design


The tailor had given me the centre piece of the tunic fabric to work the yoke. I was eager to start the embroidery, but forgot to take picture after each thread. The threads used were cotton skeins and metallic threads in green and copper and gold. The yoke-

gregold-y1

gregold-y1

The yoke after completion with beads and sequins.

gregold-y2

gregold-y2

The pattern for the yoke-

gregold-ypattern

gregold-ypattern

The tunic-

gregold-t1

gregold-t1

Sleeves-

gregold-t2

gregold-t2

Yoke-

gregold-t3

gregold-t3

I wear this tunic with same yellow fabric of the borders. This kind of colour combination is typical of south Indian silk sarees. I love this tunic and enjoyed working on this.

Sequins and beads were added to the outer borders worked in chain stitches.

gregold-s7

gregold-s7

The borders are completed and were placed on the tunic .

gregold-sleeves

gregold-sleeves

The border pattern

gregold-spattern

gregold-spattern

The kasuti yoke was completed after working  with light green thread.

brks-4

brks-4

It took six hours to work this yoke. it was completed in three days. The tailor had given me the centre piece to work this embroidery. He also attached a green lace to the sleeves. The tunic-

brks-t1

brks-t1

The yoke-

brks-t2

brks-t2

The pattern -

brks-pattern

brks-pattern

This tunic was inspired by chikan work tunics which are widely available in India. They come in pastel colours with chikan work done in the same colour of the fabric or more commonly in white. I wanted explore the effect of kasuti embroidery on a tunic. I am happy to see people interested in this work.
I wear this tunic with a printed[in green, white and brown] readymade Patiala salwar.

I am posting the yoke and sleeve patterns for this tunic. The details of the embroidery are here.

lemon yellow -yokepattern1

lemon yellow -yokepattern1

Being a big pattern , this is another picture-

lemon yellow-yokepattern2

lemon yellow-yokepattern2

Sleeve pattern

lemon yellow-sleeve pattern

lemon yellow-sleeve pattern

The mangalagiri cotton material comes in plain, striped, checked with or without zari or thread borders. Most of my embroidery work are done on this fabric. Being handloom cotton, they are cooler on skin during hot months, which is about most of the time!
They also come in block prints. I found this bright orange fabric with block printed motifs and zari dots on them. They call it mica print. It also had a zari border, which was used around the sleeves, neck and embroidered yoke.

orblman-fabric

orblman-fabric

Brownish green plain mangalagiri fabric was chosen for salwar[Indian pants].
The embroidery was done on plain orange fabric. pearl beads were also added after working the embroidery . The pattern was black work, which I drew on a graph paper. It has a filling pattern in the centre and a border.

orblman-pattern

orblman-pattern

Silk threads were used embroider this yoke. maroon thread was used on the border.

orblman-1

orblman-1

After completing the stitch samplers of the TAST challenge, I am resuming the details of the embroidery designs on tunics . this tunic fabric is hand woven ikat fabric in blue.

blu&lemgren-fabric

blu&lemgren-fabric

I don’t have a separate picture of the sleeve fabric. It is pin-tucked fabric in lemon green/yellow block printed with blue floral motifs.
The idea was for a small yoke worked in another fabric of the same blue base.
A simple motif repeat pattern, with round outlines for mirrors.

bl&lengren-pattern

bl&lengren-pattern

The thread colours were picked from the tunic and sleeve fabrics. Anchor cotton skeins were used throughout this embroidery.
Herringbone stitches worked with lemon green thread-

bl&lemgren-01

bl&lemgren-01

More details on my next post.

The 46th week stitch of the TAST 2012 stitch challenge by SharonB is checkered chain or magic chain. Earlier in this challenge, when chain stitch was announced, I chose four types of chain stitches from the earlier TAST challenges. This stitch was one of them.
This time around , I thought of working this stitch on a design . five colour combinations were used to work this sampler. The first colour- combination was deep green and variegated green thread.

46.checchainst2-1

46.checchainst2-1

The second combination was deep green and mustard yellow thread.

46.checchainst-2

46.checchainst-2

This part was violet and deep pink combination-

46.checchainst2-3

46.checchainst2-3

The next combination was violet and light majenta combination.

46.checchainst2-4

46.checchainst2-4

The last combination was medium blue and majenta combination.

46.checkered chainst2-designsamplera

46.checkered chainst2-designsamplera

A different view

46.checkered chain st2-designsamplerb

46.checkered chain st2-designsamplerb

This is for anyone interested in this pattern.

46.checchain st2-pattern

46.checchain st2-pattern

In India we get this kind of dupattas [long stoles] block printed on soft cotton fabric. I bought one such dupatta –

brw&orange- dupatta

The dupatta was on display on the shop, along with plain cream salwar set[tunic]. It was quite attractive. I took the dupatta alone and thought of embroidering a small border around the neck on a cream tunic. later thought that this combination was too common and discarded it and bought a plain brown[?] mangalagiri cotton.

brw&orange-tunic fabric

The idea of small border around the neckline remained. The neck pattern with kutch motif evolved-

brw&orange-pattern

The embroidery on my next post…

It looks as if this this stitch challenge will continue next year also. I am looking forward to learn and explore more stitches.
This week’s stitch is needle woven picot leaf stitch on the TAST 2012 challenge by SharonB.
We had holidays last week, which we spent by visiting some countries in eastern Europe. I did not work last week’s buttonhole wheel cup stitch.
This stitch is a new one for me. I am still familiarizing myself with this stitch. Going around the needle , weaving and maintaining the thread tension will require lots of practice. Since no ideas to explore this stitch seems forthcoming, the trials of this stitch will be made with other stitches. The stitch trials have progressed so far-

44.needl woven picot leaf st-sampler1

Details-
1. This stitch is worked with half chevron stitch.

44.neewpist-1

2. three needlewoven picots with up and down buttonhole stitch.

44.neewpist-2

3.woven picots with feather stitch.

44.neewpist-3

4.needle woven picots are worked with herringbone stitch.

44.neewpist-4

5. three needle woven picots on feather stitch variation.

44.neewpist-5

6. needle woven picots in two colours over wheatear stitch motif and leaves and flower[!] worked in this stitch over butterfly chain stitch.

44.neewpi st-6

The embroidery on borders for this tunic are done on printed orange fabric. the same zigzag lines were guide lines for different threads and stitches. the first treatment was two rows of running stitch, the next one was straight stitch filling in two colours. the first colour was dark orange. It is not seen clearly here, though-

ora&crm-2

The same straight stitch filling on yellow thread. This looks much better!

ora&crm-4

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