kasauti work


The tunic fabric is mangalagiri cotton with maroon and  yellow stripes.

yelmarmirt-fabric

yelmarmirt-fabric

I came across a geometric border on a tunic in a shop. This was a printed border. I wanted use this design idea for embroidery on tunic. This inspired pattern had both mirror and kutch work elements.

yelmarmirt-pattern

yelmarmirt-pattern

Starting with metallic thread and small kutch elements.

yelmarmirt-1

yelmarmirt-1

Chain stitch outline in green thread.

yelmarmirt-2

yelmarmirt-2

The same green thread is used for continuous kutchwork design.

yelmarmirt-3

yelmarmirt-3

Medium square mirrors were stitched on this embroidered border.

yelmarmirt-4

yelmarmirt-4

It was hard to take a straight picture of this tunic, because of the mirrors.

yellow maroon mirrorwork tunic

yellow maroon mirrorwork tunic

The detail of the sewn tunic with embroidery.

yelmarmirt-det

yelmarmirt-det

This being a geometric design, it also was an inspiration for this black work border. I have not used this pattern.

yelmarmirt- blackwork pattern

yelmarmirt- blackwork pattern

This week’s edges are quite interesting on this challenge. The free graph for these edges are here.

rpw2015-45

rpw2015-45

The interesting part starts with the 46th edge. This edge is worked in double running stitch or Holbein stitch. By working with this stitch, the edge looks the same on both right and wrong sides. The Indian kasuti embroidery is worked this way. Video demonstration of this technique is available on this link.

rpw2015-46

rpw2015-46

I was excited to start this on my own, missing the video. The method of working the ends neatly is shown there. So sad! My untidy version is here. But I have managed to work the cross stitch in double running stitch.

rpw2015-46 reverse

rpw2015-46 reverse

I have stopped worrying that the thread used on these edges is not bright. It feels okay now.

I am posting this border pattern which I had designed for sleeves of a blouse the details of which are here..

I don’t seem to find the original drawing. This is basic border which was repeated for the required length.

lagartera border pattern

lagartera border pattern

The continuous borders can be used for kasauti embroidery also.

I had this hand woven ikat fabric in navy blue colour with black stripes and small white lines on it. The fabric by itself  did not need any embroidery on it. while going through a book of traditional Indian designs, I came across some geometrical designs, which I thought might go well with this fabric. So I drew a yoke pattern based on some of these designs with my twist.
The pattern

piykbltunic-pattern

piykbltunic-pattern

This pattern was traced on to a dark pink mangalagiri cotton fabric with stripes .the whole embroidery was done in double running stitch and back stitch with two strands of white cotton skeins. This work can be categorized as kasauti embroidery.

piykbltunic-yoke

piykbltunic-yoke

The tailor used the same pink fabric as sleeve border. I like the neckline.

pink  yoke on blue tunic

pink yoke on blue tunic

The pattern can be used for phulkari embroidery by filling the shapes  and the same pattern can be worked on a larger scale too.

The kasuti yoke was completed after working  with light green thread.

brks-4

brks-4

It took six hours to work this yoke. it was completed in three days. The tailor had given me the centre piece to work this embroidery. He also attached a green lace to the sleeves. The tunic-

brks-t1

brks-t1

The yoke-

brks-t2

brks-t2

The pattern –

brks-pattern

brks-pattern

This tunic was inspired by chikan work tunics which are widely available in India. They come in pastel colours with chikan work done in the same colour of the fabric or more commonly in white. I wanted explore the effect of kasuti embroidery on a tunic. I am happy to see people interested in this work.
I wear this tunic with a printed[in green, white and brown] readymade Patiala salwar.

This yoke is embroidered with double running stitch . this pattern is made of three broders. The outer border is also worked with medium green, leaving space for light green.

brks-2

brks-2

Now working with light pink and golden yellow, the progress on the yoke-

brks-3

brks-3

This plain dark brown tunic was a soft cotton fabric. idael for hot climates. I wanted to do some embroidery on the tunic fabric itself. For this a pattern was drawn for yoke. this was based on kasauti embroidery from Karnataka, a state in India.

In Kasauti or kassoti embroidery,The geometrical patterns are worked with double running stitch. This way, the right and the wrong side look the same, ideal for sarees, dupattas, scarfs, stoles. Where the wrong side of the fabric is also visible while draping. They are also worked on even weave fabric s which are used as furnishings. To make this method possible, care is taken at the level of drawing the patterns .
This yoke pattern is one such kasauti pattern. Golden yellow,,two shades of pink and green were the colours used for this embroidery. I started with medium pink thread and moved on to medium green thread.

brks-1

brks-1

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