holbein st or kasooti st


Embroidering the yoke for this violet[ Ikat weave] tunic in Lagartera inspired pattern was completed.
The centre was lined in back stitch in green.
The satin stitches are outlined in white thread.
The motifs around the satin squares are done in back/holbein st in violet and green colours with sequins in the centre.

green&violet tunic-yoke

The tunic with the yoke sewn on my next post.

On my earlier post, on kasouti embroidery, Nafisa wanted a information on how to draw kasouti pattern on fabric.

As I mentioned this particular pattern was taken from a pattern book.

It was not perfect, so I couldn’t use it as it is.With the basic pattern in mind I drew the pattern on graph , and made adjustments there to my satisfaction.

 Then the whole pattern was carbon copied on fabric[ the carbon colour varies according to the colour of the cloth]. the placement of the pattern on the cloth was also very important. measuring , calculating,marking, everything should be done before the tracing of the design.

The most important thing is  that,the original pattern should be as perfect as possible, just tracing from a book ,will not help here, cheap pattern books do not care for attention to detail. I use the books for general inspiration and work on customising the patterns.

 Nafisa,hope, this answered your enquiry.

 note-  the patterns are drawn on inch graph paper, and not on small centimetre graph paper. the squares on inch graph are  more condusive for  drawing patterns.

I found this kasouti pattern on local pattern book, and wanted to use on a tunic.
The picture taken is of the last piece of this tunic set.
I had a dullred striped mangalagiri with beige border.I used the pattern for neck and and front.It was a long project!
The embroidery was done in beige and cream.I completed the embroidery, and later found a plain grey duppata[scarf] to go with it I wonder why?  At that time, I was in the mode of accesserising all my tunics with scarves
I drew the same pattern on to the scarf, and started the embroidery.this was the time we shifted to Muscat.  I  left it behind .when I returned I wore the tunic without the
Scarf.
Two years later the scarf was still lying there, suddenly I felt like embroidering on the pattern, which I did for one motif
. In the mean time the tunic became a little tight for me, I decided to give it away. Meaning I don’t have the picture of the tunic.
Now the grey scarf is lying there, with one completed motif in that colour.combination,
The pattern-

kasuti pattern on grey

The completed  motif-

kasoti motif on grey

Waiting for some inspiration, to use this motif.

Decorative border-

This decorative seam is part of a sleeve border for the white tunic.I made two border patterns, one in orange with just sequins and this one in golden yellow.

The edging stitch is back stitch, with variegated thread[red/brown]
The square filling stitch is surface satin in orange, green& variegated thread.

decorative border in yellow-1

These squares are outlined with double running stitch.

Decorative border in yellow-2

Sequins and beads are added in between the squares

decorative border in yellow-completed

This part is completed for the sleeves and border for the yoke,
the yoke details on next post.

In this decorative border, I was trying to work on those stitches and colours which will not be tedious to do, and at the same time will not compromise the effect.
Stitches were well chosen, but colours played their part in extending the time.

Sometimes my husband allows me to try embroidery on his shirts. This is one such occasion.This is a store bought shirt in blue.
I chose a simple border repeat pattern for this.
The whole stitching is done in mono colour in back stitch.And further to personalize this shirt,I embroidered a”G”[rather lopsided] over the pocket.

Embroidered blue shirt

Maybe I am a little fond of Roman[ or is it greek?] patterns.

This is closeup of the embroidery.

Embroidered blue shirt- closeup

I had a grey dupatta[shawl] with red& white ikat border.To make it a salwar[Indian tunic] set,I bought a plain red handloom cotton fabric.

The pattern chosen was simple phulkari[suface satin ] border for neck&sleeves. I also found some novelty silver beads for the neckline[now they are easily available, earlier they were quite scarce,I was excited to acquire them.
For the neck-
3 lines of zigzag coral st[I was learning this stitch] and then two geometrical patterns were repeated throughout the neckline,then I attached these novelty silver beads.two shades of grey and off white colour threads were used.

grey in red tunic

For the sleeves-
Again a simple pattern, which matched the neck pattern,made with holbein [double running] stitch, and back stitch.

red&grey sleeves

Generally not too fond of grey colour,but this dupatta caught my eye, and with the matching beads, Very satisfying.



Iam finishing my darning sampler with this last few explorations.

pattern darning-8

pattern darning-8

The fish pattern is widely used in weaving ikat.I seem to have an Idea of this pattern darning now. I had an interesting time working on this month’s stitch explorer.Thanks sharon for introducing this embroidery to me and thanks for following my progress. the whole sampler in two parts-

pattern darning part-1
pattern darning part-1
pattern darning part-2

pattern darning part-2

Next stage of my exploration on pattern darning-

pattern darning-7

pattern darning-7

Iam still working on small motifs and borders.the two flower samplers  were not as I thought they would be.Iam working mainly with  pearl cotton.

Since I have been going on and on about the  Ikat weave  for this month’s stitch explorer,This is just a sample from the book-IKAT TEXTILES OF INDIA by Chelna Desai-

Ikat weave pattern

 

These patterns are bold and quite common in the northeastern part of India. Iam always fascinated by them, and waiting to use them for my embroidery ideas.This month pattern darning gave me a perfect excuse .I  try and use them for small scale- cross stitch patterns, kutch  work designs .Being a weave it is geometrical.The yarn is first dyed with the pattern and hand woven.

My sampler on pattern darning-

 pattern darning-3

pattern darning-3

Now movingon to  mono colour, I also learning from kasauti and phulkari embroideries.

I enjoyed doing this month’s stitch explorer-Assissi embroidery.

But ,Iam not fully satisfied because, I don’t feel I have explored this embroidery.I did not try new and bigger ways. Iam still new to these challenges,and just feeling my way now around .

I did not explore trellis stitch at all -Iam yet to learn.Somehow I keep postponing it.

My assissi picture frames all together-assissi007

I eagerly waiting  for the next challenge,and hoping I can explore and finish it on time.

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