October 2013


Picots made of bullion knots over buttonhole stitch is this week’s stitch on TAST 2013 challenge by SharonB. The method of working this stitch is given on her blog. it needs some practice to familiarize with this stitch. Next week’s stitch is another way of working this same stitch. I have worked these picots over some variations of buttonhole stitches.

39.87.buttonhole picot bullion-sampler1

39.87.buttonhole picot bullion-sampler1

1.Picots worked over three variations of buttonhole stitches.

39.87.bupicotb-1

39.87.bupicotb-1

2. The buttonhole stitches are worked at two heights, and picots are worked over the higher buttonholes stitches in the first row. Three stitches are worked on higher level and picots are worked over the lower buttonhole stitches in the second row. Picots are worked over closed buttonhole stitches in the third row.

39.87.bupicotb-2

39.87.bupicotb-2

3. Two rows are buttonhole stitches are worked one over the other and picots are worked on the top row in the first sample. Picots are worked on bullion buttonhole stitch in the second sample. Picots are worked on a crossed butthole variation in the third sample.

39.87.bupicotbu-3

39.87.bupicotbu-3

Along with working the variations of two rows of this stitch together, a few more samples were added to this sampler.

36.84.spiked knotted cable chain st-sampler2

36.84.spiked knotted cable chain st-sampler2

4. Two rows of spiked knotted cable chain stitches are worked together in these samples, the third sample is laced with rimjim thread.

36.84.spkncachain-4

36.84.spkncachain-4

5. A single line of this stitch is laced with rimjim in the first row. The oyster part of this stitch is extended with a small straight stitch in the second row. The buttonhole stitches are worked at an angle in the third row.

36.84.spkncachain-5

36.84.spkncachain-5

6. Basque stitches are incorporated into this stitch in the first row. Detached chain stitches and cretan stitch are worked with this stitch in the last two rows.

34.86.spkncachain-6

34.86.spkncachain-6

This stitch looks difficult, but actually is quite easy. The polyester thread which was used for this sampler also co-operated in the process. I liked this stitch. The sampler-

36.84.spiked knotted cable chain sampler

36.84.spiked knotted cable chain sampler

Very interesting stitch, the working of which is available on SharonB’s blog. It has three stitches combined-twisted chain, oyster and buttonhole. The buttonhole stitch helps the wrapping oyster stitch stay in place.

After learning this stitch the practice was done on the sampler-

36.84.spiked knotted cable chain st-sampler1

36.84.spiked knotted cable chain st-sampler1

1.The first row was worked looking at SharonB’s pictures. From the second row, I worked this stitch the other way, which was somehow easier for me. The spikes are of varying heights in the second row. The stitches are worked as close as possible in the third row.

36.84.spkncablest-1

36.84.spkncablest-1

2. The stitches are worked slightly apart in the first row, and are worked far and near alternatively in the second row. The needle is inserted slightly away for the twisted chain and thus getting another spike in the bargain in the third row.

36.84.spkncablest-2

36.84.spkncablest-2

3.The buttonhole stitches are worked on both sides in the first row, a curved line was tried in the second row, and up and down buttonhole was worked on the third row.

36.84.spkncablest-3

36.84.spkncablest-3

Time to try two rows of this stitch[ too long to type!] worked together. Tomorrow?

A few more variations of this stitch were worked on the sampler today.

38.86.turkman st sampler2

38.86.turkman st sampler2

4.I started working long turkman stitches in the first row, then tried to work the long and short version in the second row and pathetically failed! To compensate for that I tried twisting the bottom feather stitches in the third row – this row soothed me a bit.

38.86.turkst-4

38.86.turkst-4

5.Two step closed feather stitches are worked on the bottom and basic closed feather stitch  was worked on the top on the first row. Gaining some confidence, I worked two step feather stitches on top and bottom in the second row. The third row has up and down feather stitches worked at the bottom.

38.86.turkst-5

38.86.turkst-5

6.Detached chain stitches are worked over the middle thread in the first row. Arrowhead stitches and pistil stitches are worked over turkman stitch in the second row. Alternate tiurkman stitches are tied down in the last row.

38.86.turkst-6

38.86.turkst-6

This is an easy stitch to work, I like the braided look when the stitches are worked closely. The stitch sampler was completed after working these samples.

38.86.turkman stitch sampler

38.86.turkman stitch sampler

This week’s stitch on the TAST 2013 challenge by SharonB is turkman stitch or closed feather stitch. No doubt, this is a simple stitch to work. The stitch samples are worked on gray fabric with holes.
The sampler till now-

38.86.turkman st sampler1

38.86.turkman st sampler1

1.The basic turkman stitch is worked in the first row, followed by a wider version of this stitch. I tried working the stitches very closely to get a braid effect in the third row, not neat but not bad either, I would say.

38.86.turkst-1

38.86.turkst-1

2.The wider version and the narrow version are worked alternatively in the first row. Both edges are whipped in the second row, the inner stitch alone is whipped in the third row.

38.86.turkst-2

38.86.turkst-2

3. the turkman stitch is laced with the lacing thread twisted decoratively outside the stitch in the first row, and lacing thread goes up and down once [like weave] in each stitch in the second row, in the third row, I tried to change the direction of the inner thread by alternatively changing the journey[top first, then bottom, bottom first and then the top]. Explaining this is difficult, working it is not. Try this out.

38.86.turkst-3

38.86.turkst-3

We were on a trip these past three weeks, so I did not work any of the TAST stitches during that period. The working of this is on SharonB’s blog. I had worked this stitch during an earlier challenge with different threads. This time around. the stitches are all worked with perle cotton and cone threads[polyester].
Raised cup stitches are worked with other TAST stitches in this sampler. The sampler with other TAST stitches-

37.85.racupst-stitches

37.85.racupst-stitches

The sampler after working the raised cup stitches-

37.85.raised cup stitch sampler

37.85.raised cup stitch sampler

Raised cup stitches are worked with-feather stitch, stem and detached chain stitches, fly stitches and woven detached chain stitches.

37.85.racupst-1

37.85.racupst-1

Raised cup stitches worked on – three rows of herringbone stitches, buttonhole variation, Vandyke stitch, wrapped coral  and buttonhole wheel

37.85.racupst-2

37.85.racupst-2

These raised cup motifs are worked with- pistil stitches, Italian border stitch, buttonholed bullion and french knots.

37.85.racupst-3

37.85.racupst-3

A great stitch for decorative purposes, I like this stitch.

The red crepe stole which has very large printed paisleys with decorative borders.

man crepe stole

man crepe stole

The neckline was part of the embroidery pattern for the centre. The florals had spaces to work the red stones. Silk threads red metallic threads were used for the embroidery. Cotton skeins were used to attach the stones and zardosi beads.

mantunic-pat

mantunic-pat

The embroidered yoke-
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The embroidery was worked on yellow silk cotton fabric. These embroidered pieces were later attached to the tunic[by the tailor, ofcourse!]. the completed tunic with the stole

mango tunic with stloe

mango tunic with stloe

I had this crepe stole with traditional Indian design printed all over it. It has many colours, but red was the background colour. It suited well with t-shirts, plain tunics.
Last year I saw this chiffon fabric. It had both orange and yellow shades on it. Because it looks like a well ripened mango, it is often called mango colour. These kind of colour combinations are quite common on silks[kanjeevaram].the most popular are-
Peacock neck[blue/green],tender mango leaf[maroon and green], fenugreek[golden yellow/red],onion[dark pink/cream],berry[nagapazham-violet /brown].
From this point of view, this tunic colour is mango.
A packet of red stones also was waiting to be used. A traditional Indian pattern was drawn for the yoke. A simple border, where these stones could be incorporated was drawn for the sleeves.
The pattern for sleeves-

mantunic-slpat

mantunic-slpat

The embroidery was worked with red silk and metallic threads.

man tunic-sleeves

man tunic-sleeves

The embroidery was worked on cotton fabric. The ideal fabrics for chikan embroidery –transparent cottons, chiffon, crepe. But the fabric I worked was not transparent. So technically it was just an use of chikan embroidery on the tunic and not the authentic chikan work.
The pattern used for the embroidery in the centre-

beige pink chikan centre  pat

beige pink chikan centre pat

The embroidery-

beige pink chikan centre emb

beige pink chikan centre emb

The tunic

beige pink chikan tunic

beige pink chikan tunic

There are many stitches used in Indian ethnic chikan embroidery.
Shadow work [herringbone worked on the reverse]is the most common.
Eyelet stitches are also widely used. Sometimes herringbone, running stitches are also used.
When I started doing embroidery, to learn a stitch, a design would be drawn with that stitch in mind. I’ll learn and practice that embroidery through that project. They were generally on tunics. In this project, raised herringbone was practiced on this tunic.
The other stitches used were back stitch , feather stitch and fly stitch. Separate patterns were drawn for sleeves, corners and centre. The sleeves pattern-

beige pink chikan sleeve pat

beige pink chikan sleeve pat

Embroidery on sleeve

beige pink chikan sleeve emb

beige pink chikan sleeve emb

Pattern for the corners –

beige pink chikan corner pat

beige pink chikan corner pat

Embroidery on the corners. The basic flower was the same for all patterns, the difference was only on the placements, depending on how they were used –either for corner or sleeve or centre.

beige pink chikan corner emb

beige pink chikan corner emb

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