bead work


The story of this yoke starts with this striped cotton fabric.
cremirt-salwar
Thinking all these colours can be used for embroidery on a cream base, a cream cotton fabric was chosen for the tunic. This cream mangalagiri handloom cotton fabric was given to the tailor for marking the front and sleeves.

And  a simple border design was embroidered on the sleeves.
cremirt-sleeves
The pattern for the same.
cremirt-pats
The embroidery for this mirror work started with green colour skein. The mirror outlines were worked n chain stitch, the curls were worked in stem stitch and the leaves in leaf stitch.
cremirt-1
The second stage was to work the orange colour skein. Chain stitches and buttonhole stitches were worked with this thread.
cremirt-2
Next in line was the antique violet colour skein. The triangles around the neck were worked in buttonhole stitches and the second mirror outlines were worked in chain stitch.
cremirt-3
The last outline around mirrors were worked in polyester gold colour thread.
cremirt-4
The diamond shaped mirrors were outlined with variegated polyester thread.
cremirt-5
The remaining chain stitch outlines were worked in yellow colour skein.
cremirt-6
The same yellow skein was used for working all the mirrors.
cremirt-7
Oval shaped gold bead was the last detail to be worked on this embroidery.
cremirt-8
The pattern for this yoke.
cremirt-paty
The completed tunic.
cream mirror work tunic
This was the story of this tunic in 2014. After two and a half years, the same yoke became a part of another tunic. Which will be narrated later.

Oyster stitch samples were worked during earlier TAST challenge. This week’s stitch on TAST 2017 challenge is beaded oyster stitch, the working of which is here on Sharon’s Pintangle.
All the samples are worked with four strands of cotton skein and glass beads. The first sample is the basic beaded oyster stitch. The second sample has three continuous beads after the oyster stitch. Two oyster stitches and two beads together, and this is repeated in the third row.
TAST2017.4.146.beadoysst-1
Zigzag beaded oyster stitch forms the first row in this part of the sampler. Instead of completing the oyster stitch with a bead, I worked the oyster stitch around a bead in the second sample. Isolated oyster stitches with three beads form the third row. Beaded oyster stitches are used to work flowers in the last set of samples.
TAST2017.4.146.beadoysst-2
This is the whole beaded oyster stitch sampler.
TAST2017.4.146.beaded oyster stitch sampler
I wanted to work the beads into the oyster stitch itself, but felt it would be hard to maintain the uniformity of the stitches and dropped the idea. Two more stitch samplers were also worked in India. Will post the details soon.

I am two days late in posting the works in progress. It is hard to remember the days in Chennai. After completing the Q stitch on SSS challenge, a project on silk blouse was done during this week. This blouse fabric had a wide gold border. My neighbour wanted some simple embroidery with stones and beads. Started the embroidery work with chain stitch in green silk thread.
WIPW128-peachb-1
Another chain stitch row with gold thread.
WIPW128-peachb-2
The saree is also the same peach silk with gold border. We could get dark red stone, the medium red stones did not match well with the richness of the silk fabric. Therefore chain stitches in red silk thread was worked on the semi circles created by green chain stitch row. The dark red stones were to be stitched here. I was hoping to subdue the colour of the stone to match with the fabric.
WIPW128-peachb-3
A small motif in gold was scattered here and there on the saree. I tried work a motif in gold thread and beads. After working the red stones and gold beads.
WIPW128-peachb-4
My friend who was sewing this blouse for her sister, wanted white stones on this project. I started with the white stones hoping it would go well with the beads, red stones and embroidery.
WIPW128-peachb-5
Embroidery completed on both the sleeves of this peach silk blouse.
WIPW128-peach blouse
Another blouse is also there which needs to be embroidered.
WIPW128-viopinb-1
Before starting the work on this blouse, I want to work whipped spoke stitch sampler for TAST challenge.

The Randje per week2016 chart of the week was completed on Saturday. This week’s TAST stitch is inverted feather stitch. Looking at the earlier worked sampler does not give me much satisfaction, the stitches don’t look good at all. But still the link was posted on the FB group page.
Marash embroidery
Pink kutchwork border on green
Now that the green thread has come into the project last week, I decided to move on to the yoke with the green.

WIPW108-whigremajekutch-7

WIPW108-whigremajekutch-7

Orange violet combo tunic
The orange fabric on this tunic has woven checks. It is to be left as it is. The embroidery pattern was traced on to the violet fabric.
Mirror work
All the square mirrors were worked on the beige tunic. The last part in this project is the beads. Brown metallic beads were attached on the sleeves.

WIPW108-beigemirt-10

WIPW108-beigemirt-10

At this point, there does not seem to be any embroidered tunic fabric ready to be given to the tailor, some fabric which may not require embroidery has to be chosen.

I had bought this ready to wear Patiala with the matching dupatta. A mangalagiri fabric of the base colour of the Patiala is given to the tailor to be sewn.

WIPW108-coppatialamant-1

WIPW108-coppatialamant-1

This is the latest tunic where blue is matched with yellow and orange. In Muscat, Oman, we get oxidized silver accessories. Most of them have beads on them. Different shades of corals are available and they are coordinated with turquoise beads. These are feast for eyes in the souq. Mind slowly started generating patterns for projects built on these inspirations.
This tunic started with the yellow fabric printed with orange motifs. A kutchwork design with allowance for mirrors was drawn along with two other embroidery designs. The choice was to work the embroidery on yellow fabric or orange fabric. With the orange fabric being available yellow was the first colour chosen. The next choice was green. The fly stitches on the leaf pattern.

yelorbluet-1

yelorbluet-1

Two kutchwork motifs were worked in orange thread which was lighter than the fabric colour.

yelorbluet-2

yelorbluet-2

Another motif pattern had an option of being worked in two threads, the central diamond are worked in maroon thread.

yelorbluet-3

yelorbluet-3

Starting with the idea of incorporating blue into this design, the corners of this square motif was worked in blue thread.

yelorbluet-4

yelorbluet-4

The yellow from the fabric was the next colour, the same motif pattern which was worked in lighter orange was now worked in yellow thread.

yelorbluet-5

yelorbluet-5

The fly stitches are outlined with buttonhole stitch in lighter green thread.

yelorbluet-6

yelorbluet-6

Open chain stitches are worked in white thread to outline the mirrors inside the orange and yellow kutchwork motifs. The piece itself was outlined with back stitch.

yelorbluet-7

yelorbluet-7

Mirrors were worked in the same fabric yellow in the space between the leaf patterns.

yelorbluet-8

yelorbluet-8

Square mirrors in blue thread are worked inside the square motifs.

yelorbluet-9

yelorbluet-9

These blue beads are made of wood and dyed in blue.

yelorbluet-10

yelorbluet-10

The blue handloom cotton fabric with stripes was perfect for this set.

yellow orange patialablue tunic

yellow orange patialablue tunic

Outlining the embroidered piece and the sleeves with the yellow orange fabric was a good choice. Though this idea was mine, I could see the satisfaction in my tailor’s eyes. He is quite stingy with praises.

yeloow orange Patiala blue unic-det

yeloow orange Patiala blue unic-det

The pattern for this embroidery-

yelorbluet-pattern

yelorbluet-pattern

This brown ikat fabric was there for quite some time. The weave gave an impression of yellow. This brought about an idea of working the embroidery in yellow.

brgryel-fabric

brgryel-fabric

Suddenly a green fabric popped into the picture and I started working the embroidery on it. The embroidery was mainly worked in herringbone stitch with a chain and buttonhole stitches thrown here and there.

brgryel-1

brgryel-1

Then slowly brown thread came into the picture.

brgryel-2

brgryel-2

Most of the herringbone shapes are now outlined in brown thread.

brgryel03

brgryel-3

After outlining the leaf shapes in green thread, variegated fine silk thread was used.

brgryel-4a

brgryel-4a

These details show clearly the places where variegated thread was used.

brgryel-4b

brgryel-4b

Continuing with gold metallic thread.

brgryel-5

brgryel-5

Gold beads and sequins were added in the last part of this embroidery.

brgryel-6

brgryel-6

The detail of the embroidery placed on the brown ikat fabric.

brgryel-7

brgryel-7

I realize that the green fabric is overpowering. A slight shift had to be done, so a yellow cotton fabric was bought. This combo was given to the tailor and it came back like this.

brown green yelowtunci set

brown green yelowtunci set

The yellow tunic.

brown green yellow tunic

brown green yellow tunic

Now for the detail. The embroidery and the sleeves have brown ikat fabric on them.

brown green yellow tunic detail

brown green yellow tunic detail

The embroidery pattern.

brgryel-pattern

brgryel-pattern

This project taught me to be cautious before bringing in another colour [this case, green]. And if the deed is already done, start looking for ways to improvise, this case plain yellow fabric.

I had designed three pieces for embroidery on tunics in February when working on a long project. This is the second piece. After completing the work on this blue silk cotton fabric, the piece suited a white chanderi silk cotton tunic fabric and I found the embroidery done around the mirror was worth sharing .
It started with the pattern-

mirblue-pat

mirblue-pat

Buttonhole stitch variations are worked over the pattern drawn.

mirblue-1

mirblue-1

The small oval shapes were intended for detached chain stitches. I felt oyster stitch was  a better choice. It so happened while working on this stitch, SharonB announced oyster stitch on this week’s TAST 2016 challenge. These oyster stitches were worked in four strands of cotton skein.

mirblue-2

mirblue-2

The triangular space around the mirror pattern was worked in herringbone filling.

mirblue-det1

mirblue-det1

The space between the two outlines was worked in herringbone and fly stitch combination in pink and green.

mirblue-det2

mirblue-det2

Zigzag back stitch was worked around the inner round. This was not part of the pattern.

mirblue-3

mirblue-3

Long tailed chain stitches in white thread were worked in between the buttonhole stitches. this detail was also not in the pattern.

mirblue-4

mirblue-4

The whole piece after working back stitches with white thread.

mirblue-det3

mirblue-det3

A medium size round mirror was attached to the centre with shisha stitch.

mirblue-5

mirblue-5

Small square mirrors were attached with shisha stitch between the two outlines.

mirblue-det4

mirblue-det4

After working the mirrors, small silver sequins with silver beads were stitched on to this piece. The mirror detail-

mirror work on blue detail

mirror work on blue detail

The piece with completed embroidery.

mirror work on blue

mirror work on blue

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