December 2013


The colour of this georgette fabric is a mixture of maroon and dark blue. Because of this it looks like violet. But the colour varies under different lights. It  has zari dots all over. I felt, to embellish this tunic, metallic gold was vital. Instead of working with it, the yoke fabric was itself gold colour satin fabric.
 

maroon blue georgette tunic

maroon blue georgette tunic

A simple traditional Indian pattern was drawn for this embroidery.
 

maroon blue georgette tunic-yoke

maroon blue georgette tunic-yoke

The yoke pattern-
 

maroon blue georgette tunic-yoke pattern

maroon blue georgette tunic-yoke pattern

The sleeves-
 

maroon blue georgette tunic-sleeves

maroon blue georgette tunic-sleeves

The simple pattern of scallops-
 

maroon blue georgette tunic-sleeve pattern

maroon blue georgette tunic-sleeve pattern

On reflection, I could have refrained from using the dark pink beads. They are too big for this work with silk threads. They are really popping out of the embroidery. It was done in the last leg, when I was keen to finish the work, rather than search for other suitable embellishments. This tunic being quite festive looking, maybe I can wear a net dupatta [scarf] to subdue the effect.  And I learnt a lesson.

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The chikan work embroidery is common in Indian state of Uttarpradesh. The embroidery is predominantly shadow work, but other stitches are also used. The chikan work is done on sarees, tunics, salwar suits, dupattas … .Pastel colours and white fabrics in soft cotton, chiffon, silk, crepe are commonly used for this work.
I wanted to explore some simple stitches in chikan work on this tunic. The fabric was light blue soft cotton. Pistil stitch was the main stitch, other stitches were-back stitch, herringbone filling [shadow work], berry stitch.

blue green chikan work tunic

blue green chikan work tunic

The colours were a shade of green I think it is called teal, but I am not sure. The centre detail-

blue green chikan work tunic-=centre

blue green chikan work tunic-=centre

The tailor marked the front for me to trace the pattern. This tunic has a high neck design

blue green chikan work tunic-neck

blue green chikan work tunic-neck

The motif details-

blue green chikan work tunic-  motif detail

blue green chikan work tunic- motif detail

The motif pattern, this can be used as a single motif too.

blue green chikan work tunic- motif

blue green chikan work tunic- motif

The full embroidery pattern

blue green chikan work tunic- pattern

blue green chikan work tunic- pattern

The shop bought chikan work tunic has more embroidery, but I preferred this minimal work. Earlier I had done this chikan work on tunics they are here

I wanted mix and match two different fabrics on a tunic. The tunic was orange and yellow woven ikat fabric, to match with this a block printed cotton fabric was chosen. After this step, there was no design idea forthcoming to do what I wanted. An idea in the form of plain maroon fabric, which could be used for the borders and the salwar [Indian pants] came into mind.
Then I drew a very simple geometrical pattern for the borders and yoke on a graph paper and traced them on to the maroon fabric. I did not have look far for the colours  for embroidery, they were taken from the two tunic fabrics. A light beige colour thread was added to give contrast.
The tunic-

orange, yellow ikat printed sleeves-tunic

orange, yellow ikat printed sleeves-tunic

The stitches used were- fly stitch, herringbone filling, straight stitches and back stitch. The yoke-

orange yellow, ikat printed sleeves- yoke

orange yellow, ikat printed sleeves- yoke

The tailor made a good job of sewing everything together. The sleeve with the embroidered border.

orange yellow ikat printed sleeves-sleeves

orange yellow ikat printed sleeves-sleeves

The tunic being cotton is very comfortable to wear during summer, which is 9 months in a year!
The printed fabric looks dull compared to the ikat. That was the reason why this tunic needed an embroidery on maroon fabric. Another way of enhancing this tunic would be to embroider over the block prints. The idea is late for this tunic, maybe I‘ll use this for another fabric.

I have not been regular with my posts this year. Especially about my embroidered tunics.
I have a fondness for handloom cotton fabrics from India. And I work ethnic Indian embroidery on them. Sometimes I also get inspired and work on a particular idea. This is one such project.
I had a maroon cotton fabric with beige stripes. Being a sucker for traditional silk combinations, a black fabric was chosen for embroidery. Novelty antique gold beads and sequins were used for embellishments. Maroon and beige colour threads were used for embroidery.
The tunic-

maroon and black tunic

maroon and black tunic

The simple geometrical shapes were worked in back stitch with red thread, and the lines were worked in chain stitch with beige thread. Cotton skeins were used for the embroidery. The yoke-

maroon and black-yoke

maroon and black-yoke

The yoke pattern-

maroon and black-yoke pattern

maroon and black-yoke pattern

The sleeves had additional motif border in the centre which was worked with variegated thread.

maroon andblacksleeve and yoke

maroon andblacksleeve and yoke

The sleeve pattern-

maroon and black-sleeve pattern

maroon and black-sleeve pattern

I wanted to do simple embroidery on this tunic, but this pattern can be used for more embellished work too. This pattern was just a small idea which I wanted to explore with beads. This pattern or embroidery cannot be categorized  into any type.

The working of this stitch is on SharonB ’s blog as a part of TAST 2013 stitch challenge. After working the crossed feather stitch ideas for this stitch were not many. The sampler-

45.93.plaited feather stitch sampler

45.93.plaited feather stitch sampler

1.The details on this part of the sampler- the basic plaited feather stitch is worked on the first row, the stitch was worked in two colours in the second row, the feather stitches on one side are shorter than the other side, making an open and closed plaited feather stitch variation in the third row.

45.93.plfeatherst-1

45.93.plfeatherst-1

2.Plaited feather stitch is laced with blue thread in three ways in these samples.

45.93.plfeatherst-2

45.93.plfeatherst-2

3.The other stitches combined with plaited feather stitch in these rows are – cross stitch, fly stitch, chain stitch and pistil stitch.

45.plfeatherst-3

45.plfeatherst-3

I liked this stitch because of the braided effect and the width of the stitch. It will be lovely to work borders with this stitch.

The second part of the sampler-

44.92.crossed feathr st- sampler2

44.92.crossed feathr st- sampler2

I started with combining other stitches with crossed feather stitch. Running and pistil stitches are worked with this stitch in the first row. The stitch was whipped on both sides in the second row and laced on one side in the third row.

44.92.crfeatherst-3

44.92.crfeatherst-3

4.A satin ribbon was couched with this stitch worked in two colours in the first row. I liked working this sample. Straight stitches were worked in the middle of crossed feather stitch in the second row. Fly stitches and beads are worked with this stitch on the last row.

44.92.crfeatherst-4

44.92.crfeatherst-4

This stitch would be useful to work wide borders and couching. The sampler-

44.92.crossed feather stitch sampler

44.92.crossed feather stitch sampler

This is another feather stitch variation which makes a heavy border which was part of TAST 2013 Challenge by SharonB. The working is on her blog.

44.92.crossed feather st-sampler1

44.92.crossed feather st-sampler1

The sampler started with the basic crossed feather stitch in the first row, the stitch worked in two colours in the second row, and the broad version of straight feather stitch crossed with narrow version of the same in the third row.

44.92.crfeatherst-2

44.92.crfeatherst-2

The longer feather stitches are crossed with short feather stitches in the first row, the feather stitch with different heights on one side is crossed with another feather stitch in the second row.

44.92.crfeatherst-2

44.92.crfeatherst-2

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