design


This tunic was worked in 2013. The fabric is mangalagiri cotton. We call this colour as sandalwood colour. This fabric was fairly thin for it to be used for chikan work embroidery.
Though generally,  the chikan work embroidery being shadow work, the closed herringbone stitches are worked on the wrong side of the fabric. There are many exceptions to this.
I wanted to work closed herringbone stitches on both sides of the fabric.
The tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic
The tailor had marked the sleeves and the front of the tunic. The yoke pattern
sanchik-yokepat
The yoke and the sleeve embroidery patterns were traced on to the fabric.
sanchik-sleevepat
The threads used were-
sanchik-threads
Starting with darkest colour, the closed herringbone stitches were worked.
sanchik-1
The next colour was also worked in the same manner.
sanchik-2
The third colour which was very light compared to the other two was worked on the right side of the fabric. This time it was fish bone stitch.
sanchik-3
Cream colour thread was used for outlines and french knots.
sanchik-yokedet
The sleeves were worked in the same manner.
sanchik-sleeve-det
The detail of the tunic.
sandal-chikan-tunic-det
Early 2013, my computer had some problem, and I lost most of the images of the details of the embroidery projects worked after june 2012. This kept me discouraged for quite some time. So there is a backlog of project details from 2013. I am hoping to post these whenever time permits.

This is the second tunic with lemon green and white combination. This summer these two colours were predominant in the tunic embroidery projects.
The fabric is handloom cotton and the embroidery was done with white cotton skein and some details worked in white perle cotton #8. There are two design elements. The first element is borders which were worked on the sleeves.

lemgrechi-sleeves

lemgrechi-sleeves

The same border design was worked around the neck.

lemgrechi-neck

lemgrechi-neck

These designs were drawn by hand with a foot ruler. The pattern was drawn on the wrong side of the cloth and embroidery was also worked on the wrong side. The fabric being see-through, was placed on the pattern and the floral design was traced with a pencil.
Started the embroidery in the centre.

lemgrechi-1

lemgrechi-1

The work in progress of the floral design. The shadow work/ chikan work/ closed herringbone was worked with four strands of cotton skein. I felt the thickness of the thread will make the embroidery more prominent.

lemgrechi-wip

lemgrechi-wip

After working the herringbone stitches in cotton skein, white perle cotton# 8 was used to work the straight stitches inside the petals. These straight stitches were worked on the right side of the fabric.

lemgrechi-2

lemgrechi-2

The last detail of French knots worked on the flowers.

lemgrechi-3

lemgrechi-3

After the completion of the embroidery the fabric was given to tailor for sewing. The tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

lemon green chikan tunic

The detail.

lemon green chikan-det

lemon green chikan-det

It has been a while since I have done chikan work embroidery. It is easy to work, that’s a blessing. The embroidery needs to cover fairly a large area because of the subtlety of the work and the colours used. The pattern-

lemgrechi-pattern

lemgrechi-pattern

This tunic does not have lining. If required a slip can be used. I have one in this green. Sometimes it is hard to get lining fabric in cotton in this place. Since a polyester fabric will take away the comfort factor, it is better to go without a lining.

This is the latest tunic where blue is matched with yellow and orange. In Muscat, Oman, we get oxidized silver accessories. Most of them have beads on them. Different shades of corals are available and they are coordinated with turquoise beads. These are feast for eyes in the souq. Mind slowly started generating patterns for projects built on these inspirations.
This tunic started with the yellow fabric printed with orange motifs. A kutchwork design with allowance for mirrors was drawn along with two other embroidery designs. The choice was to work the embroidery on yellow fabric or orange fabric. With the orange fabric being available yellow was the first colour chosen. The next choice was green. The fly stitches on the leaf pattern.

yelorbluet-1

yelorbluet-1

Two kutchwork motifs were worked in orange thread which was lighter than the fabric colour.

yelorbluet-2

yelorbluet-2

Another motif pattern had an option of being worked in two threads, the central diamond are worked in maroon thread.

yelorbluet-3

yelorbluet-3

Starting with the idea of incorporating blue into this design, the corners of this square motif was worked in blue thread.

yelorbluet-4

yelorbluet-4

The yellow from the fabric was the next colour, the same motif pattern which was worked in lighter orange was now worked in yellow thread.

yelorbluet-5

yelorbluet-5

The fly stitches are outlined with buttonhole stitch in lighter green thread.

yelorbluet-6

yelorbluet-6

Open chain stitches are worked in white thread to outline the mirrors inside the orange and yellow kutchwork motifs. The piece itself was outlined with back stitch.

yelorbluet-7

yelorbluet-7

Mirrors were worked in the same fabric yellow in the space between the leaf patterns.

yelorbluet-8

yelorbluet-8

Square mirrors in blue thread are worked inside the square motifs.

yelorbluet-9

yelorbluet-9

These blue beads are made of wood and dyed in blue.

yelorbluet-10

yelorbluet-10

The blue handloom cotton fabric with stripes was perfect for this set.

yellow orange patialablue tunic

yellow orange patialablue tunic

Outlining the embroidered piece and the sleeves with the yellow orange fabric was a good choice. Though this idea was mine, I could see the satisfaction in my tailor’s eyes. He is quite stingy with praises.

yeloow orange Patiala blue unic-det

yeloow orange Patiala blue unic-det

The pattern for this embroidery-

yelorbluet-pattern

yelorbluet-pattern

This brown ikat fabric was there for quite some time. The weave gave an impression of yellow. This brought about an idea of working the embroidery in yellow.

brgryel-fabric

brgryel-fabric

Suddenly a green fabric popped into the picture and I started working the embroidery on it. The embroidery was mainly worked in herringbone stitch with a chain and buttonhole stitches thrown here and there.

brgryel-1

brgryel-1

Then slowly brown thread came into the picture.

brgryel-2

brgryel-2

Most of the herringbone shapes are now outlined in brown thread.

brgryel03

brgryel-3

After outlining the leaf shapes in green thread, variegated fine silk thread was used.

brgryel-4a

brgryel-4a

These details show clearly the places where variegated thread was used.

brgryel-4b

brgryel-4b

Continuing with gold metallic thread.

brgryel-5

brgryel-5

Gold beads and sequins were added in the last part of this embroidery.

brgryel-6

brgryel-6

The detail of the embroidery placed on the brown ikat fabric.

brgryel-7

brgryel-7

I realize that the green fabric is overpowering. A slight shift had to be done, so a yellow cotton fabric was bought. This combo was given to the tailor and it came back like this.

brown green yelowtunci set

brown green yelowtunci set

The yellow tunic.

brown green yellow tunic

brown green yellow tunic

Now for the detail. The embroidery and the sleeves have brown ikat fabric on them.

brown green yellow tunic detail

brown green yellow tunic detail

The embroidery pattern.

brgryel-pattern

brgryel-pattern

This project taught me to be cautious before bringing in another colour [this case, green]. And if the deed is already done, start looking for ways to improvise, this case plain yellow fabric.

I had designed three pieces for embroidery on tunics in February when working on a long project. This is the second piece. After completing the work on this blue silk cotton fabric, the piece suited a white chanderi silk cotton tunic fabric and I found the embroidery done around the mirror was worth sharing .
It started with the pattern-

mirblue-pat

mirblue-pat

Buttonhole stitch variations are worked over the pattern drawn.

mirblue-1

mirblue-1

The small oval shapes were intended for detached chain stitches. I felt oyster stitch was  a better choice. It so happened while working on this stitch, SharonB announced oyster stitch on this week’s TAST 2016 challenge. These oyster stitches were worked in four strands of cotton skein.

mirblue-2

mirblue-2

The triangular space around the mirror pattern was worked in herringbone filling.

mirblue-det1

mirblue-det1

The space between the two outlines was worked in herringbone and fly stitch combination in pink and green.

mirblue-det2

mirblue-det2

Zigzag back stitch was worked around the inner round. This was not part of the pattern.

mirblue-3

mirblue-3

Long tailed chain stitches in white thread were worked in between the buttonhole stitches. this detail was also not in the pattern.

mirblue-4

mirblue-4

The whole piece after working back stitches with white thread.

mirblue-det3

mirblue-det3

A medium size round mirror was attached to the centre with shisha stitch.

mirblue-5

mirblue-5

Small square mirrors were attached with shisha stitch between the two outlines.

mirblue-det4

mirblue-det4

After working the mirrors, small silver sequins with silver beads were stitched on to this piece. The mirror detail-

mirror work on blue detail

mirror work on blue detail

The piece with completed embroidery.

mirror work on blue

mirror work on blue

Kutch work embroidery fascinates me. Sometimes it is a motif, or a woven design, or a border. The differences in working each piece is quite absorbing. This is the reason, every now and then, a kutchwork project keeps showing on my posts. This time, an idea of a small kutchwork design worked in different colours came to mind.
This design can be worked as woven kutch work too.
The pattern, as a usual practice the mirrors are also incorporated in this pattern.

blmultiy-pat

blmultiy-pat

The design was drawn on a blue fabric. The embroidery started with choosing these threads. Few more threads were added while working. The kutchwork was worked in three strands of stranded cotton

blmultiy-threads

blmultiy-threads

After working a corner design, started with the repeating design.

blmultiy-1

blmultiy-1

The working was faster than I expected. The thread consumption  for each piece was also very less.

blmultiy-2

blmultiy-2

This particular kutchwork motif can be also be weaved, instead of interlacing. The interlacing leaves space in between the interlaced squares.

blmultiy-3

blmultiy-3

The yellow and orange threads were alternated with a touch of pink, green and blue in between them. The colourful kutchwork embroidery.

blmultiy-4

blmultiy-4

The outline in chain stitch with blue thread.

blmultiy-5

blmultiy-5

The chain stitches in white are worked after this.

blmultiy-6

blmultiy-6

The small square mirrors worked with blue thread.

blmultiy-7

blmultiy-7

Three yoke patterns were engineered one after another a while ago. This is the first piece. After completing this embroidery, the tunic for which this was intended, a blue cotton fabric, was not appealing enough. So yesterday, another tunic fabric was picked for this piece.

blue multi col yoke white tunic

blue multi col yoke white tunic

This is ready to go to the tailor.

After working the last few samples the fancy bobbin edging sampler was completed.

2.31.142.fancy bobbin edging sampler

2.31.142.fancy bobbin edging sampler

This sample was worked with basic buttonhole stitch rows.

2.31.142.faboed-11a

2.31.142.faboed-11a

It was enhanced with fancy bobbin edging.

2.31.142.faboed-11b

2.31.142.faboed-11b

This sample is filled with freely worked fancy bobbin edging stitches.

2.31.142.faboed-12

2.31.142.faboed-12

A variation of buttonhole stitches with fancy bobbin edging are worked on this sample.

2.31.142.faboed-13

2.31.142.faboed-13

Bugle beads are used in this sample.

2.31.142.faboed-14

2.31.142.faboed-14

In this sample after working buttonhole variations, the green stone is embellished with one row of  detached fancy bobbin edging worked over back stitch. This embellishing the stone idea was seen in Mary’s needle n thread site in one of her projects. I used a stone with holes which can be attached to the fabric before working the stitch.

2.31.142.faboed-15

2.31.142.faboed-15

Sometimes it was interesting and stimulating, but at other times it was also demanding and draining. I used #7 crewel needle and chenille needle. The threads were taken from the used pile. With a very small stash of perle cotton or other kind of threads, I mainly use stranded cotton. On the whole it was an interesting project to work.

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