kutchwork


I had two dupattas, a plain green in cotton and brown printed in chanderi cotton.

greebrokwyk-tunic fabric

greebrokwyk-tunic fabric

I was not using this green.

greebrokwyk-dupatta

greebrokwyk-dupatta

This piece is a stole and not technically a dupatta. when the green fabric is made into a tunic with a light brown embroidery piece, it might match this brown printed scarf. With this idea a small kutch work design was drawn on graph paper.

greebrkwyk-pattern

greebrkwyk-pattern

The embroidery was done with three colours.

greekwyk-embroidery

greekwyk-embroidery

The tunic after sewn by the tailor-

green brown tunic kutchwork yoke

green brown tunic kutchwork yoke

The tunic with dupatta-

greebrokwyk-tunic with dupatta

greebrokwyk-tunic with dupatta

With this lovely tunic, I need a salwar to go with this set, How about it?

This tunic is made of two fabrics, pink /yellow striped fabric for the tunic front and back

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-tunic fabric

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-tunic fabric

And block printed and pin tuck fabric for the sleeves.

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-sleeves fabric

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-sleeves fabric

I have seen sewn tunics made of two or more fabrics, embellished with printed or embroidered borders. A kutch pattern made of small and broad borders was drawn on graph paper for this tunic.

pink yellow kutchwork printed  sleeves-pattern

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-pattern

The embroidery was worked with the colours of the block printed fabric. to enhance the yellow, colour gold beads were also worked into this design. The yoke-

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-yoke detail

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-yoke detail

With the body of the tunic in pink and yellow, I felt it is better to use green as the prominent colour. The pink/yellow fabric was mangalagiri cotton which had a zari border. The borders were also sewn to this tunic. The yoke and sleeve detail-

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-yoke sleeves detail

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-yoke sleeves detail

The tunic-

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-tunic

pink yellow kutchwork printed sleeves-tunic

Salwar in the same yellow shade is worn with this tunic.

When I go for fabric shopping, sometimes I tend to pick up some fabrics, which makes me wonder what was I thinking when I bought them.This is one such fabric. A dull brown block printed in mustard yellow.

Later an idea came to match it with a maroon fabric block printed with paisleys. Now I wanted to design a neck pattern with mirrors. These mirrors when worked with maroon thread would go well with my idea. Instead of drawing a new pattern, an old pattern with kutchwork and mirrors which was drawn earlier was chosen .
The tunic-

mustard maroon tunic

mustard maroon tunic

The embroidery detail-

musmaroon-embroidery detail

musmaroon-embroidery detail

Some things have to be said – a simple pattern would have been better. The pattern with curves and circular mirrors would also have been better. The fabric on which the embroidery was worked was dull as the tunic. The colours chosen did not add any brightness to the tunic. I could go on and on.
The sleeve fabric detail.

musmaroon sleeve detail

musmaroon sleeve detail

This maroon fabric looks better than the embroidery. The surprise was finding a salwar with the similar colour scheme.

musmaroon-salwar

musmaroon-salwar

The embroidery pattern.

musmaroon-pattern

musmaroon-pattern

The tunic when worn looks fine. The maroon  fabric definitely brightens the tunic.

I wear a indigo blue salwar[readymade] to match this tunic.

kutch work on olive green and indigo tunic

kutch work on olive green and indigo tunic

The sleeves also have a lace border.

kutchwork on olive green and indigo tunic-sleeves

kutchwork on olive green and indigo tunic-sleeves

The yoke with indigo blue pipin.

kutchwork on olive green and indigo tunic-yoke

kutchwork on olive green and indigo tunic-yoke

Though the sleeves has a continuous kutchwork pattern, the yoke pattern can be worked with many colours, the yoke pattern can also be used for sleeves and shoulder panels. just suggesting some ideas.
I tried medium pink thread and light blue to work the embroidery. I would like to see other combinations, or maybe some better colours used on this olive green and indigo fabric.
If someone tries, please post the link on the comments.
The tunic fabric, since it is handloom and vegetable dyed, feels so comfortable on the skin [especially during hot humid summer] and the fabric also drapes well.

this is simple kutchwork pattern to work. try it and if it poses a problem, state them  on the comments. let me see if  can do anything about it.

Happy stitching.

The simplified version of the sleeve kutchwork work pattern was drawn for the centre.

oligreenindigokutch-pattern

oligreenindigokutch-pattern

The inside part of the three squares were worked first. The picture shows the working on the outer edges, this was done in one continuous journey for each element.

oligreenindigokutch-yokewip1

oligreenindigokutch-yokewip1

After completing the interlacing on the pattern-

oligreenindigokutch-yokewip2

oligreenindigokutch-yokewip2

The outline for the mirrors done in chain stitch.

oligreenindigokutch-yokewip3

oligreenindigokutch-yokewip3

The yoke after working the mirrors in light blue.

oligreenindigokutch-yoke

oligreenindigokutch-yoke

The sewn tunic on my next post.

Whenever a tunic made of two or more fabrics it inspires me to design something ethnic. With this purpose in mind two fabrics were chosen. They were block printed with vegetable dye.
Sometimes the colour of the dyes gives the print a name- kalamkari. Kalam means pen. kari means work. I have seen a kalamkari artisan drawing on a fabric.
The fabrics of this tunic was commercially block printed with the same vegetable dyes. The tunic was made of three panels, the centre in olive green and the sides in indigo. And the sleeves were also in olive green.
The kutchwork patterns were individually drawn for the centre and the sleeves with spaces for mirrors.
The detail of the sleeves.
The pattern-

oligreenindigokutch-sleevepattern

oligreenindigokutch-sleevepattern

The kutchwork was done in medium pink on dark blue fabric. The mirrors were worked in light blue thread. All the intersecting squares were worked in the first stage.

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip1

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip1

The outlining journey and interlacing

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip2

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip2

The olive green squares in chain stitch

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip3

oligreenindigokutchsleeveswip3

The completed sleeve panels

oligreenindigokuthcsleeves

oligreenindigokuthcsleeves

The details of the yoke and the tunic on my next post.

I had this plain handloom mangalagiri tunic in red. This was to be a short tunic or kurthi to be worn with black jeans. There was also a semi white fabric block printed with red borders. I had asked the tailor to mark the places for embroidery, namely, the sleeves and the neckline, which he did.
The embroidery pattern-

redmironredtunic-pattern

redmironredtunic-pattern

This pattern was the sleeves and a part of it was for the centre of the kurthi, below the neckline. The kutch work pattern and the mirrors were all worked with red thread. The mirrors inside the squares were outlined with black thread and the rest of the mirrors were outlined with peach silk thread. The centre-

redmironredtunic-centre

redmironredtunic-centre

The pictures were taken after the tunic was sewn by the tailor. The border on sleeves.

redmironredtunic-slborder

redmironredtunic-slborder

The embroidery on sleeves-

redmironredtunic-sleevesemb

redmironredtunic-sleevesemb

The tunic-

red mirrors on red tunic

red mirrors on red tunic

The fabric being handloom cotton was slightly transparent, the tailor wanted to attach a lining fabric for this, which I convinced him was not necessary. After a wash, it was no more transparent. There was a concern about the red running into the white borders which fortunately did not happen.

This brown striped tunic is handloom cotton. I liked the neck pattern on this tunic and was hoping for some simple idea to pop up to embroider. Then I bought a jeggings in pink. The idea of matching these two, led to a small kutchwork motif design.

br-pink-kw-pattern

br-pink-kw-pattern

This was traced on to the tunic below the neck pattern in the centre. Pink cotton skein was used to embroider  the kutch work motif  with pointed corners.  this motif can be used for woven kutch work too.

br-pink-kw-motif

br-pink-kw-motif

The tunic

brown tunic with pink kutchwork

brown tunic with pink kutchwork

I had seen contrasting printed fabric used as sleeve border and yoke on some tunics.  the tunic looked very elegant.They had used block printed fabrics for applique. The tunic fabrics were neutral in colours with minimal pattern on them.
I had a woven ikat cotton fabric in navy blue. Instead of using printed fabric, I chose fabric in light green[?]  to work a square kutchwork motif for the yoke.
The motif pattern -

blikkw-pattern

blikkw-pattern

Three strands of navy blue cotton skein was used for the motif, white and dull gold colour threads were used for the outlines.

blikkw-yoke

blikkw-yoke

The same yoke fabric was used for the sleeve borders too without the embroidery. The tunic-

blue ikat with kutchwork yoke

blue ikat with kutchwork yoke

I was not too happy with the fabric chosen for the yoke and sleeves. With this tunic fabric, there were many choices better than this. Maybe, I wanted to use this fabric for something and it ended up with this tunic. I wear this tunic with blue jeans.

Medium size mirrors were attached in the central spaces. Small antique gold beads went along with the colour scheme, so they were worked inside the kutchwork motifs.

crky-br-6

crky-br-6

Cream thread was used extensively for outlines and for embellishing the flowers with straight and fly stitches. Small mirrors were worked inside the flowers.

crky-br-7

crky-br-7

The completed tunic-

cream kutchwork on brown tunic-1

cream kutchwork on brown tunic-1

The neck detail

crky-br-tunic2

crky-br-tunic2

The tunic set-

cream kutchwork on brown tunic set

cream kutchwork on brown tunic set

The experiment of drawing freeform kutchwork was quite rewarding in this tunic. I may try this idea in future, but not immediately! The colour scheme with mirrors also enhanced this yoke pattern.

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