kasauti work


The tunic fabric is mangalagiri cotton with maroon and  yellow stripes.

yelmarmirt-fabric

yelmarmirt-fabric

I came across a geometric border on a tunic in a shop. This was a printed border. I wanted use this design idea for embroidery on tunic. This inspired pattern had both mirror and kutch work elements.

yelmarmirt-pattern

yelmarmirt-pattern

Starting with metallic thread and small kutch elements.

yelmarmirt-1

yelmarmirt-1

Chain stitch outline in green thread.

yelmarmirt-2

yelmarmirt-2

The same green thread is used for continuous kutchwork design.

yelmarmirt-3

yelmarmirt-3

Medium square mirrors were stitched on this embroidered border.

yelmarmirt-4

yelmarmirt-4

It was hard to take a straight picture of this tunic, because of the mirrors.

yellow maroon mirrorwork tunic

yellow maroon mirrorwork tunic

The detail of the sewn tunic with embroidery.

yelmarmirt-det

yelmarmirt-det

This being a geometric design, it also was an inspiration for this black work border. I have not used this pattern.

yelmarmirt- blackwork pattern

yelmarmirt- blackwork pattern

This week’s edges are quite interesting on this challenge. The free graph for these edges are here.

rpw2015-45

rpw2015-45

The interesting part starts with the 46th edge. This edge is worked in double running stitch or Holbein stitch. By working with this stitch, the edge looks the same on both right and wrong sides. The Indian kasuti embroidery is worked this way. Video demonstration of this technique is available on this link.

rpw2015-46

rpw2015-46

I was excited to start this on my own, missing the video. The method of working the ends neatly is shown there. So sad! My untidy version is here. But I have managed to work the cross stitch in double running stitch.

rpw2015-46 reverse

rpw2015-46 reverse

I have stopped worrying that the thread used on these edges is not bright. It feels okay now.

I am posting this border pattern which I had designed for sleeves of a blouse the details of which are here..

I don’t seem to find the original drawing. This is basic border which was repeated for the required length.

lagartera border pattern

lagartera border pattern

The continuous borders can be used for kasauti embroidery also.

I had this hand woven ikat fabric in navy blue colour with black stripes and small white lines on it. The fabric by itself  did not need any embroidery on it. while going through a book of traditional Indian designs, I came across some geometrical designs, which I thought might go well with this fabric. So I drew a yoke pattern based on some of these designs with my twist.
The pattern

piykbltunic-pattern

piykbltunic-pattern

This pattern was traced on to a dark pink mangalagiri cotton fabric with stripes .the whole embroidery was done in double running stitch and back stitch with two strands of white cotton skeins. This work can be categorized as kasauti embroidery.

piykbltunic-yoke

piykbltunic-yoke

The tailor used the same pink fabric as sleeve border. I like the neckline.

pink  yoke on blue tunic

pink yoke on blue tunic

The pattern can be used for phulkari embroidery by filling the shapes  and the same pattern can be worked on a larger scale too.

The kasuti yoke was completed after working  with light green thread.

brks-4

brks-4

It took six hours to work this yoke. it was completed in three days. The tailor had given me the centre piece to work this embroidery. He also attached a green lace to the sleeves. The tunic-

brks-t1

brks-t1

The yoke-

brks-t2

brks-t2

The pattern –

brks-pattern

brks-pattern

This tunic was inspired by chikan work tunics which are widely available in India. They come in pastel colours with chikan work done in the same colour of the fabric or more commonly in white. I wanted explore the effect of kasuti embroidery on a tunic. I am happy to see people interested in this work.
I wear this tunic with a printed[in green, white and brown] readymade Patiala salwar.

This yoke is embroidered with double running stitch . this pattern is made of three broders. The outer border is also worked with medium green, leaving space for light green.

brks-2

brks-2

Now working with light pink and golden yellow, the progress on the yoke-

brks-3

brks-3

This plain dark brown tunic was a soft cotton fabric. idael for hot climates. I wanted to do some embroidery on the tunic fabric itself. For this a pattern was drawn for yoke. this was based on kasauti embroidery from Karnataka, a state in India.

In Kasauti or kassoti embroidery,The geometrical patterns are worked with double running stitch. This way, the right and the wrong side look the same, ideal for sarees, dupattas, scarfs, stoles. Where the wrong side of the fabric is also visible while draping. They are also worked on even weave fabric s which are used as furnishings. To make this method possible, care is taken at the level of drawing the patterns .
This yoke pattern is one such kasauti pattern. Golden yellow,,two shades of pink and green were the colours used for this embroidery. I started with medium pink thread and moved on to medium green thread.

brks-1

brks-1

red kasooti on blouse

I have a cream Bengal cotton saree, woven with red border.
I found a red checked in mangalagiri cotton, for blouse.
For this set , the idea was to work kasooti embroidery border on cream cloth in red colour and attach it to the sleeves of the[ red] blouse, to match with the saree .
. Three borders were chosen and were drawn together on graph paper.
Being a light colour, the tracing was done with red carbon.
The threads were anchor cotton skeins[47, 20]
I traced the pattern on to the cream cloth, and had the blouse sewn, then started the embroidery.

 

On my earlier post, on kasouti embroidery, Nafisa wanted a information on how to draw kasouti pattern on fabric.

As I mentioned this particular pattern was taken from a pattern book.

It was not perfect, so I couldn’t use it as it is.With the basic pattern in mind I drew the pattern on graph , and made adjustments there to my satisfaction.

 Then the whole pattern was carbon copied on fabric[ the carbon colour varies according to the colour of the cloth]. the placement of the pattern on the cloth was also very important. measuring , calculating,marking, everything should be done before the tracing of the design.

The most important thing is  that,the original pattern should be as perfect as possible, just tracing from a book ,will not help here, cheap pattern books do not care for attention to detail. I use the books for general inspiration and work on customising the patterns.

 Nafisa,hope, this answered your enquiry.

 note-  the patterns are drawn on inch graph paper, and not on small centimetre graph paper. the squares on inch graph are  more condusive for  drawing patterns.

I found this kasouti pattern on local pattern book, and wanted to use on a tunic.
The picture taken is of the last piece of this tunic set.
I had a dullred striped mangalagiri with beige border.I used the pattern for neck and and front.It was a long project!
The embroidery was done in beige and cream.I completed the embroidery, and later found a plain grey duppata[scarf] to go with it I wonder why?  At that time, I was in the mode of accesserising all my tunics with scarves
I drew the same pattern on to the scarf, and started the embroidery.this was the time we shifted to Muscat.  I  left it behind .when I returned I wore the tunic without the
Scarf.
Two years later the scarf was still lying there, suddenly I felt like embroidering on the pattern, which I did for one motif
. In the mean time the tunic became a little tight for me, I decided to give it away. Meaning I don’t have the picture of the tunic.
Now the grey scarf is lying there, with one completed motif in that colour.combination,
The pattern-

kasuti pattern on grey

The completed  motif-

kasoti motif on grey

Waiting for some inspiration, to use this motif.