bead work


Challenges
On Sunday stitch school challenge last week’s heavy chain stitch was worked on folk design in red thread. This week’s stitch is interlaced running stitch. Expecting to start the sampler today.
TAST challenge continues from today. This week’s stitch is magic chain or checkered chain. The link to the earlier worked sampler was posted on FB group page.
No progress at all on RPW 2016 challenge. Another challenge for 2017 has started on their blog last week.
Never ending sampler SAL is still in stage of  browsing the other people’s work.
Zardosi
Started with green threads on this piece. Some more progress has been made on the curves with a lighter green thread on the curves. The picture will be taken after completing this treatment. Content with the progress on this project this week. It was slightly boring to work the chain stitches. Now working on stem stitch.
wipw120-cresilkbanarasizardosi-4
If a change is required, a different project has to be worked, which will take time from this project.

This is a stitch which I have been wanting to explore on a sampler. The working of the stitch, the tips to work are provided by Queenie, who is doing this Sunday stitch school, on her blog.
This is a versatile stitch. This stitch is used in so many ways over the years on my various embroidery projects. This was first stitch to be taught on our needle class in school to sew two pieces of cloth.
Now the details of the sampler-
The samples are worked in even weave cloth. It is easier to work this stitch on this cloth. The first is the basic back stitch, the second sample is back stitches worked with space between them. Looks like running stitch, but because of the way thread moves below the surface, it is more secure. The third sample are long and short back stitches worked alternatively.

SSS2016.2.backst-1

SSS2016.2.backst-1

This sample is zigzag back stitch. This version was used many times on my embroidery projects.

SSS2016.2.backst-2a

SSS2016.2.backst-2a

The zigzag back stitch looks like this on the back, this makes another linear stitch, may not be as secure as two rows of back stitch, but will save some thread!

SSS2016.2.backst-2b

SSS2016.2.backst-2b

The first sample is variation of zigzag back stitch. The second is the sample to show how the back stitch works on curves. This is the reason this stitch is used in  red work, black work, kantha work, cross stitch embroideries. There are countless possibilities to work this stitch.

SSS2016.2.backst-3a

SSS2016.2.backst-3a

The back side looked interesting for these two samples too.

SSS2016.2.backst-3b

SSS2016.2.backst-3b

Now starting with two rows of back stitch worked together.
After working two rows of back stitch in the first sample, the starting point of the second row in the second sample is the midpoint of the back stitch worked in the previous row. The second sample is called cable stitch, when there is no space between the rows and both rows are worked together as single linear stitch. In the third sample the back stitch rows are whipped together from left to right. The two rows of back stitch is laced in the fourth sample. Detached cretan stitch  is worked over the back stitch in the fifth sample. The sixth sample is the beaded back stitch.

SSS2016.2.backst-4

SSS2016.2.backst-4

The sampler is completed with these experiments, I have been itching to work back stitch samples from the time of TAST challenge.

SSS2016.2.Back stitch sampler

SSS2016.2.Back stitch sampler

The Randje per week2016 chart of the week was completed on Saturday. This week’s TAST stitch is inverted feather stitch. Looking at the earlier worked sampler does not give me much satisfaction, the stitches don’t look good at all. But still the link was posted on the FB group page.
Marash embroidery
Pink kutchwork border on green
Now that the green thread has come into the project last week, I decided to move on to the yoke with the green.

WIPW108-whigremajekutch-7

WIPW108-whigremajekutch-7

Orange violet combo tunic
The orange fabric on this tunic has woven checks. It is to be left as it is. The embroidery pattern was traced on to the violet fabric.
Mirror work
All the square mirrors were worked on the beige tunic. The last part in this project is the beads. Brown metallic beads were attached on the sleeves.

WIPW108-beigemirt-10

WIPW108-beigemirt-10

At this point, there does not seem to be any embroidered tunic fabric ready to be given to the tailor, some fabric which may not require embroidery has to be chosen.

I had bought this ready to wear Patiala with the matching dupatta. A mangalagiri fabric of the base colour of the Patiala is given to the tailor to be sewn.

WIPW108-coppatialamant-1

WIPW108-coppatialamant-1

This chanderi fabric either in cotton or silk is available in Chennai, as running materials or sarees or dupattas or stoles. The patterns and colours are pleasing to the eyes. the cream printed fabric is chanderi silk.

crblchanderi-fabric

crblchanderi-fabric

The embroidery design was a small border to be worked in chain stitch. I am used to working with mirrors. We get numerous borders worked with mirror like discs which are light weight and can be attached to the fabric with silk threads. This design was inspired by a design on an antique pattern book.

crblchanderi-pattern

crblchanderi-pattern

Started the project with chain stitch in metallic gold thread.

cblchanderi-1

cblchanderi-1

Two chain stitch rows and the small triangular shape fillings in herringbone stitches were worked with red fine silk thread.

crblchanderi-2

crblchanderi-2

Another chain stitch outline and leaf stitches were worked with cream colour anchor skein.

crblchanderi-3

crblchanderi-3

Generally these discs are held with glue and the securing stitches are worked around the edge. Instead of using the glue the disc was held tightly to work the securing stitch in red fine silk thread. It did not pose a problem in this case.

crblchanderi-4

crblchanderi-4

Some gold beads were then attached to this embroidered piece.

crblchanderi-5

crblchanderi-5

The tunic

cream black chanderi silk tunic

cream black chanderi silk tunic

The tailor did a neat job. The detail-

crblchanderi-detail

crblchanderi-detail

A cream cotton fabric was used for lining this tunic.

My Knowledge about this Kota fabric is minimal. It comes in silk and cotton. I have worn and seen sarees made of this fabric. it is transparent and needs to be starched and ironed. This tunic fabric is block printed white cotton Kota. The green striped fabric is chosen for the embroidery.

whgrekota-fabric

whgrekota-fabric

The bright sun is an inspiration to wear white fabrics. The fabric colour was so pleasing and cool, I did not want the embroidery to overpower it.
Four big size square mirrors outlined in chain stitch with silver metallic thread and embellished with silver beads completed the embroidery.

whgrekota-emb

whgrekota-emb

The pattern-

whgrekota-pattern

whgrekota-pattern

The same green striped fabric used for the embroidery was used for outlining the neckline and sleeve borders.

white green kota tunic

white green kota tunic

The detail of the neck and embroidery. it is hard to take pictures of big mirrors!

whgrekota-detail

whgrekota-detail

 

RPW2016
The weekly chart of part of alphabets was worked on Saturday.
TAST 2016
This week’s stitches eastern and beaded eastern stitches were worked on the earlier TAST challenge. The link to this blog was posted on facebook group.
Saree falls
Our sarees are 5.5 metres long. The side which meets the ground will endure lots of wear and tear. To minimize the damage, we attach a 5 inch strip with over 2.5 metres length along that edge. These are called saree falls, easily available in many colours in India.

WIPW87-Sfalls-1

WIPW87-Sfalls-1

These falls are attached to the saree with running stitch. This repetitive work is quite relaxing and meditative and I love doing it. These two sarees were safeguarded during this week.

WIPW87-sfalls-2

WIPW87-sfalls-2

Cream and black chanderi tunic
Chain stitch and herringbone stitches are worked in red fine silk thread.

WIPW87-crblchanderi-3

WIPW87-crblchanderi-3

Yellow red khadi tunic
I started with feather stitch creepers on this tunic. This is freely drawn design.

WIPW87-yelredkhadi-3

WIPW87-yelredkhadi-3

An embroidered piece was lying in a bag, because the original combination was not attractive anymore. A yellow handloom cotton fabric was chosen for this piece. The finished tunic.

brown green yelowtunci set

brown green yelowtunci set

This brown ikat fabric was there for quite some time. The weave gave an impression of yellow. This brought about an idea of working the embroidery in yellow.

brgryel-fabric

brgryel-fabric

Suddenly a green fabric popped into the picture and I started working the embroidery on it. The embroidery was mainly worked in herringbone stitch with a chain and buttonhole stitches thrown here and there.

brgryel-1

brgryel-1

Then slowly brown thread came into the picture.

brgryel-2

brgryel-2

Most of the herringbone shapes are now outlined in brown thread.

brgryel03

brgryel-3

After outlining the leaf shapes in green thread, variegated fine silk thread was used.

brgryel-4a

brgryel-4a

These details show clearly the places where variegated thread was used.

brgryel-4b

brgryel-4b

Continuing with gold metallic thread.

brgryel-5

brgryel-5

Gold beads and sequins were added in the last part of this embroidery.

brgryel-6

brgryel-6

The detail of the embroidery placed on the brown ikat fabric.

brgryel-7

brgryel-7

I realize that the green fabric is overpowering. A slight shift had to be done, so a yellow cotton fabric was bought. This combo was given to the tailor and it came back like this.

brown green yelowtunci set

brown green yelowtunci set

The yellow tunic.

brown green yellow tunic

brown green yellow tunic

Now for the detail. The embroidery and the sleeves have brown ikat fabric on them.

brown green yellow tunic detail

brown green yellow tunic detail

The embroidery pattern.

brgryel-pattern

brgryel-pattern

This project taught me to be cautious before bringing in another colour [this case, green]. And if the deed is already done, start looking for ways to improvise, this case plain yellow fabric.

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