neck pattern


This tunic fabric is  printed chanderi silk cotton in maroon colour.

maroon chanderi zardosi-fabric

maroon chanderi zardosi-fabric

I wanted to work zardosi embroidery with stones on a golden colour fabric. This tunic was ideal for my design. A neckline based on traditional Indian design with scope for zardosi beads, stones and novelty beads was drawn on paper.

maroon chanderi zardosi-pattern

maroon chanderi zardosi-pattern

After embroidering with silk [maroon] and metallic [gold] threads, embellishments – round and soft rectangular gold beads, white stones, gold zardosi beads- were added to this pattern on golden colour synthetic fabric. The detail-

maroon chanderi ardosi-embroidery detail

maroon chanderi ardosi-embroidery detail

I wear a maroon salwar and dupatta for this tunic. This tunic actually does not need any value addition at all. Still I enjoyed embroidering this piece, I like the subdued effect of the embellishments.

maroon chanderi zardosi-tunic

maroon chanderi zardosi-tunic

This tunic is made of two fabrics, pink /yellow striped fabric for the tunic front and back

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-tunic fabric

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-tunic fabric

And block printed and pin tuck fabric for the sleeves.

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-sleeves fabric

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-sleeves fabric

I have seen sewn tunics made of two or more fabrics, embellished with printed or embroidered borders. A kutch pattern made of small and broad borders was drawn on graph paper for this tunic.

pink yellow kutchwork printed  sleeves-pattern

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-pattern

The embroidery was worked with the colours of the block printed fabric. to enhance the yellow, colour gold beads were also worked into this design. The yoke-

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-yoke detail

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-yoke detail

With the body of the tunic in pink and yellow, I felt it is better to use green as the prominent colour. The pink/yellow fabric was mangalagiri cotton which had a zari border. The borders were also sewn to this tunic. The yoke and sleeve detail-

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-yoke sleeves detail

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-yoke sleeves detail

The tunic-

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-tunic

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-tunic

Salwar in the same yellow shade is worn with this tunic.

It is getting harder to name the tunics for reference. This tunic fabric is block printed cotton. I am not sure whether it is handloom or not.

majenta mirror work neck-fabric

majenta mirror work neck-fabric

I was inspired  seeing some neck patterns with simple shapes filled in one or many colours on some dresses.  To this idea,I also wanted to incorporate mirrors as another element. The result was this neck pattern.

majenta mirror work neck-pattern

majenta mirror work neck-pattern

The embroidery was done on black. Cotton strand, silk and metallic threads of same colour was used for embroidery and black thread was used to fix the mirrors. I had one spool of metallic thread of this colour which I started to use, then realized that the spool had given an illusion of lengthy thread. This created an anxiety and doubt of finishing this project with that thread. But it was just sufficient and it also taught me lesson about that particular style of threads. The tunic

majenta mirror work neck-tunic

majenta mirror work neck-tunic

The neck detail

majenta mirror work neck-detail

majenta mirror work neck-detail

I like this tunic.

The tunic fabric is kalamkari block printed handloom cotton.

black kalamkari with mirrors-fabric

black kalamkari with mirrors-fabric

I loved the colour and print of the fabric so much that, I was not planning to do any embellishment on it. When an idea for a broad neck came into mind, I drew a pattern with two borders and one with mirrors. The embroidery was done on black cloth, with the round mirrors worked in black. Red colour was also brought into this work, along with medium blue and cream. The tunic-

black kalamkari with mirrors tunic

black kalamkari with mirrors tunic

Border for sleeves and centre was taken from another tunic fabric. The detail picture-

black kalamkari with mirrors-detail

black kalamkari with mirrors-detail

The fillings were worked with herringbone stitches, outlines were worked with back and chain stitches. I used three strands of cotton skeins. And the spaces between the mirrors were worked in fly stitches.
The tunic fabric is light weight cotton, feels so cool in summer. After giving it to the tailor, I was concerned that the weight of the mirrors might sag the neck in the front. Thank God, It doesn’t. Surprisingly a salwar of the same blue on the tunic was also available to be worn with this top.

Before working the mirrors and the stones, the outlines have to be dealt with. The outline for the stones were worked in back stitch.

mirrors and stones on black/blue tunic-wip2

mirrors and stones on black/blue tunic-wip2

After working the chain stitch outline, the mirrors were stitched on to the motif.

mirrors and stones on black/blue -wip3

mirrors and stones on black/blue -wip3

Work in progress on the stones

mirrors and stones on black/blue-wip4

mirrors and stones on black/blue-wip4

The completion of the work on this motif

mirrors and stones on black/blue-completed motif

mirrors and stones on black/blue-completed motif

Generally I don’t instruct the tailor on neck patterns, so this was his choice. I placed the sleeves beside the motif, while taking this picture.

mirrors and stones on black /blue tunic

mirrors and stones on black /blue tunic

I wear a black salwar or blue leggings with this tunic.

The tunic fabric is a block printed soft cotton in green. The fabric-

mirrorwork on green tunic-fabric

mirrorwork on green tunic-fabric

I wanted a yoke fully done in mirror work. With the help of a stencil this yoke pattern was drawn.

mirrorwork on tunic -apttern

mirrorwork on tunic -apttern

The yoke was worked on plain green fabric. The main colour was half-white. The other colours used were dark majenta and medium blue. The mirrors were worked in all the three colours. Other than the mirror work stitches, chain stitch was used for outlining. The completed yoke before going to the tailor.

mirrorwork on green tunic-yoke

mirrorwork on green tunic-yoke

The sewn tunic

mirrorwork on green tunic

mirrorwork on green tunic

The detail of the yoke-

mirrorwork on green tunic-detail

mirrorwork on green tunic-detail

Generally the mirror work in Indian ethnic embroidery is done in bold colours. Though I have used a few colours, this cannot be called bright. The tunic fabric also has a border in same colour.
I have seen tunics embroidered on these borders. It is definitely easier than copying and embroidering a border. But using embroidery loop can be done only by attaching another fabric to the border.

I found this blog through Facebook group, where this person has been resourceful about the Indian ethnic Chikankari embroidery. Preeti has given the name of the stitches and explained clearly with pictures how to work them.it could be useful for the people who are interested. Worth checking it out.

http://pgarya.blogspot.in/search/label/chikankari%20stitch

When I go for fabric shopping, sometimes I tend to pick up some fabrics, which makes me wonder what was I thinking when I bought them.This is one such fabric. A dull brown block printed in mustard yellow.

Later an idea came to match it with a maroon fabric block printed with paisleys. Now I wanted to design a neck pattern with mirrors. These mirrors when worked with maroon thread would go well with my idea. Instead of drawing a new pattern, an old pattern with kutchwork and mirrors which was drawn earlier was chosen .
The tunic-

mustard maroon tunic

mustard maroon tunic

The embroidery detail-

musmaroon-embroidery detail

musmaroon-embroidery detail

Some things have to be said – a simple pattern would have been better. The pattern with curves and circular mirrors would also have been better. The fabric on which the embroidery was worked was dull as the tunic. The colours chosen did not add any brightness to the tunic. I could go on and on.
The sleeve fabric detail.

musmaroon sleeve detail

musmaroon sleeve detail

This maroon fabric looks better than the embroidery. The surprise was finding a salwar with the similar colour scheme.

musmaroon-salwar

musmaroon-salwar

The embroidery pattern.

musmaroon-pattern

musmaroon-pattern

The tunic when worn looks fine. The maroon  fabric definitely brightens the tunic.

The embroidery was worked on cotton fabric. The ideal fabrics for chikan embroidery –transparent cottons, chiffon, crepe. But the fabric I worked was not transparent. So technically it was just an use of chikan embroidery on the tunic and not the authentic chikan work.
The pattern used for the embroidery in the centre-

beige pink chikan centre  pat

beige pink chikan centre pat

The embroidery-

beige pink chikan centre emb

beige pink chikan centre emb

The tunic

beige pink chikan tunic

beige pink chikan tunic

The fabric of this tunic is handloom mangalagiri cotton. I think it is a black fabric with beige stripes, because black is prominent. There was another fabric with block printed borders. That fabric had black prints on beige with an orange in between. With idea of using this border fabric for sleeves, back neck, a small mirror work pattern was chosen for the front.
The pattern-

black beige orange mirror-pat

black beige orange mirror-pat

The embroidery was mainly worked with shades of orange with beige outlines. Two or three strands of cotton skeins were used . The embroidery stitches were- shisha stitch, herringbone stitch for filling the triangles, buttonhole and chain stitches for outlining.

black beige orange mirror=yoke

black beige orange mirror=yoke

The back neck with printed border.

black  beige orange mirror bneck

black beige orange mirror bneck

The tunic with borders and embroidery

black beige orane mirror tunic2

black beige orane mirror tunic2

It is easy to work with big round mirrors. Even simple designs can be brightened with these mirrors.

The medium pink printed fabric has zari border and some gold dots [they called it mica print]. For embroidery I used gold metallic thread and a cotton skein which closely resembled the gold metallic thread. The same cotton thread was used to work the sequins and beads.
Antique gold sequins, small and medium sized dull gold beads were used for embellishing this neck design.

pink yoke on brown tunic-yoke

pink yoke on brown tunic-yoke

A plain cotton fabric of the same base pink colour was bought for the salwar[Indian pants].the tunic

pink yoke on brown tunic

pink yoke on brown tunic

With the neckline like this, who needs any other neck accessory?  LOL!

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