geometrical pattern


The pattern for yoke was similar to the sleeves, except for the dark pink details.

B&B kan-pattern yoke

B&B kan-pattern yoke

Filling done on part of the squares.

B&B kan-y1

B&B kan-y1

Triangles on the border worked with the same blue thread.

B&B kan -y2

B&B kan -y2

After working with light blue thread and dull gold thread. The centre space is for the printed light blue fabric.

B&B kan-y3

B&B kan-y3

The crosses done with dull gold cotton skein were worked with running stitch filling in dark pink thread.

B&B kan-s4

B&B kan-s4

The medium shade blue thread was used for lining the oval shapes over the dark pink circles. These  were worked in stem stitch. light blue thread was worked on other part of the triangles on the squares and the border lines.

B&B kan-s5

B&B kan-s5

Tiny antique beads were added inside the oval shapes. The picture is out of focus here.

B&B kan -s6

B&B kan -s6

After completing the embroidery on the sleeves, they were placed on the printed light blue fabric which will the border the sleeves.

B&B kan -s7

B&B kan -s7

I was inspired by tunics embellished by simple Kantha embroidery of Bengal. This embroidery was done mainly on sleeves and front of the tunic. The chosen tunic fabric was dark blue striped Mangalagiri handloom cotton. I had this block printed light blue fabric, which I used for the sleeve border and yoke.
The sleeves-
A geometrical border was drawn on graph sheet.

B&B kan-sleeve pattern

B&B kan-sleeve pattern

The used two strands of cotton skeins in two shades of blue, gold and dark pink. Kantha embroidery is running stitch worked on various patterns. The work looks like weave at some places. Starting with medium blue,

B&B kan-s-1

B&B kan-s-1

The triangles which form the square are also worked with this blue-

B&B kan-s2

B&B kan-s2

Then moved on to golden colour skein

B&B kan-s3

B&B kan-s3

The kasuti yoke was completed after working  with light green thread.

brks-4

brks-4

It took six hours to work this yoke. it was completed in three days. The tailor had given me the centre piece to work this embroidery. He also attached a green lace to the sleeves. The tunic-

brks-t1

brks-t1

The yoke-

brks-t2

brks-t2

The pattern -

brks-pattern

brks-pattern

This tunic was inspired by chikan work tunics which are widely available in India. They come in pastel colours with chikan work done in the same colour of the fabric or more commonly in white. I wanted explore the effect of kasuti embroidery on a tunic. I am happy to see people interested in this work.
I wear this tunic with a printed[in green, white and brown] readymade Patiala salwar.

This yoke is embroidered with double running stitch . this pattern is made of three broders. The outer border is also worked with medium green, leaving space for light green.

brks-2

brks-2

Now working with light pink and golden yellow, the progress on the yoke-

brks-3

brks-3

This plain dark brown tunic was a soft cotton fabric. idael for hot climates. I wanted to do some embroidery on the tunic fabric itself. For this a pattern was drawn for yoke. this was based on kasauti embroidery from Karnataka, a state in India.

In Kasauti or kassoti embroidery,The geometrical patterns are worked with double running stitch. This way, the right and the wrong side look the same, ideal for sarees, dupattas, scarfs, stoles. Where the wrong side of the fabric is also visible while draping. They are also worked on even weave fabric s which are used as furnishings. To make this method possible, care is taken at the level of drawing the patterns .
This yoke pattern is one such kasauti pattern. Golden yellow,,two shades of pink and green were the colours used for this embroidery. I started with medium pink thread and moved on to medium green thread.

brks-1

brks-1

My pc is having some problem, so couldn’t continue with the details of this yoke   yesterday.
After filling the centre with green thread, back stitches on the border were worked in white thread.

orblman-4

orblman-4

I am still on the orange spree, now it is orange pearl beads which were added in between the border motifs.

orblman-5

orblman-5

The completed yoke was placed over the tunic fabric . the zari border is not seen here.

orblman-6

orblman-6

The usual procedure of the tailor doing his job well , resulted in the tunic looking like this.

orblman-tunic1

orblman-tunic1

Close up

orblman-tunic2

orblman-tunic2

I wanted to see the effect of using the same colours for yoke and the tunic fabric.
This was taken to the next level, when orange silk thread was used to embroider the filling pattern. Though a shape was drawn, working on that outline was not turning out to be impressive, so instead of working back stitch , I worked straight stitch rays to fill this shape.

orman-2

orman-2

The next thread was green . Back stitches were worked over the pattern with this thread.

orblman-3

orblman-3

The border needs to be worked on.

The mangalagiri cotton material comes in plain, striped, checked with or without zari or thread borders. Most of my embroidery work are done on this fabric. Being handloom cotton, they are cooler on skin during hot months, which is about most of the time!
They also come in block prints. I found this bright orange fabric with block printed motifs and zari dots on them. They call it mica print. It also had a zari border, which was used around the sleeves, neck and embroidered yoke.

orblman-fabric

orblman-fabric

Brownish green plain mangalagiri fabric was chosen for salwar[Indian pants].
The embroidery was done on plain orange fabric. pearl beads were also added after working the embroidery . The pattern was black work, which I drew on a graph paper. It has a filling pattern in the centre and a border.

orblman-pattern

orblman-pattern

Silk threads were used embroider this yoke. maroon thread was used on the border.

orblman-1

orblman-1

The details of the embroidery on the yoke in red fabric. this is filling pattern as seen on the pattern drawing posted before. The embroidery was done in double running stitch with red and beige threads.

bl&red klm-5

The completed yokes placed together-

bl&red klm-6a

The yokes placed over the tunic fabric

bl&red klm-6b

The tunic and yokes were then given to the tailor for sewing, which he did very well with a neck pattern

bl&red klm-tunic

I have worn this tunic with blue salwar [Indian pants], and I like the border design better than the filling design . The antique sequins matched well with the yoke and the tunic.

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