chikan or shadow work


The progress was quite interesting this week. I think sometimes it is better to work on 2 or more small projects at a time. Three tunic projects were worked this week.
Green boat neck blouse
This project started off with chain stitch and buttonhole stitch lines. More yellow will be added during this project
WIPW235-greeboatt-2
The grey cotton blouse
The eight motifs were completed, today started with the neckline.
WIPW235-gycottchi-5
Navy neckline
After completing the chain stitch scallops, it is straight stitches and back stitch time on these cone shapes. I love this half white on navy silk /cotton.
WIPW235-crenat-5
I found an interesting past time with Youtube a few days ago. There is a channel– the videos are long, the embroidery is meditative, a good companion to work with. I am not working on any of the work shown there, it will  be good to work like that though.

 

It was a good week embroidery wise. Three tunics were worked and two designs were drawn for the next two tunics.
Grey orange tunic
The chain stitches worked in lighter orange was completed around the neck.
WIPW234-grortk-5
Two lines of chain stitches were worked on this teardrop motif.
WIPW234-grortk-6
The fifth motif on this grey tunic was completed yesterday.
WIPW234-gycottchi-4
Surprisingly, it is not tedious working on this blue neckline embroidery with chain stitches in half-white thread. I wonder why!
WIPW234-crenat-4
I have two synthetic chiffon material, which were supposed to be used as duppatta [scarf] for Indian tunics- one is black and another one is bright lemon yellow. The time has come to change them into wearable fabrics.
My friend fell in love with the yellow and wants to make a skirt. I have a saree, which has the blouse fabric attached to it in green. This might go well as blouse for the yellow skirt. A boat neck design with border patterns was drawn for this project.
WIPW234-greeboatt-1
For the black chiffon-I had seen a yoke design with borders and mirrors on the web some time ago. I have a black silk cotton fabric. A yoke made of kutchwork borders with mirror spaces was drawn two days ago.
Maybe I will know by next Wednesday, when these patterns will be traced on to the fabrics.

This past week was a good one progress wise. I could even manage to work on a stitch on SSS challenge. I am working on the last colour -beige on this plum cotton tunic, hoping to complete it by tomorrow.
WIPW231-pltch-7
The kutchwork elements on the grey striped tunic were worked with the same bright orange thread. This is definitely a change from chain stitches!
WIPW231-grortku-3
Grey cotton tunic with chikan embroidery
The full design with motif repeats was drawn on graph paper. My friend wanted one colour-cream to be used for the shadow work. The complete design was traced onto the reverse side of the grey cotton tunic with white craft pencil. I was very eager to see the outcome of this embroidery, so enthusiastically completed one motif.
WIPW231-gycottchi-2
This motivated me to work on a stitch on SSS challenge too.

 

The works of this week were around tunics. Though the chain stitches on plum cotton tunic are monotonous, still it is interesting to see the growth on these simple border patterns.
WIPW230-pltch-6
A kutchwork pattern with chain stitch and mirror elements was drawn and traced onto the grey striped tunic after the tailor marked the neck. He doesn’t design the neck, just the dimensions are marked and the front piece is cut by him. This gives me room to design the neck, yoke etc. by cutting the tunic to size, I don’t have to hold the whole fabric while doing embroidery. Started the work with kutchwork elements in bright[ it does not look so bright in the image though!] orange thread.
WIPW230-grortku-2
In April I had bought a few tunic fabrics on cotton, they are not handloom. A light weight cotton, easy to maintain and cool to wear on hot days, they were used as blouse fabrics for sarees. The navy tunic with Kashmiri work came from this set.
WIPW222-ncotka-8
My friend liked this grey [we call it elephant grey colour] and she wanted chikan work done on it. A motif design which will be repeated was drawn yesterday. The front of the tunic will be filled with this motif. The plan is to draw the whole design on graph paper and then trace it on to the fabric.
WIPW230-gycottchi-1

This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally,  the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
sanchik-yokepat
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
sanchik-sleevepat
The threads used were-
sanchik-threads
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
sanchik-1
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
sanchik-2
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
sanchik-3
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
sanchik-yokedet
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
sanchik-sleeve-det
The detail of the tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic-det
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.

This is the second tunic with lemon green and white combination. This summer these two colours were predominant in the tunic embroidery projects.
The fabric is handloom cotton and the embroidery was done with white cotton skein and some details worked in white perle cotton #8. There are two design elements. The first element is borders which were worked on the sleeves.

lemgrechi-sleeves

lemgrechi-sleeves

The same border design was worked around the neck.

lemgrechi-neck

lemgrechi-neck

These designs were drawn by hand with a foot ruler. The pattern was drawn on the wrong side of the cloth and embroidery was also worked on the wrong side. The fabric being see-through, was placed on the pattern and the floral design was traced with a pencil.
Started the embroidery in the centre.

lemgrechi-1

lemgrechi-1

The work in progress of the floral design. The shadow work/ chikan work/ closed herringbone was worked with four strands of cotton skein. I felt the thickness of the thread will make the embroidery more prominent.

lemgrechi-wip

lemgrechi-wip

After working the herringbone stitches in cotton skein, white perle cotton# 8 was used to work the straight stitches inside the petals. These straight stitches were worked on the right side of the fabric.

lemgrechi-2

lemgrechi-2

The last detail of French knots worked on the flowers.

lemgrechi-3

lemgrechi-3

After the completion of the embroidery the fabric was given to tailor for sewing. The tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

The detail.

lemon green chikan-det

lemon green chikan-det

It has been a while since I have done chikan work embroidery. It is easy to work, that’s a blessing. The embroidery needs to cover fairly a large area because of the subtlety of the work and the colours used. The pattern-

lemgrechi-pattern

lemgrechi-pattern

This tunic does not have lining. If required a slip can be used. I have one in this green. Sometimes it is hard to get lining fabric in cotton in this place. Since a polyester fabric will take away the comfort factor, it is better to go without a lining.

The randje per week challenge was completed on Saturday. This week’s TAST challenge has two stitches. The pintangle link is here. These were also worked in earlier TAST challenge.
Lemon green chikan tunic
Some more progress was made this week on this lemon green tunic. Four strands of anchor white skein are used to work the stitches. This lemon green cotton fabric is ideal to work on.

WIPW95-lemgrechik-5

WIPW95-lemgrechik-5

Kutchwork Cream tunic with kalamkari patch
This project is enticing me to work on it. Giving in to the temptation, just started on this motif with three strands of red thread.

WIPW95-crekalamkaripatkutch-3

WIPW95-crekalamkaripatkutch-3

Holidays for Ramadhan started yesterday. My friends are busy. Their projects are yet to be started. My tailor also needs a break during this period. The brown combo tunic was sewn very well. I had an idea of a strip of the block printed fabric to be used for sleeve borders. Which the tailor forgot. The plain edge gives an unfinished look.

WIPW92-yelcombo-3

WIPW92-yelcombo-3

The pink border tunic also needs to be embroidered. This week can be used for taking care of these two works.

WIPW90-pinbordert-1

WIPW90-pinbordert-1

Along with the works in progress, some ideas for embroidery are also passing through the mind. I really need to put those ideas on a book before they vanish into thin air. Not all tunics are suitable for Marash embroidery. A Kantha work and a mirror work are waiting for some apt designs.

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