floral


This is the second tunic with lemon green and white combination. This summer these two colours were predominant in the tunic embroidery projects.
The fabric is handloom cotton and the embroidery was done with white cotton skein and some details worked in white perle cotton #8. There are two design elements. The first element is borders which were worked on the sleeves.

lemgrechi-sleeves

lemgrechi-sleeves

The same border design was worked around the neck.

lemgrechi-neck

lemgrechi-neck

These designs were drawn by hand with a foot ruler. The pattern was drawn on the wrong side of the cloth and embroidery was also worked on the wrong side. The fabric being see-through, was placed on the pattern and the floral design was traced with a pencil.
Started the embroidery in the centre.

lemgrechi-1

lemgrechi-1

The work in progress of the floral design. The shadow work/ chikan work/ closed herringbone was worked with four strands of cotton skein. I felt the thickness of the thread will make the embroidery more prominent.

lemgrechi-wip

lemgrechi-wip

After working the herringbone stitches in cotton skein, white perle cotton# 8 was used to work the straight stitches inside the petals. These straight stitches were worked on the right side of the fabric.

lemgrechi-2

lemgrechi-2

The last detail of French knots worked on the flowers.

lemgrechi-3

lemgrechi-3

After the completion of the embroidery the fabric was given to tailor for sewing. The tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

The detail.

lemon green chikan-det

lemon green chikan-det

It has been a while since I have done chikan work embroidery. It is easy to work, that’s a blessing. The embroidery needs to cover fairly a large area because of the subtlety of the work and the colours used. The pattern-

lemgrechi-pattern

lemgrechi-pattern

This tunic does not have lining. If required a slip can be used. I have one in this green. Sometimes it is hard to get lining fabric in cotton in this place. Since a polyester fabric will take away the comfort factor, it is better to go without a lining.

This brown ikat fabric was there for quite some time. The weave gave an impression of yellow. This brought about an idea of working the embroidery in yellow.

brgryel-fabric

brgryel-fabric

Suddenly a green fabric popped into the picture and I started working the embroidery on it. The embroidery was mainly worked in herringbone stitch with a chain and buttonhole stitches thrown here and there.

brgryel-1

brgryel-1

Then slowly brown thread came into the picture.

brgryel-2

brgryel-2

Most of the herringbone shapes are now outlined in brown thread.

brgryel03

brgryel-3

After outlining the leaf shapes in green thread, variegated fine silk thread was used.

brgryel-4a

brgryel-4a

These details show clearly the places where variegated thread was used.

brgryel-4b

brgryel-4b

Continuing with gold metallic thread.

brgryel-5

brgryel-5

Gold beads and sequins were added in the last part of this embroidery.

brgryel-6

brgryel-6

The detail of the embroidery placed on the brown ikat fabric.

brgryel-7

brgryel-7

I realize that the green fabric is overpowering. A slight shift had to be done, so a yellow cotton fabric was bought. This combo was given to the tailor and it came back like this.

brown green yelowtunci set

brown green yelowtunci set

The yellow tunic.

brown green yellow tunic

brown green yellow tunic

Now for the detail. The embroidery and the sleeves have brown ikat fabric on them.

brown green yellow tunic detail

brown green yellow tunic detail

The embroidery pattern.

brgryel-pattern

brgryel-pattern

This project taught me to be cautious before bringing in another colour [this case, green]. And if the deed is already done, start looking for ways to improvise, this case plain yellow fabric.

This type of tunic with simple embroidery is always in fashion. The tunic fabric is handloom cotton.

beimarstrit-fabric

beimarstrit-fabric

I had another handloom [mangalagiri] cotton fabric with zari border. The pattern was drawn on that.

beimarstrit-1

beimarstrit-1

The embroidery was worked with cotton skeins, metallic thread and stones were added as embellishments. Herringbone filling stitch was done in red thread.

beimarstrit-2

beimarstrit-2

The same stitch was used with the beige thread too.

beimarstrit-3

beimarstrit-3

The outline was done with gold metallic thread, worked like this it looks like Aari work. This I have to learn one day.

beimarstrit-4

beimarstrit-4

The last part of this piece was completed with stones.

beimarstrit-5

beimarstrit-5

The tailor did a good job of sewing this tunic, again I love the neck line. The extra zari borders were sewn on the sleeves.

beige maroon striped tunic

beige maroon striped tunic

The pattern for this embroidery.

beimarstrit-pattern

beimarstrit-pattern

The detail –

beige maroon striped tunic detail

beige maroon striped tunic detail

 This tunic is worn  with maroon jeggings. The fabric feels very cool in summer. I feel the zari border played a big part in this tunic project.

 

This tunic fabric is cotton with block printed motifs in grey and blue colours wit border.

whigreyblu-fabric

whigreyblu-fabric

The embroidery was worked with cotton skeins and metallic silver thread. First thread was grey. Herringbone stitch fillings and chain stitch outlines were done with this thread.

whigreyblu-1

whigreyblu-1

Three shades of same blue were used. first was the medium blue thread. The stitches were the same.

whigreyblu-2

whigreyblu-2

Again the fillings are done with herringbone stitches and the outlines in chain stitch.

whigreyblu-3

whigreyblu-3

The lightest blue is used for outline.

whigreyblu-4

whigreyblu-4

After working the embroidery with cotton skeins, the silver metallic thread was used to define the outlines and other smaller details.

whigreyblu-5

whigreyblu-5

The last thread on this project was white cotton skein.

whigreyblu-6

whigreyblu-6

This embroidered centre piece was sewn on to the tunic by the tailor, who did a great job on the neckline.

white grey blue tunic

white grey blue tunic

The closer look of the tunic.

whigreyblu-detail

whigreyblu-detail

The pattern of this centre piece, based on traditional Indian design.

whigreyblu-pattern

whigreyblu-pattern

This was a simple embroidery, I like working on traditional designs.

In this project the embroidery was worked on a ready to wear tunic. The tunic was bought at a shop-FabIndia- which specializes on Indian handloom ethnic wear. The tussar silk stole with metallic block print-

greentussar-duppata

greentussar-duppata

A tussar silk tunic to match this stole-

greetussar-1

greetussar-1

A traditional Indian pattern-

greetussar- pattern

greetussar- pattern

The threads were fine silk, cotton skeins and metallic gold. Started the embroidery with medium blue silk thread- chain stitch and herringbone.

greetussar-2

greetussar-2

Darker blue silk thread for inner row of chain stitch and double herringbone filling.

greetussar-3

greetussar-3

Green cotton skein for chain stitch on stem, leaf stitch.

greetussar-4

greetussar-4

White silk thread used for chain stitch.

greetussar-5

greetussar-5

Finally chain stitch embellishing was done with gold metallic thread.

greetussar-6

greetussar-6

Detail-

greetussar-7

greetussar-7

These Indian stoles[ dupattas] are quite long- 2.5 metres. They need to be worn over both shoulders, otherwise we’ll be sweeping the ground stylishly! This embroidery was worked in the centre just below the neck, where it can be seen. A small motif with all the colours on the duppata seemed ideal. This pattern works well for Aari work too.

Added later-

Queenie requested to see the embroidered tunic with dupatta.

The embroidered tunic with dupatta-

Greetussar-8

Greetussar-8

When the dupatta worn over both shoulders

greetussar-9

greetussar-9

I use these plastic loops for embroidery. Remove them when they are not in use.

embroidery loops

embroidery loops

I am still catching up on TAST stitches. Kiko’s flower stitch tutorial is here on Pintangle. Though this was part of earlier TAST challenge, it was not explored then. At that time I was terrified of bullion knots.
This stitch is combined with other stitches in this pattern sampler.
Kiko’s flower stitches are worked with- chain stitch, herringbone stitch, buttonhole stitch and feather stitch.

38.132.kiko'sst-1

38.132.kiko’sst-1

The other stitches in this second part of the sampler are- woven chain stitches, triple chain stitches, french knots and coral stitch.

38.132.kiko'sst-2

38.132.kiko’sst-2

This part of the sampler is decorative florals made of kiko’s flower stitches and other stitches. the details of other stitches.

38.132.kiko'sst-3

38.132.kiko’sst-3

These florals started with cretan stitch ring, french knots centre and berry stitch petals.

38.132.kiko's st-4

38.132.kiko’s st-4

First sample has square herringbone and pistil stitches, second sample is made of basque stitch ring and the Algerian eye stitch forms the centre for the third sample.

38.132.kiko's st-5

38.132.kiko’s st-5

The first sample has arrowhead ring, slipped detached chain stitch ring is the base for the second sample and whipped square and a variation of kikos flower stitch [the buttonhole stitches after the first buttonhole stitch are shorter , making the bullion stitches angled] form the third motif.

38.132.kiko'sst-6

38.132.kiko’sst-6

After working two more samples  with buttonhole stitch, fern stitch and fly stitches ,the sampler was completed.

38.132.kiko's flower stitch sampler

38.132.kiko’s flower stitch sampler

This cannot be called a simple stitch, but it was easier than I expected. One tip- it is best to work the other stitches first [especially the chain stitches] because the thread gets entangled over this textured stitch.

This is the last bag in the set of embroidered linen bag. The design and embroidery has the influence of crewel embroidery. I am fascinated by the beauty of this embroidery. I love the designs, colours, stitches of this work. I have just started the journey in this enchanting world of crewel embroidery. I have to learn a lot to move further. First and foremost, I did not have crewel wool to do this work!
The pattern, it is askew.

11.embbag-pattern

11.embbag-pattern

After working Satin, buttonhole, chain and stem stitches in stranded cotton. The colours for this project were inspired by antique cross stitch samplers.

11.embbag-2

11.embbag-2

Defining with outline stitch-

11.embroidered bag

11.embroidered bag

Detail of the flower

11.embbag-detail

11.embbag-detail

This bag is a favourite and was not given away. My husband also liked this bag. Next ones were monograms on satin bag.

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