Tunic with green phulkari yoke-2

The geometric motif for this tunic is worked in phulkari embroidery.
This embroidery is part of ethnic Indian embroideries.it is done in Punjab part of India and Pakistan too. In those parts the whole fabric is covered with embroidery. But I have chosen to work this embroidery on a square motif for this yoke space.
The motif with the second thread-yellow-

greephulyk-2

Combination of green and brown thread-

greephulyk-3

Two strands of skeins are used for this embroidery.

 

Tunic with green phulkari yoke-1

This tunic fabric is block printed with florals in cotton. This type  of light cottons are ideal for hot climates, and suitable for casual wear, with these prints. the base colour of this tunic is yellow/brown. The flowers were on shades of red.
The yoke fabric chosen for this tunic was green/yellow. Four repeating geometric motifs was the pattern to be embroidered. This is a small yoke. the colours used were, green, yellow, variegated red and white. The variegated red thread was silk and others were cotton skeins.
the motifs with medium green colour thread-

greephul-1

The embroidery stitches were, surface satin stitch, Rhodes stitch for the centre, and straight stitches.

 

Blue ikat tunic with dark pink yoke-1

This tunic is a medium blue, hand loom woven ikat fabric. I wanted to wear this as short top [kurthi] over jeans or trousers. And the idea was to use, an ethnic design which had bold geometric elements. The tunic fabric

blue ikat-fabric

The yoke fabric was in dark pink.

blue ikat-yoke frabic

An Mexican,[ or early Indian] pattern was chosen for embroidery. Then this was drawn to suit my requirements. With the yoke fabric being dark, I did not use bold colours for embroidery.
The first thread colour was dark pink, this shape will be outlined later with cream colour thread. The filling of shapes were done with surface satin stitches[ or phulkari as in ethnic Indian embroidery].

bl&maj-1

The working of this ethnic pattern will be continued on my next post.

 

Cream phulkari yoke on maroon tunic-1

This handloom cotton in maroon is block printed with cream motifs.
The pattern on the fabric itself was fine to be worn without any embellishments.
The fabric-

maroon tunic fabric

Then I had the idea of working a narrow yoke with simple phulkari motif.
Three repeating geometrical motifs were drawn on graph paper,
if any body is interested in the pattern, I can upload it after detailing the yoke.
Four colours were chosen for the embroidery from the hand blocked motifs,
the yoke with the first colour, golden yellow.

cream yoke on maroon tunic WIP-1

More details on my next post.

 

Beige and green tunic-4

The yoke and sleeves of this tunic are completed. Small sequins and beads are stitched to the centre of the yoke to give the effect of buttons.
The completed yoke and sleeves-

beige and green tunic-yoke 4

The embroidered pieces are sewn to the tunic. It now looks like this-

beige and green tunicthe closeup- beige&green tunic closeup

Beige and green tunic-3

The beige thread was first worked for the central pattern on the yoke. Then the same was used for the zigzag pattern on the outline and sleeves.
The details of the embroidery on borders -
The outlines were done in back stitch in green and yellow. The round patterns were done in satin stitch[ fearing the surface satin might alter the small rounds into ablong shapes] in majenta thread. small fly stitches were done in the valley in light green thread.
Now the zigzag pattern was worked in phulkari- surface satin stitch.

beige &green tunic -3 yoke

 

The next post on the completed yoke and tunic.

 

Beige& green tunic-2

In this second post, the progress of the phulkari patterns on the brown yoke-
I have done the left over triangles in light green and beige.
The phulkari looks like satin stitch, but it is only surface satin. Geometrical shapes are worked in surface satin stitches. The patterns are spread over a large area, for- bedspreads, cushions, dupattas, tunics, to name a few.
I saw a film’Rab ne banaya jodi’ where the heroine wore fully embroidered phulkari dupattas most of the time, especially during song sequences.
The yoke so far-

beige & green tunic -2 yoke

The beige colour worked on the zigzag border design , on my next post.

 

Beige and green tunic-1

This beige fabric is printed with traditional Indian pattern.I loved the colour , print and the combination.

beige&green tunic fabric

Generally I would have chosen a green fabric for yoke , but this time it was brown [with maroon mixed up some where]
Pattern- This was a simple phulkari border used for yoke and sleeves.
Colours- Though beige and green with traces of golden yellow would have been perfect, I found the green did not show well in the brown fabric, I kept the beige, yellow and added majenta to enhance the effect.
I started with some green outlines, worked the circles in majenta, then the some triangles in yellow[ the yellow from the tunic fabric did not go well on this brown too].
the yoke-

B>unic- yoke 1

The progress on the next post.

 

Orange & white tunic-1

Decorative border-

This decorative seam is part of a sleeve border for the white tunic.I made two border patterns, one in orange with just sequins and this one in golden yellow.

The edging stitch is back stitch, with variegated thread[red/brown]
The square filling stitch is surface satin in orange, green& variegated thread.

decorative border in yellow-1

These squares are outlined with double running stitch.

Decorative border in yellow-2

Sequins and beads are added in between the squares

decorative border in yellow-completed

This part is completed for the sleeves and border for the yoke,
the yoke details on next post.

In this decorative border, I was trying to work on those stitches and colours which will not be tedious to do, and at the same time will not compromise the effect.
Stitches were well chosen, but colours played their part in extending the time.

 

Red and grey tunic

I had a grey dupatta[shawl] with red& white ikat border.To make it a salwar[Indian tunic] set,I bought a plain red handloom cotton fabric.

The pattern chosen was simple phulkari[suface satin ] border for neck&sleeves. I also found some novelty silver beads for the neckline[now they are easily available, earlier they were quite scarce,I was excited to acquire them.
For the neck-
3 lines of zigzag coral st[I was learning this stitch] and then two geometrical patterns were repeated throughout the neckline,then I attached these novelty silver beads.two shades of grey and off white colour threads were used.

grey in red tunic

For the sleeves-
Again a simple pattern, which matched the neck pattern,made with holbein [double running] stitch, and back stitch.

red&grey sleeves

Generally not too fond of grey colour,but this dupatta caught my eye, and with the matching beads, Very satisfying.