2017


This past week was quite busy. I am yet to get back to the stitch challenge routine. Generally working the stitch sampler starts on Friday. One weekend of Dubai trip, meant there was no time to work the new stitch during that week. So this week two stitches needed to be tackled on SSS challenge.
Yesterday, I tried the Madame Totsuka’s loop stitch. It was not as difficult as it looked. It is just hard to get a neat look. A small sampler can be worked.
The Holbein stitch is the next stitch. After looking at the embroidery on internet for so many years, an idea to learn, practice, work, getting familiar with types of embroideries has been taking root on my mind. It is a long process. Procrastinating, finding excuses that there are so many UFO’s, not having enough time, involves lot of planning and hard work – all these facts will be always be there. It has to start somewhere. So seeing this Holbein stitch on SSS challenge, I decided to start on Kasuti embroidery sampler. This embroidery from Karnataka, India predominantly uses Holbein stitch or double running stitch. I bought three books on this embroidery two years ago. Planning to start working the kasuti border patterns available on the second book.
WIPW143-kasuti-book2borders
The  week’s TAST challenge stitches were worked on previous challenges.

Projects
Violet matka silk tunic
The leaves worked on pink fabric for violet matka silk tunic are also embellished with zardosi beads. Detached chain stitch with the green zardosi in the middle is the detail I am working now.
WIPW143-msilkzardosi-7
Green blouse
The embroidery is worked on black fabric for this blouse. Stem stitches and detached chain stitches are worked in cotton skein, the same colour as the green fabric.
WIPW143-greenbl-2
This is the progress made during the week.

We went to Dubai during the weekend. Maybe we felt the oppressing heat here is not enough, driving through the desert would be more exciting. It was a change from routine. After Wednesday stitching was not done, and I  started working from Monday. So progress was not much on projects. Stitch challenges are on hold.
The zardosi work on pink fabric has to be resumed. The tracing is continuing on cream fabric for the kutchwork border project. It seems like a lengthy project. Better to work the stitch challenges and some small projects while working on it. I have an old readymade blouse in cream, kept because the dress pattern is good, which can be used  for another blouse. A green mangalagiri fabric with border [which will be removed] may be perfect for this.
WIPW142-greenbl-1
The embroidery can be worked in green thread similar to this fabric on black cloth. A floral design for the yoke was drawn yesterday.

Last week’s stitch half bullioned chain stitch on SSS challenge was attempted, struggled and completed on Saturday. This week’s stitch looks a bit difficult, have to try after this weekend.
This week’s stitch on TAST challenge has closed herringbone stitch, which was worked on earlier challenge. This stitch was worked on allover continuous pattern, which did not require any variations. Posting on FB group page may not be necessary.
Project details
Cream linen tunic in kutchwork

The designing is nearing completion. Then begins the process on tracing. The pattern has three parts. Neck, and two borders. These have to be coordinated while tracing the pattern on the cream fabric. This fabric is a light weight soft cotton, easier for this work. The kutchwork design is drawn on 5 mm graph, so the embroidery may not be too thick worked with two strands of thread.
The simple embroidery on bright green tunic was completed. The tiny pleats are used as outlines and two borders were worked – back stitch in dark green and double cross stitch in light green threads.
WIPW141-pargreepinktmir-2
Round mirrors were worked on the neck with pink thread. It feels good to work simple embroidery and complete the project in two days work. The green cotton fabric is not very soft, still looks bright. Have to see the effect after washing.
WIPW141-pargreepinktmir-3Cream
This week there was not much time to work the zardosi embroidery. I have started filling with the violet zardosi beads on the flowers.

This is a very new stitch on SSS stitch challenge. The working is explained on Queenie’s blog. I have a good respect for bullion stitch by not attempting it often. Sometimes these stitch challenges don’t help. This is one such time.
Starting the sampler, each and every twist on bullion had a mind of its own. During the earlier days of learning bullion stitches [most times the trials were abandoned] it seemed to prove that bullions are not my friends. After attempting and working some bullion stitches on TAST, a long distance relationship has emerged. Meaning- Looking at bullion stitches does not scare me. Their beauty is well appreciated.
A wretched attempt this time around-
SSS.28.habulchst
Another row was tried again, during half way some of the half bullioned chain stitches looked passable. May be it is possible to work this stitch. The second row is a version long and short version of the stitch. The alternate stitches are chain stitches in the third row. The zigzag version is worked in the fourth row.
SSS.28.habulchst-1
The plain part of this stitch is whipped in the first sample. I tried working the bullions alternatively on bottom and top in the second sample. Some detached chains, long tailed detached chains, twisted chains and Q stitches are worked with half bullions in the last sample.
SSS.28.habulchst-2
The sampler is done!SSS.28.half bullioned chain stitchsampler

Stitch challenges
By starting the SSS challenge stitch early, I had time work more stitch combinations on the sampler.
The TAST stitch was worked on earlier challenge, just posting the link on FB group was the only thing to do.
Projects
Last year I had seen a half white tunic on pinterest. The is tunic had geometric borders around the neck
and front in black. It was hard to determine whether the design was printed or embroidered. An idea to
convert the borders into kutchwork designs was on mind. Found that, it is easier to convert the borders
to kutchwork design, but drawing them on paper is taking a long time. After the designing part is
completed, this pattern has to be traced on cream colour cotton fabric and after that the embroidery
work will begin. Seems like a long and tedious project, still having waited this long to start on the idea, it
is better not to postpone it any further.
A block printed fabric was bought some years ago. When it was matched with a dark green fabric and small patch of mirror work, my previous tailor made this block printed fabric into a salwar[ Indian pants],  and the dark green fabric into a tunic. The dark green fabric was thick , synthetic  fabric and was not comfortable to wear and it was disregarded after some time.
WIPW140-green mir
This printed fabric underwent another change of trying match with a brown/pink fabric with medium size embroidery. At that time it seemed a like a good idea to work the embroidery in light colours, but the fabric which had grains on it was not showing the embroidery properly. I don’t seem to have the picture of the tunic. This was also disregarded at a later date and the printed salwar was hiding in the closet. This time on my Chennai trip, I decided to play safe by buying a plain green fabric. This was given to the tailor last week.
WIPW140-pargreepinktmir-1
A simple embroidery has to be worked in between the pleats and five mirrors have to stitched on the neck. Planning to start the work tomorrow. A simple embroidery is required at this time.
I moved on to lighter green thread on this pink silk cotton fabric for the violet matka silk tunic. the stitch is leaf stitch.

WIPW140-silkzardosi-5

A simple stitch with a long name is on SSS challenge this week. The working is on Queenie’s blog. These stitches were not part of TAST challenge. She has been posting stitches in alphabetical order till last week. It is interesting to learn new stitches and explore them. This week’s stitch is taken from Japanese embroidery book by Sadako Totsuka.
The sampler started with the basic stitch, the way it is worked by Queenie.in the second row, the buttonholed legs are shorter than the simple buttonhole legs. In the third sample the angled buttonholed legs are longer. The buttonholed legs are alternatively long and short in the fourth sample.
SSS.27.bubuholest-1
I wanted to combine this stitch with other buttonhole stitch variations. The first row is a combination with closed buttonhole, the second row was worked with the thinking that it is knotted buttonhole, but realized after checking it is actually sailor’s edge stitch with long legs, buttonholed stitches are combined with that. In the third row, this stitch combined with top knotted buttonhole. The fourth sample has crossed buttonhole with this stitch.
SSS.27.bubuholest-2
I started with the combination of this stitch with fancy bobbin stitch in the first row, knotted buttonhole stitch in the second row, sailor stitch in the third row and variation of up and down buttonhole stitch in the fourth row.
SSS.27.bubuholest-3
The first sample is with picots, it does not look that impressive, still it is a stitch combo. The straight line is whipped [or laced?] in the second sample. I was itching to buttonhole the straight line from the minute I read the name of the stitch, it is done in the last sample.
SSS.27.bubuholest-4
It was interesting to study and explore this stitch. The completed sampler.

SSS.27.buttonholed buttonhole stitch sampler

After the holidays, this week was fairly productive week on embroidery.
Stitch challenges
This week’s stitch on TAST challenge is woven trellis stitch, the samples of which were worked twice on earlier TAST challenges. The post linking them was uploaded on FB group page.
Today I started working this week’s stitch on SSS challenge. The details of the samples will be posted after the sampler is completed. conclusion- favourite stitch – buttonhole.
Projects
The work on green benarasi georgette was completed. The details will be posted soon.
Two kutchwork borders in red thread were worked on this cream neck pattern. It is ready to go to the tailor.
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After working another chain stitch outline in pink thread, I started to work the stem stitches in green.
WIPW139-msilkzardosi-4
This week’s fascination was rilli applique technique on the net. When the professionals do the work it looks easy, but it needs to be practiced.
We have a few regions in India- Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Orissa, Rajasthan, Gujarat- where this technique is used. In Uttarpradesh and Bihar it is used on clothing on light colours. In Rajasthan this is used on bridal dresses with metallic ribbons, in Orissa it is worked on home décor, including umbrellas and hall decorations, it gives a totally different look. The colours are bright and eye catching. In Gujarat it used with other embroidery techniques.

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