The tailor had this magazine with him. When I wanted to do this project, he not only marked but also explained where each and every element should be placed. Based on the inspiration and the guidance, this pattern was drawn and embroidered. Around the neck I had to draw the elements by hand to get the same effect. Still it was worth it. This embroidery has surface satin stitch on it.

eowet-14

eowet-14

Each and every design on these samples was chosen for that particular tunic in mind and they were all worked with the help of the markings made by the tailor.
We can work any embroidery on the tunic fabric in this manner. Important thing to note is to check whether the fabric is suitable for that embroidery. It is not just designing the embroidery, the tunic style is also kept in mind. It is a very interesting work. Practice, perseverance, eye for colours, basic calculations and understanding of fabrics and embroidery are the tools.
Enjoy designing and embroidering on wearable.

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